r/t: -.038 (been up and down all night trying to find the tree)
60': 1.756
330': 5.288
1/8: 8.288
mph: 81.79
1000': 10.885
1/4: 13.082
mph: 102.74

been a long night. car actually ran a 13.03@103mph but that one didn't count cause the fan belt rolled off in the burnout box.

air was BAD all night long. had it been cooler and dryer like it was two weeks ago, it'd gone the 12.99 i'm looking for so hard.

 

You should get a 12.9 in better air...very impressive times. Always makes you feel great when people don't believe that its a N/A 305...I'm sure you'll hear a of that running those kind of times. Makes me wish I would have kept my 305 a little longer and tried a few different things like you have.

 

Seeing as you are running a 310 you should be able to break into the 12's. Like was said above with the right conditions you will be there.

 

cause let me tell ya, those 5 cubic inches are all the difference in the world... lol!

 

wow man hats off to you. ive been reading all your posts as you go along. keep workin on it man your haulin. my motor itself is very similar to your but i run TPI and i have some more head mods done. it gives me some hope for mine lol. i dont know what kinda difference it makes but i have eiback lowering springs and a T5 which dont really help in the 1/4 but im hoping to run a high 13 atleast

 

yeah, those eibach springs aren't going to help at all

the reason i do as well as i do is because of the ability to stick the car to the track. it's got v6 springs all the way around with 1 coil cut on each corner. i take the front sway bar off for the track. i boxed the lca's and put the relocation brackets on. i also went with the 275/60/15 M/T ET Street Radial tires for the back which help a TON. also, look at places to reduce weight. anything you can live without, get rid of it. i don't even carry a spare cause it wouldn't matter if i had it or not. the big tires out back w/ the posi unit would make it impossible to run the small tire in the event of a blow out or something.

 

yea weight wise im good. i have no ac or heater, no spare, no front bumper support, i have lakewood lca's and spohn relo brackets. i wanted to get a set of hoosier quik time pros but im worried about the T5. it was just recently rebuilt though. but i am lacking posi. im moving soon for college to NC and im gonna check out thirdgenresource down there to get a posi unit

 

Even if you ran a 12.99 you wouldn't have a 12 second daily driver. It would still be a 13 second daily driver. A 12 second daily driver is a car that runs 12's 95% of the time. If you can't pull off a 12 almost all the time then it is not a 12 second car.

Tim

 

thanks traxion, i appreciate the encouragement, lol!

well, i have a small bog off the line that should be fixed by upping my primary accelerator pump shot one or two sizes. this should decrease my 60's and put me well into the 12's, 95% of the time.

 

MW - do you bracket race of just TNT?
If you picked up without the fan belt - didn't that send you a message? Run an electric fan.

 

i have an electric fan, i don't have an electric water pump.

i do bracket race some, but there is a headsup race with me and a 74 cuda with a 360 in it in Columbus OH. his best time to date is 12.84 @ 84' above sea level. he's been running about the same as i with the da that i've been at. so, i'm trying to find every little bit i can. here is the dilema i'm facing now: i've run out of money i can spend on making the car faster. so, i'm trying to think of different things i can do with what i have.

gonna try to borrow my dad's electric waterpump drive kit and see if that gets me there.

 

12.84@84???

Did you mean 104?

 

Now this is not one of those electric water pumps you can run on the street but one of those electirc motors with a belt that runs the pump?

Are you going to ask dad, or just borrow it without permission?

You drivin' to Columbus?

 

84' above sea level not MPH

Very cool times running a n/a 305 man! Check out www.horsepowerjunkies.com for some NC reading.

 

eric, yeah, it's a belt driven motor, probably just ****** it off at the track. i'll be driving to Columbus, but don't worry, i'll have a regular belt around that water pump.

trevor, i was talking about 84' altitude. his mph was in the 103-104 range.

87_Z28_350: thanks man, i'm really excited that the car even went this quick.

