Hey guys. I went to the track for the first time this summer, and was kind of disapointed. It was HOT, and my car was heating up quick. my fastest 1/4 was 13.6sec @ 104.14mph w/ 2.31 60' time. The launch is killing me. I can't rev it past 1,300rpm without spinning the tires(even when i'm standing on the brake as hard as I can) The car doesn't pull hard till it's above 3000rpm.

How much would a 2800rpm stall converter and a shiftkit help my times??? I don't want to spend $350 on a t/c when I plan on getting a T56 in 6 months. How much would the 6speed help???
I was finishing the 1/4 at around 4000 rpm in third gear w/3.23 rear. How much would gears help???

 

A manual may be worth a 1 or 2 tenths off of your time. The converter would probably nock it down about the same amount.
350 is probably the best you will find for the converter.

 

Come on guys... most of you have raced much more than me. What can i do to lower my times more? On a nicer day last summer I got 13.2. I want to hit 12's in a few weeks when I go back. Help please!

 

You could try new rear lower control arms and a spohn adj. torque arm. I was running 2.0=2.2 60' times with my 305HO with stock control arms/torque arm, 5spd and 3.73 gears.

I think 3.73 gears would help you but I don't know how to figure how much it would help you.

 

Get some 4.10 gears. Lots of people say that they still knock down good mpg with t56 and 4.10s.

Hot weather will add about .2 - .3 secs as well.

A 2800 stall conv will stall about 2200-2500 at most. During good weather I hit a 2.0 60 with my car.

 

If you're spinning the tires now with a stock converter,
a high stall will just spin more until you get some tires with some traction. All the traction devices are torque reactive so you need the inital bite to make them work.

BFG drag radials work good, So do MickeyThompson ET streets.

This will reduce your 60' times to around 1.95/1.98 sec which will come right off your et's too. Then you can get a converter
and get a good gain from the higher availible torque at launch that a high stall allows. A 9.5" race lockup converter should trim off another .4 sec. But remember without initial traction you'll
gain nothing. If your car starts to pull at 3000, you want a 3500
stall converter not a 2800.

 

Sorry guys...you misunderstood me. The tires are spinning when I'm doing the brakestand.(power braking by accident) I have good sfc's, lower controll arms, torque arm, panhard rod and dunlop sp sport 5000 tires. There is no spin on the launch. The engine just bogs till it gets up to 3000 rpm, because all my mods add mid-high rpm power, and give it ****ty low end. It need brakes in back, which I am doing soon, so that shuold help some. I also have a shift kit in the garage waiting to go in.

 

What are you doing for engine management would be my first question? With your mods and a good engine mgmt. system you should be getting in the 12s assuming you can hook up (which obviously you haven't been). I was knockin off consistent 1.72 60 ft. times with a totally stock suspension running BFG DRs at 15 PSI.

 

I have a custom fastchip and accel ignition. Like i said though...the problem is not traction. The car was running over 200* at each run, I would even let it cool down to 140 or so before staging. The chip is made to run at 160*. The tranny is also starting to slip a little. The car is fast though, I smoked a lt1 z28 that had about 2-3 carlengths on me at the 1/8 mi. It's all the 60' that's killing me, but not because of traction. With the new back brakes, I sould be able to launch harder. A cooler night should help a lot too.

 

get drag radials.