1/8 mile times,does this sound right
#1
1/8 mile times,does this sound right
i went to the track saturday night and ran a best et of 8.2 at 90 mph i was hoping for a lot better,the mods 650 holley dp jetted 71 84 performer rpm intake dart iron eagle heads 215 cc intake runner and 64 cc combustion chambers with trw flat tops comp cams extrem 274 230 236 @.50 488 490 lift full 1.6 roller rockers hooker super comps headers 1 3/4 full leanth true duels three inch with h pipe, msd pro billet dis hei. msd 6al with blaster 2 coil motor is a 355ci does this sound right i thought i would be in the mid 7 range wtf
#2
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Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: 454 Demon 850DP
Transmission: TH350, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73
That does sound a bit slow for your setup. What was your 60ft like? It could be possible you were spinning alot.
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Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: 454 Demon 850DP
Transmission: TH350, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Your 60ft wasn't horrible but you should have at least been in the high 7's I think.
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Car: T/A / Grand Am
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: glide
Axle/Gears: 9" ford 5.67
Well you asked. Your running a street cam, and carb. With race heads. A bit of a miss match in my opion. With 1.9 60 footers tells you're spinning a lot. Get those down and your ets will drop. I run 1/8 too, in modified class. Most guys with your mods run about what you are. I run 7.000 to 7.009s and only run 103+. But I have 1.42s to 1.48 short times. What gears are you running? The GTA in my sig runs 8.80s with 1.9 short times with street tires. I don't think you're doing too bad.
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
That's a big head for such a small carb and cam even with the 1.6 rockers.
It could be a number of different things. How much lift are the heads and springs set up for? Total ignition timing? Weight of car with driver going down the track?
It could be a number of different things. How much lift are the heads and springs set up for? Total ignition timing? Weight of car with driver going down the track?
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#8
total timming is 38 the heads have 205 160 valves duel spings 1.437 they are good for .620 lift and car stock wait is 34 to3600 lbs not sure,and im 215lbs,lol so what size cam should i be using the car pulls hard till rev limeter kicks in, i sift at 6500 rpms
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90MPH is pretty good!!!!
You are making good hp just not using it. I would say that 90 MPH should get you 114 MPH in the 1/4 mile. And that enough MPH to get high 11's - Now work on the driving.
If you could pull a high 1.7 60 that should get you real real close.
Beside if you pick up that 60 ft your MPH will get a little better assuming you are bogging now.
You are making good hp just not using it. I would say that 90 MPH should get you 114 MPH in the 1/4 mile. And that enough MPH to get high 11's - Now work on the driving.
If you could pull a high 1.7 60 that should get you real real close.
Beside if you pick up that 60 ft your MPH will get a little better assuming you are bogging now.
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Originally posted by chad89ta
87 ta,do you think the heads are to big,if so what cam should i be using, thanks 4 the info
87 ta,do you think the heads are to big,if so what cam should i be using, thanks 4 the info
With those big heads on a 350 port velocity is out the window and thats all of your low end torque. So take advantage of the High RPM HP ..
What is the LSA on your cam? That duration is @ .050 right?
(nevermind the dur. just saw it.) HYD FLAT TAPPET?
Either way you have a good runner... Dont sweat the time , MPH reflect HP and you are making it.
90 mph can get you a 7.7 1/8 mile or better.
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
I think those heads are too big for the displacement and camshaft you are running. I go 7.9's with smaller (vortec heads) on worse (2.0) 60 foot times with the same camshaft (XE274) and displacement.
Last edited by unknown_host; 12-09-2003 at 09:20 PM.
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Well you could leave it as is..
But if you decide you want to get more from the combo I would get something with a tighter LSA - Maybe like a 106 or something to take advantage of the exhaust scavaging and go with a solid to run the rpm the heads will want to. Also get the lift up in the .500s to let the heads flow at their near their peak.
But I would not run out and buy those things either - Like I said you have a good runner now, Now you just have to take advantage of that power. But if you want more, ^ there it is.
