i would first like to say thanks to all the guys who told me it should do it ( IHI, STEPHEN and anyone else who i forget) I went out on my first pass with brand new stickered drag radials and posted a 11.98@116 with a 1.93 60ft i knew then it was going to be a good night. next pass was a 11.62@ 117 1.71 60ft and i followed that up with a 11.58@117 1.69 60ft. i was kinda babying it out of the whole(10 bolt) but the tires seemed to get better all night still have some room to tune on the motor and susp. i picked up 10mph and over a full sec since my last outing by swapping trannies and puting stahl headers on it. this was all with 28" tires and 3.73s.

 

What headers did you have before. Thats a big improvement.

 

lol i had heddman 1 5/8 shorties after pulling them off we realized the ports were apx 1/4" bigger than the header all the way around. the headers i bought cost 1100-1200 but i found this new in the box set for 300 so im not mad at all with my investment.

 

just wondering how those worked. I have hooker long tubes. No wonder you had such an improvement, that motor was choked to death..lol

 

i really believe going from the 700r4 to the th350 helped a great deal as well the power is sooo smooth its a constant pull unlike before which seemed to peak real fast and die out the motor seems to stay in its sweet spot the whole time jw built a great convertor for me it was built for the spray and he told me it might be a dog on motor well combined with the 3.73s thats exactly what i expected but it suprised me.

 

Congrats!

Were those passes on nitrous? If so how much were you spraying?

Also curious as to what DR's you went with. I have managed a 116mph run in the 1/4 but it was at 14.2 so next up are some DR's.

Thanks,

-Schultzy

EDIT: oops, saw the Mickey Thompsons in your sig. Never mind on that one.

 

Congradulations, now if you are anything like I am you'll be trying to figure out what to do next to drop a couple more tenths off...lol

 

The first couple of full seconds is easy. The faster you go, the harder it is to go faster.

When I had my old 383 stroker, I dropped from 14.0 to 12.0 over a winter. Heads probably made the biggest improvement. Old smog heads with stock valve springs were swapped out for heavily ported camel heads with 2.02/1.60 valves and the proper springs for the cam. At the same time the 700R4 was swapped for a TH350 and a 3800 stall 10" converter.

There was such a drop in ET, everyone wanted to know where I hid the NOS bottle.

All the "bolt on" stuff available now still doesn't produce hp like heads and exhaust can. Properly matched parts can outperform exotic parts just thrown onto the car. A good example is a Stock Eliminator car.

I was talking to a local stocker racer last weekend. He said a properly set up "stocker" car could still run it's index number with a good junkyard engine. It's not all about hp but gearing, weight transfer and traction which most street vehicles don't have. A 300 hp street car runs 13.00. A 300 hp Stock Eliminator car runs mid 11's. OK, what are we doing wrong?

It's nice to see good performance but it doesn't come cheap. $1000+ for race headers is very common. I got a good deal on my coated Ed Quay headers. $450 including shipping. My guess is that they're closer to $1500.

 

no bottle yet!!!! its all plumbed just needs to be wired and then used. i havent really tried tuning the car yet, it has a old cap and rotor which doesnt look great and i havent started messing with the susp yet but i think the car has 11.30s in it then ill spray and pray for the nines. for now i just have to be happy i can drive it again.

stephen is right a good combination means the world to all the guys who question the th350 swap "JUST DO IT".

Anyone care to guess how fast we can go on a 10 bolt???

 

welcome to the club!!

 

thanks!

 

i'm shocked that ten bolt held up . i have seen lesser car,s destroy them . i see a new 12 bolt or 9'' in your car soon . hope it holds for ya best of luck !

 

Depends what you've done to the 10 bolt.

When I was still using one it had all the beefed up stuff

Aftermarket 28 spline axles
Welded spider gears for a poor man's spool
4.10 gears with MT 28x9 ET Drag
welded axle tubes
solid crush sleeve
Aluminum rear cover with bearing cap supports

If I remember correctly, I had it down to 11.2. The only reason I changed the diff is that I went to a tranny with a transbrake and didn't think the tiny ring and pinion would have taken more than one hit off the transbrake. No matter what you do to the diff, the tiny R&P is still the weakest link.

 

how many run do you think you put on that 10 bolt? and was that with that monster u have under the hood now?

 

Congrats on the times, as you found out new tires dont work perfectly until you beat them into submission 3 or 4 passes, then they start catching on

Get some better air, and the right track, you'll be 11.3's no problem. get the right tune...???who knows

 

My 10 bolt was behind a BBC but one I was using years ago. Cast iron factory heads, LS6 pistons and a CC Extreme energy cam. I think the engine was only producing about 550 hp at the time. The automatic transmission is easier on a 10 bolt than a manual. It cushions the shock to the driveline. That's why I didn't think the 10 bolt would have survived a transbrake. I ran the 10 bolt for about 1-1/2 seasons but have no idea how many runs I did at the time.

 

my 10 bolt has a eaton posi and richmond 3.73s. its been in the car for atleast 4 yrs all of which have had drag radials mounted to it. the reason i dont want to go to a higher gear is that the higher numerically you go the weaker they get due to the pinion size being reduced so im gonna leave it alone till i can cough up some serious dough for a full race moser 9". Im sure shifting into 3rd at the 1000-1200 ft mark isnt the best thing in the world but man on the bottle it should have one nasty top end charge.

 

Awesome times!


sidenote- My 10 bolt w/ 4.10 richmond gears and (poor man spool) went 10.8's and probably 2 handfuls of slips over a 4 yr. period before it let loose...