Well, after 2 years building my car I finally made it to the track wed night. 1/8 mile passes, but still gave me an idea of the potential the car has.

1. (7.36@93.5 1.58 60ft) nitrous throttle switch wasnt positioned properly, only hit right off the line and motor only rest of pass.

2. (6.47@104.4 1.36 60ft) my best pass of the night, nitrous hit good 1st and 3/4 of 2nd, then fried my alternator and nitrous was cutting in and out due to lack of batt voltage.

3. (8.52@59.3 1.76 60ft) my dumbass pass, launched in 2nd gear let out after 60 ft

4. (7.10@95 1.46 60ft) nitrous surge on and off the whole pass

Overall I am very pleased, never thought id break into the mid 6's on such a conservative tune and lowest jetting on the nitrous. Cant wait to see what it does on a more agressive tune and more nitrous. Sucks cause i now have to put 4 more points in the cage..

Gotta figure out what is causing my alternator to fry itself, this is my 3rd one in the last 3 months (and ive only driven about 10 miles) I think it may be wired wrong cause the voltage is reading 15.5 volts at idle.

check the vid here http://www.exit22.org/natevideos/6.47.WMV

 

Not bad. That should be around 10.0 in the 1/4 mile. All the requirements for 9.99 and quicker in the 1/4 mile also kick in at 6.39 in the 1/8.

 

hey stephen you have any ideas as to why im having so many probs with my alternator? do you know how the wiring should be on my car?

 

If it's 15.5v then it sounds like the voltage regulator is gone.

GM alternators are not that hard to wire up. A main hot wire goes to the positive post. Another hot wire goes to the regulator (needs to be on a switched curcuit if battery is relocated so engine can be shut off from master switch). The third wire is a filed wire that goes hot when the ignition is on to activate the field and make the alternator charge.

Without checking out your wiring myself, I can only guess at what might be wrong.