My previous times are in my sig. This was last year at e-town, SLP day. It was pretty hot that day also.
My new mods are; LCA relocation brackets, eibach springs, KYB shocks and struts and, of course, BFG Drag radials. My other mod is a CAI via hood vents on my harwood cowl hood(I can post pics if anyone wants to see). The CAI dropped operating temps a solid 10* in NY summer heat, stop and go traffic.
So do I have a chance for for high 12s, if I reduce my 60' time to say 1.9 or better?
PS: I also have TQ arm, SFC and LCA already replaced w/aftermarket pieces. I had them during my last year's runs.

 

Dude with a 2.4...i hope u where spinnin...cause if u cut a 2.0 or 1.9 u could be mid 13s!!:hail:

 

Your 104 mph should be good for low 13's. High 12's is around 106 - 108 mph so you only need a little more HP. Your problem right now is traction. Buy some slicks and stop trying to race on street tires.

 

Sure, I was spinning like mad. But I'm sure mid 13s could be had w/drag radials alone, and w/my MPH.
I'm hopping for some 12s.
I thought that every tenth you knock off the 60' is worth a tenth and half at the end of quarter?

 

I would say yes. I run a 350 with the same cam,L98 alum heads, full exhaust, 3.73 rear, Pro built auto, 3200 stall, SuperRam and a 28" tall Drag radials. Spohn TA and relo brackets are the only suspension work done to the car. 3690 lb with me in the car. AC and all. Car went a best of 12.32 @ 110.89 with a 1.72 short time. Track was prep bad! best 60' was a 1.60 last year. Temp was 87 deg. F, Humidity was 84 percent and the baro was 28.94. Not the best conditions. Hoping for an 11.99 befor the year is over. good luck! keep me posted.
P.S Where are you from? You can see me run from time to time at Cecil County in MD.

 

I appreciate your input, as always. But wouldn't drag radials qualify as beyond street tires?
106-108mph for high 12s....good to know. I'm hopping the cooler weather puts me there. Plus I'm hoping my motor is broken-in at 6K.

 

Those are great numbers, but you ditched your TPI. I have a Stealth Ram w/all the fixins sitting in my garage...waiting. I just wanna get the most of my TPI set-up before I say good bye to it.
PS: I'm in Brooklyn. I go to E-town but there's a track at Long Island that I keep hearing about I'd like to try one day. BTW what state is MD. Excuse my ignorance.

 

Maryland

 

I got 13.17 @104 with 1.91s 60'

 

Drag radials really arent much better than regular radials from my experience. They just cost twice as much and last half as long.Get some real slicks like stehpen 87 iroc said.

 

With drag radials you just have to tune your suspension better. There are people running low 8's on drag radial!

 

How old are the drag radials?

Chances are cars running low 8's on drag radials change them often and they're not driven on the street. For most of us, 1 and maybe 2 seasons of strip only is the life of the tires. Just because there's still rubber left on the tire and the wear bars are still showing doesn't mean the tires are still good.

I still have rubber left on my slicks but I'm changing them because they're just not hooking up like they used to. I'm also putting a larger tire on.

 

Actuall most drag radial racers run them bald and ook the best on the dead bald DRs. As I write this we have a set of 275/60/15 BFGs that we are wearing down for a DR racer!

Look into the new MT Drag Radials. I hear awesome things about them!

 

The ones running 8s on Drag Radials are the ones with 5K in thier suspensions, electronics and ignition box gizmos that have better processors then my computer that can take out timing and limit full throttle for specific rpm intervals and launches.

For the average joe like us, I have found that with a manual(same one you have), drag radials, and a track that doesn't espically keep up on the prep, getting the DRs to hook up is a chore. With your 3.27 1st gear and 4.11s its like having a th350 with like 5.XX gears or something ridiculous like that. Getting the DRs to hook under full throttle out of the hole is going to take a lot of suspension tuning I would think.

You can get DRs to work, just seems easier to bolt on a set of ET Streets as they are more consistant and much more forgiving and a whole lot less work. I'm hanging up my Nitto DRs after this year and picking up some real slicks, gonna be the best thing I ever do.

 

I've always wanted to know - is there a MPH/ET correlation that always holds true? Or, does it depend on the weight of the car (or something else)?

 

Is the above a dumb question? Maybe. In case it's not, I'll try to ask it differently. This is a theoretical question.

Let's say my thirdgen goes 105mph in the 1/4. According to the above info, that should be good for about a 12 flat ET.

Now let's say I have a car that's a lot lighter - say 2000 lbs. I run this car and it also goes 105mph. Is the "ideal" ET for this car also 12 flat?

I understand that the horsepower requirements for running 105 in each car will be different, but that's not the issue. My question is: is there a mph/ET correlation which generally holds true, regardless of the car your driving?

 

I've run 13.6@108 and a month later ran 13.2@102 in the same car. The only major difference between the two runs was the torque converter. A friend of mine had a car that might better answer your question. He had a vega with a junk v-8 that ran 13.0@96 mph. It was pretty light (not sure how light), had a 3000 stall converter and low 1.6x short times. Re-reading this I'm not sure if I really answered your question, but I hope this helps.

 

A rough rule of thumb is that ET*MPH=1350 on a decently setup machine with a proper combination.

i.e.:
15.00@90 mph
14.00@96.4 mph
13.50@100 mph
13.00@103.9 mph
12.00@112.5 mph
11.00@122.7
10.00@135 mph

This assumes sufficient traction. If the car is not setup right (converter, street tires, etc) the product will be higher. Cars that are setup really well will be at the lower (~1325) end of the spectrum.

Again...just a rough rule of thumb.

 

Thanks for the replies! I have searched the boards and googled, but could never find any such formula or general guideline. That's exactly what I was looking for.