anyone know the right angle??
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From: jacksonville fl
Car: 91 firebird
Engine: sb2.2 headed sbnos
Transmission: tsi glide
Axle/Gears: 4.30
anyone know the right angle??
....for my engine and tranny. i have to modify my crossmember for the new tranny and want to make sure it is all sitting in there correct. ive heard you can put an angle finder on the balancer is this true? Someone told me this can greatly effect how the car works.
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
I'm sure there is a proper angle somewhere. I've modified mine so much that I'm nowhere near a factory angle. This winter the engine was lowered and with the huge headers under the car I had to lower the rear of the tranny also. This means I had to fabricate a new tranny crossmember.
I've never measured the angle that the engine sits on. I'm not exactly sure where I would measure from. The intake is angled to level the carbs out and they look straight. I guess if I stuck a level on the carb flange of the intake it should be level. I can't measure the crank center line at the rear of the engine. There's no way I can measure the difference from the centerline at the front to the centerline on the tranny output shaft because there's no way I can get under the car when it's on the ground.
I just shoehorned everything in so it would fit the best. Measurements like that for me were not an issue at the time.
I suppose the best way to do calculations would be to measure the pinion height of the diff. The tranny output should be at or near the same height. The front of the crankshaft can be anywhere from that height to higher as required. Raising the engine up too much will change the u-joint angle at the tranny so you can't lift it too much.
Changing the tranny mount height will also change the driveshaft pinion angle.
I've never measured the angle that the engine sits on. I'm not exactly sure where I would measure from. The intake is angled to level the carbs out and they look straight. I guess if I stuck a level on the carb flange of the intake it should be level. I can't measure the crank center line at the rear of the engine. There's no way I can measure the difference from the centerline at the front to the centerline on the tranny output shaft because there's no way I can get under the car when it's on the ground.
I just shoehorned everything in so it would fit the best. Measurements like that for me were not an issue at the time.
I suppose the best way to do calculations would be to measure the pinion height of the diff. The tranny output should be at or near the same height. The front of the crankshaft can be anywhere from that height to higher as required. Raising the engine up too much will change the u-joint angle at the tranny so you can't lift it too much.
Changing the tranny mount height will also change the driveshaft pinion angle.
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
With all the crossmembers we've made over the years, we always set a level on the carb mounting area of the intake and got that level and proceeded to do what was necessary for the trans cross member. 5 cars now all running low 11's to mid 10's and never a problem.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Detroit, MI, USA
Car: '82 Trans Am
Engine: Blown 540 BBC
Transmission: TH475
Axle/Gears: Dana 60, 4.10 w/spool
A good starting point is to match the angle at the pinion, to cancel out any potential vibration. Also, generally speaking, you don't want to exceed 3 degress at each joint. I like to measure from a machined surface on the front of the engine block or heads. The carb mounting surface can be used, but be aware that many carb/manifold flanges are already at a slight angle in relation to the engne block. Be sure to make all measurements with the rear suspension at normal ride height.
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