But if you decide you want to get more from the combo I would get something with a tighter LSA - Maybe like a 106 or something to take advantage of the exhaust scavaging and go with a solid to run the rpm the heads will want to. Also get the lift up in the .500s to let the heads flow at their near their peak.
But I would not run out and buy those things either - Like I said you have a good runner now, Now you just have to take advantage of that power. But if you want more, ^ there it is.
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Although the springs can take that much lift, are the heads set up for it? What's the maximum lift of the head? If the valve guide isn't machined down enough, the bottom of the spring retainer can hit the top of the guide.
According to the Comp Cam catalog that camshaft operates in the 1800-6000 range. Since you're shifting at 6500, a step up to the next one XE284 would be better since it builds power to 6500 rpm.
You should have a minimum of a 750DP carb. An 800 or 850 would be better. You have big heads, valves and exhaust but a tiny carb. With those 2.05 intake valves you should have an even bigger camshaft (much more duration). How much compression ratio is the engine and what grade of fuel are you using?
The Performer rpm intake isn't bad especially for a street driven vehicle since the dual plane design builds low end torque but a Victor Jr would really help on the top end.
According to the Comp Cam catalog that camshaft operates in the 1800-6000 range. Since you're shifting at 6500, a step up to the next one XE284 would be better since it builds power to 6500 rpm.
You should have a minimum of a 750DP carb. An 800 or 850 would be better. You have big heads, valves and exhaust but a tiny carb. With those 2.05 intake valves you should have an even bigger camshaft (much more duration). How much compression ratio is the engine and what grade of fuel are you using?
The Performer rpm intake isn't bad especially for a street driven vehicle since the dual plane design builds low end torque but a Victor Jr would really help on the top end.
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by 87_TA
Well you could leave it as is..
But if you decide you want to get more from the combo I would get something with a tighter LSA - Maybe like a 106 or something to take advantage of the exhaust scavaging and go with a solid to run the rpm the heads will want to. Also get the lift up in the .500s to let the heads flow at their near their peak.
But I would not run out and buy those things either - Like I said you have a good runner now, Now you just have to take advantage of that power. But if you want more, ^ there it is.
Well you could leave it as is..
But if you decide you want to get more from the combo I would get something with a tighter LSA - Maybe like a 106 or something to take advantage of the exhaust scavaging and go with a solid to run the rpm the heads will want to. Also get the lift up in the .500s to let the heads flow at their near their peak.
But I would not run out and buy those things either - Like I said you have a good runner now, Now you just have to take advantage of that power. But if you want more, ^ there it is.
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Well a tighter LSA give you overlap of the ex and in valves meaning they are open the same time for a given duration.
What that does is - The exhaust valve will still be closing while the intake is starting to open. What that does is the charge of exhaust flowing out of the chambers creates a vacuum in the cylinder helping to pull in the intake charge.
I personally think you do not need much more duration (some will not hurt) But you have plenty now..
The LSA and the lift will now help you. only down fall of the LSA being LUMPETY LUMP and low idle vacuum..
But I am living proof you dont need that much for power brakes.
My camaro used to idle with less than 5 inches and the brakes still worked pretty well, worse case senario you need a canister.
Welll bed time here, 4 am comes too quick. yawn
What that does is - The exhaust valve will still be closing while the intake is starting to open. What that does is the charge of exhaust flowing out of the chambers creates a vacuum in the cylinder helping to pull in the intake charge.
I personally think you do not need much more duration (some will not hurt) But you have plenty now..
The LSA and the lift will now help you. only down fall of the LSA being LUMPETY LUMP and low idle vacuum..
But I am living proof you dont need that much for power brakes.
My camaro used to idle with less than 5 inches and the brakes still worked pretty well, worse case senario you need a canister.
Welll bed time here, 4 am comes too quick. yawn
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Car: 1992 RS Camaro bracket car
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH-350
We are running a best of 8.11 @ 85.5 MPH w/1.85 60' times. This is with a 305.
