3 mph needed
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by Chickenman35
What do you want the 2-3 shift to do?
What do you want the 2-3 shift to do?
Last edited by five7kid; Mar 26, 2005 at 12:21 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 896
Likes: 1
From: Coquitlam, BC
Car: 86\92 Mutant
Engine: 355CI 430HP
Transmission: T-5 with mods
Axle/Gears: 7.625", Eaton Posi, 3.73
Originally posted by five7kid
I want it to happen at WOT. At WOT, the tranny will shift manually fine, or at 4800 RPMs 1-2 by itself (gearshift in 2nd, D, or OD), but if at WOT, 2-3 will never occur.
I want it to happen at WOT. At WOT, the tranny will shift manually fine, or at 4800 RPMs 1-2 by itself (gearshift in 2nd, D, or OD), but if at WOT, 2-3 will never occur.
To me it sounds like you need heavier governor weights. That would be my first bet. What governor is in there? I ended up using a Diesel governor to get the shift points I needed.
Rear end gear ratio changes really mess up Governors. As do taller tires etc etc. That is why what works on one car may not work on another. Any " shift kit" by ANY mfg is baselined for stock gearing and stock size tires. Change either ( wheels or gearing ) or worse yet...BOTH... and governor calibration goes out the window. Since the governor affects nearly every single circuit in the transmission, you can see how steeper gears or taller tires can really mess up the shift points.
What other things to alter shift point have you tried? Separator hole plays sizing also plays a big part in tuning. As does valve body spring selection. It can all get very complicated. It doesn't help that one change seems to affect three other things. Oyyy Vayyy

Do you have a Type 1 valve body or Type 2? I can look up some info...but need to know what valve body type you have. Type 2's have an Auxilary Valve body, usually 1987\1988 and later.
BTW...most professional shops consider Transgo to be one of, if not "the " best Product line on the market. I've dealt with many different Automotive Transmission suppliers and know quite a few people who build Auto's for a living. These are guys I know and trust. They all consider Transgo to be an A-1 product.
The kits are not for the " average" consumer though. They are more complicated than the average " shift kit" and are really meant for advanced or Professional builders. One thing you ABSOLUTELY cannot do with a Transgo kit is take " shortcuts" in the installation. Everything must be done exactly as per the instructions, as a Trango kit ( especiially the " Street\Strip " or " Race " mods ) change many more items than the Typical " Brute Force and Ignorance " kits such as B&M.
With a little tweaking, there is no reason whatsever that you cannot get that tranny shifting exactly where you want it. I'd definately give Transgo a call though if you haven't already.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 896
Likes: 1
From: Coquitlam, BC
Car: 86\92 Mutant
Engine: 355CI 430HP
Transmission: T-5 with mods
Axle/Gears: 7.625", Eaton Posi, 3.73
Originally posted by five7kid
I want it to happen at WOT. At WOT, the tranny will shift manually fine, or at 4800 RPMs 1-2 by itself (gearshift in 2nd, D, or OD), but if at WOT, 2-3 will never occur.
I want it to happen at WOT. At WOT, the tranny will shift manually fine, or at 4800 RPMs 1-2 by itself (gearshift in 2nd, D, or OD), but if at WOT, 2-3 will never occur.
If shift point is to high or you get a " No shift " at WOT, move the inner sleeve a bit closer to the carb. This is a quick fix, and you don't want to stray too far from the " correct" baseline.....but this will often correct a problem with a shift point that is just a bit too high. Can be used for fine tuning of shift points as well, once you're " in the ball park".
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350, 4200
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3.89
What about experimenting with other (people's) parts. If you are just playing around on a test say and ET isn't important, try some shorter tires to build rpms. I didn't see what intake you are running but if a buddy has something to try, that's an easy swap. So is trying a bigger carb. Just a few ideas...
Trevor
Trevor
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The TH700 is an '86, w/o the aux. Dana of Probuilt went through the setup with me (a lot of time spent on the phone). Nothing helped. TV cable is absolutely adjusted correctly. Since I went w/o TC lockup for a couple of years, I probably hurt the 3-4 pack. I have 2 other TH700's to try to get it to work. The guy who rebuilt the TH400 for me said to bring the front pump by, he has some 13-vane units he'll put in for me.
I'm thinking street tires might produce a higher MPH than the slicks. Since ET won't be the issue, getting off the line won't matter. But, rolling resistance might.
I'll have to ask around to see if anyone has a Stealth or RPM manifold I could borrow for the 396. Or, even a single plane. Right now I'm running an Action +. I doubt a larger carb would help any.
As for the frontal area, I was brainstorming with the co-worker who went out to Pomona with me. Thought I'd take the panels on each side of the radiator out, then open up the heater and vent openings in the firewall, and adjust the trunk lid so it has a gap. That would allow the air to go straight through the car (with the back seat out).
I'll probably do all this and end up with a 99.8 mph slip, or something like that...
I'm thinking street tires might produce a higher MPH than the slicks. Since ET won't be the issue, getting off the line won't matter. But, rolling resistance might.
I'll have to ask around to see if anyone has a Stealth or RPM manifold I could borrow for the 396. Or, even a single plane. Right now I'm running an Action +. I doubt a larger carb would help any.
As for the frontal area, I was brainstorming with the co-worker who went out to Pomona with me. Thought I'd take the panels on each side of the radiator out, then open up the heater and vent openings in the firewall, and adjust the trunk lid so it has a gap. That would allow the air to go straight through the car (with the back seat out).
I'll probably do all this and end up with a 99.8 mph slip, or something like that...
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350, 4200
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3.89
Is 97 your best MPH or the MPH on your best ET. What is your usual MPH on a normal weather day?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The one in the sig was with the best ET. I believe there have been a few slightly higher than that, but no 98's.
"Normal" is low 97. It'll dip into the 96's when the weather gets hot or there's a headwind.
I haven't run the Camaro enough to get much data on it. I would suspect that I could make hefty gains with it with the 350 and a properly operating transmission.
"Normal" is low 97. It'll dip into the 96's when the weather gets hot or there's a headwind.
I haven't run the Camaro enough to get much data on it. I would suspect that I could make hefty gains with it with the 350 and a properly operating transmission.
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