 

well, the 305 is on it's last leg...just ran a compression check, here are the results:

1: 210psi
2: 190psi
3: 190psi
4: 210psi
5: 200psi
6: 200psi
7: 90psi
8: 210psi

it seems like either a broken ring or a broken ring land....so, i'm putting a 350 together. i'm going to go to the track with this thing one more time looking for that 12 second pass, but it's got to be able to drive me to work for the next 3 or so weeks. it's been burning oil more than normal for a while now...so...yeah. oh well.

 

Noooooooooooooooo!!!! Pull it out, pull the that piston, replace it or the rings, run a ball hone through it and reassemble! Much cheaper than another engine build!! Just half a days work to you compared to what you are used to!

 

eric, i'm having a hard time justifying rebuilding this motor...it's time to go faster. just looked and it would cost me the same thing to build a 383 as it would a 355, so my options are opening. my 305 is badass, i'll be the first to admit it, but i've more than proven my point. i wanted to have a daily driven 305 run 13.7's consistantly. i did that last year. this year, the car went 13.4's, then 13.2's, now 13.0's. i'd like to get a 12.9 pass out of it before i pull it. i intend on doing it at the shootout.

 

I take it this was a "wet" compression test and you aren't talking about a leaking valve here?

I know "rebuilding" the engine isn't worth it, but I was talking about repairing it as needed.

- I meant- pull engine, put it on the stand, pull the one side head with the low cylinder. Pull the one piston out. Replace the broken rings or replace the piston itself if the ring lands are broken. Run a dingleberry hone (that's what I've always called them) through the bore if it's scratched. Reassemble. Toss it back in the car, run it some more and tell the grandkids about it one day.

Sure it's dirtball rebuild, but it will buy you some time until you get the other engine built.

Cost would be a few gaskets, set of rings or a piston and some time. And it would run realibaly for longer.

Also if you are building a 383 on the cheap (but I figure you aren't) I have a set of 5.56" 400 rods if you want to use to build a no-clearancing needed stroker.

 

everything still works fine, which is wierd...and yeah, it's not unseated valves. the new motor should be together within the next 6 weeks. can't wait. hoping to get it done before the 305 goes. i don't want to pull it, fix it, put it back in, only to pull it again and replace it in a month. it'll be fine for now.

 

If those are wet test #'s, it's a leaking valve.

 

a leaking valve would have been shown on the gauge by the needle leaking down, right? it didn't do that....

 

Five-Seven, I have always known a wet test to show it to be rings if it's still low- the oil seals the rings, and if it still leaks down, it's past the valves. Correct me if I am wrong.

Now the valve thing makes me think- I have done leakdown tests on four stroke diesel engines, and many times I have had a low cylinder, and I have taken a rubber mallet and hit the intake and exhaust rockers, when you do this, air rushes out (duh!) but as soon as the valve snaps shut, I have had the gauge come up- I have had more than one engine with marginal cylinders on a leakdown test come up to acceptable. Sometimes a small bit of carbon wedges between the valve seat and valve and popping it open and shut clears it.

Matt, I know you don't want to pull the engine and fix it- but have you thought of pulling that head and having a look?

 

Dry test gives you the baseline. Wet test, with oil, with improve the pressure when cranking it over if the leakage is past the rings. If the pressure stays the same between dry and wet, that's valves.

 

oh, ok, well i did a wet test (didn't know it had a name) and it went to 150psi over the 90psi dry test...sounds like a piston ring to me.

 

you can't have a have an N/A 305 that runs 12 because some guys with L98's struggle to get there :-p. Good luck with the 350 build. I'm awaiting some low 12 1/4 times.

 

not sure what kind of compression gauge you're running, but mine has a check valve in it, and it wont leak back until you press the release button and release the pressure. just reads peak pressure. what you're talking about with the gauge leaking down is probably some sort of leak down gauge and not a compression gauge.