With your 355 your MPH is up there, you are making power. I would agree on potential mismatch restricting you a little. The biggest element is 60' times. We saw a best of 8.26 with 60' at 1.90. When we got 60' down to 1.85, ET dropped to 8.11. .05 off 60' dropped .15 off ET for 1/8th mile.
Our restriction at present is stall speed. Driver (son) sees 3,200 RPM at launch. This is too low for puny 305 minimal torque output. Last Saturday, he made 10 runs w/60' all in 1.845 to 1.855 range. Debating whether to increase stall or replace single plane manifold. Removing 1 inch open spacer dropped 60' time by .05.
With your 355 your MPH is up there, you are making power. I would agree on potential mismatch restricting you a little. The biggest element is 60' times. We saw a best of 8.26 with 60' at 1.90. When we got 60' down to 1.85, ET dropped to 8.11. .05 off 60' dropped .15 off ET for 1/8th mile.
Our restriction at present is stall speed. Driver (son) sees 3,200 RPM at launch. This is too low for puny 305 minimal torque output. Last Saturday, he made 10 runs w/60' all in 1.845 to 1.855 range. Debating whether to increase stall or replace single plane manifold. Removing 1 inch open spacer dropped 60' time by .05.
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by chad89ta
what rearend are you guys using,cant be the stock 10 bolt,best ets ive heard for a 305,wow
what rearend are you guys using,cant be the stock 10 bolt,best ets ive heard for a 305,wow
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Car: 1992 RS Camaro bracket car
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH-350
We got a 1992 rear. Have not an axle break yet. Originally had a truck posi. It started slipping so I installed a $99 take off Zexel unit. Put rear support cover when changed slicks. So far everything is working fine. 60+ passes. When I installed 4.10 gears, I welded axle tubes to center section.
The 305 probably does not have enough torque to hurt rear with automatic transmission. After we break into 7's will install nitrous setup. Next stop after that will likely be a 9 inch.
The 305 probably does not have enough torque to hurt rear with automatic transmission. After we break into 7's will install nitrous setup. Next stop after that will likely be a 9 inch.
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Well I'm running an Auto so its a little easier on parts but...
stock 10 bolt , zexel torsion, 3.73's.
Best 60 ft 1.54. Just switched to 4200 stall well see if I cant pull a 1.4 outa the stocker.
stock 10 bolt , zexel torsion, 3.73's.
Best 60 ft 1.54. Just switched to 4200 stall well see if I cant pull a 1.4 outa the stocker.
#28
DAMN I MUST HAVE HAD BAD LUCK WITH MINE. THE FIRST ONE I BROKE WAS THE FACTORY 28 SPLINE THEN THE OTHER TOO WHERE THE 26 SPLINE,I NO THE 26 SPLINE ARE WEAKER BUT THEY WERE FREE,AS FOR THE MOSER A LOT OF CASH,BUT ITS BEEN WELL WORTH IT FOR ME AT LEAST.LOL
#29
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Its kinda worth it to get 28 spline axles only because SLP sells take out Torsions for only $90.00 dollars and so does Thunder racing I think.
Its the total option if you bust one.
Its the total option if you bust one.
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Car: T/A / Grand Am
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: glide
Axle/Gears: 9" ford 5.67
There is a guy running a s10 at my local track. Has a built 383 sbc, just later part of the season started having rearend problems, but he is now running high 650s to low 660s on 12 Hoosiers. He has the stock 7.5 WITHOUT a girdle. I talked with him the last race of the season, and he said he had no troubles at all till he got the hp. to run 680s. I think they are stronger than people say, just depends on how they are setup. When I bought my GTA it had a set of richman 373 gears in it, and a lot of noise. I took it out and installed a set of 4.10s. When I pulled it, had so much clearance in it, if I were to try and use it . It would have destroyed. I am a firm believer in a good torque coverter too. chad89ta,, is this car a street or a race car? If you go much bigger on the cam you WILL need a converter to go with. I had a torco converter built for my race car, and we broke the engine in on the street. Worked real well, I also bought a 2400 from anouther company for my GTA, and it was JUNK! It does make a differance. I'm thinking on useing a comp 305h in the GTA this season with a new converter of course.
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