its based on fact.


a burnout on 99% of the street tires out there will overheat them and you have LESS traction then you started with.
this was especially true from... oh 1901 until the mid 1990s.....


the only exception today is some performance tires... a good example being the modern drag radial...



that said, i cut 2.3-2.1 inconsistant 60's with FULL TIRE PRESSURE, NO BURNOUT 245/50-16 bridgestone potenzas. with the automatic.

i blew apart my 4.11 rear with sticky tires, so i dont know what the 60's would have been with the manual.... but probly alot slower.


also, im doing this with a basicly stock L03, and witht he auto, 2.73s and stock stall and swaybar.

 

And what 60' times are u cutting? Im not trying to brag but I told ya my procedure at the track and the 60ft I cut. I havent seen too many people able to cut better then a 2.0 60ft on street radials. Obviously I must be doing something right.

 

heating up street tires works. when my DRs ran out of tread, i was forced to switch back to regular Michelins. went to the track and did NO burnout. got a 2.29 60ft. 2nd time around, i did a good 5 - 7 sec burnout. the results? 1.86 60ft.

im proof the "dont heat up street tires" is a myth

 

I just ran my car (and broke tranny in process, didn't get full 1/4 mile pass) and I ran a 7.75 8th mile at 91 mph. On that pass I got a 1.89 60 ft. I have NO idea how somebody like MDformula with like half the horsepower could get a better 60 ft. Tracks must really be different in the way they time 60fts. I was running E.T. streets 15X9.5X26 with 3.73 gears, a 3,200 stall 10 inch converter, and a double pumper 870 HP carburetor. Believe me that 1.89 60ft put my *** in the seat.


Just FYI..........a 7.75 1/8mile= 12.0 seconds in the 1/4 mile, so according to everyone's theory on 60 ft times I should have pulled a 1.6.

oh, and that was at a 3,200 altitude track in Tucson. Thats about a half second correction factor, so techinically that would have been a mid 11 second pass with a 1.89 60 ft!! Either I'm doing something way wrong or some tracks are just different.

 

Now? I haven't had it to the track in some time. I'm running Nitto DR's, and can tell you from street racing, a decent 4-5 second burnout makes a world of difference.

Several years ago before I had most of my mods when I was running low-mid 15s I had BFG Radial TAs. I'll have to check my old slips for actual numbers, but this is what I remember off the top of my head. The first pass on those tires I went around 2.4 or so. In the lanes a couple of guys were asking a few questions about my car and gave me some suggestions seeing that I was new. Second run I did a few second burnout and launched at the same RPM. Result? Same 60' Third run I was advised that the TAs were very hard and that I needed to spin them LONGER. So I did. Result: 2.2 60'. I repeated that 2.2 one more time that night.

There was a thread about this several years ago and someone actually contacted the tire manufacturer in question (Goodyear I believe) and they verified what I'm saying.

ChrisFormula355: You correct 1/4 ET based upon elevation and not 60' ET? Granted there are no 60' ET correction charts for DA but don't compare a 60' ET at 3200' to 100' (Capital Raceway) 1.89 60'? Your other post says 1.79, WITH TRANS/CONVERTER PROBLEMS!

 

With those mods and ET Streets you should be doing much better in the 60' than that. I'm within a tenth of you on an old L98 with a K&N filter. I haven't even raised fuel pressure yet. I disagree that a 2.0 is "really good" for street tires, especially when our cars lay down so much torque. I suppose it's a nice benchmark for front drivers. My little brother hits pretty consistent 2.1s w/ 225/50/16 H rated Pirellis in his '99 GTP (3900# FWD car, open diff, almost no mods). I'm getting 2.0x runs on street tires with a tired old tranny, auto, and a 170,000 mile L98. Stall converter, shift kit, and rebuild parts are in my garage, and I anticipate 1.8s 60' times once the rebuilt tranny is in.

60' times are recorded the same from track to track. Of course, staging and track prep can affect them.

 

Ya thats one thing thats been left out of this conversation so far, staging. Getting a good deep stage can make all the difference.

 

my usual 60 foots are 2.0's or 2.1's when i am dialed in,
i have bad ones around 2.4 where i just spin and let off.

and of course my 1.8XX 60 foot where i just hooked well because they just threw down some traction compound.

my car is more controlable because i dont have much power.
so i wouldnt really compare mine with urs at all.

 

The best my street tires could do was 1.99's. I was doing considtent 1.99s and 2.0s at a few different tracks. A solid burnout always worked best for me. My times got as low as an 8.6X in the 1/8th mile with the street tires with consistent 8.7s before the mild bowl blend to my heads. I stepped up to Nitto 555r and went 1.89 60' with the 8.48 second time in 1/8th mile. Consistent 79 & 80 mph.

All on stock suspension except Spohn SFCs, stock converter...but with a rebuilt 700r4. Stock 3.27 gears. For my setup, my street tires (a few differnent sets and brands) limitation was 1.99s.

Our big block car so far has a 60' best of 1.82 with M/T ET Streets...spinning a bit. Sort of a mismatched combo at present...but car is bout a full second faster than my GTA at the 330' mark. So lot more in 60', but haven't got it yet.

 

You know what guys, its entirely possible that my tranny isn't broken and that I"m just a complete moron that doesn't know how to work/setup a B&M prostick. I drove the car today and when I shifted it really carefully into each detent I did a bunch of full 1/4 mile passes on street tires and the tranny shifted perfectly. Now, the problems started to occur when the car was one slicks........but now I"m wondering if maybe I didn't just have a piece of crap stuck in the valve body. I'm going to try and track it again next track date and see what happens, and bring a tow rope.

 

with slicks, gears, and proper chassis setup, you can even make a 152hp L03 cut a sub 2 second 60'