Hi all,

I'm rebuilding a 305 roller block to put into my '82 Trans Am and I'd like to know about how fast I should end up going down the quarter mile, and how much HP I should be making. Here's the specs of the engine and my car...

3.23 LSD rear
14x7 rims with 235/65/14 Kuhmo tyres
aluminium drive shaft
shift kitted 700-R4
Hedman's 1"5/8 headers and 3" exhaust all the way to the exhaust tips
1989 305 roller engine
true 9.1CR (I think that was the number for 91 octane fuel)
081 heads with 1.90" intake with port work done
Electric cooling fan
MAF TPI
ported plenum
computer tuning
No air conditioning, no smog pump, no cat
boxed LCAs
subframe connectors

The Laser cam I'm running...

Adv. duration @ 0.006 262/267
duration @ 0.050 lift 209/215
lobe lift 0.325/0.325
gross lift @ 1.5 0.487/0.487
lobe seperation angle 112

What do you guys reckon? Could someone desktop dyno it for me please? With the '82 LG4 in the car I'm doing 15.6s and I haven't touched the engine at all.

 

i would say mid 14's with a decent converter in it. stock converter, mid higher 14's....if u can hook up really well and pull 1.8-1.9 60 foots, then mid high 14's probly pretty easy.. that setup is abit stronger than LB9 305's which are capable of mid higher 14's with good driver, and should make about 250hp on crank or maybe abit more... i think more compression would be nice, like 9.5-10 to 1 but it should run decent.

 

Some more compression and TPI make some decent torque. Im going to say absolute best is going to be a 14 flat.

 

Crikey, that SLOW???

 

mid lower 14's isnt that slow

 

Should be into the 13's with a good converter and traction. My cam is almost identical at .210/.220 and .480/.480 lift with a 112LSA. my heads are 081's with 3 angle valve job and untouched ports/valves and a completely stock untouched TPI setup with a hyperjunk chip.

I also ran with 2.73s

 

Thats not really slow! My old 305 that was originally in my car, many moons ago, ran a best of 13.99. That was with bolt ons, and NO HEAD WORK. That time was at a fast track, on a cool day. Normally, the car ran 14.20s. It was a 1992, and had the most power from the factory, as of yet. You are ahead of the game with a decent set of heads. Like TunedPort335 stated, with a converter and traction, I dont see high 13s out of reach. BTW TunedPort, nice car. I saw it in CarCraft.

 

It will be interesting to see what my car will do when it's finished. Somewhere in the 13s is my goal with this car. I may have taller gearing and better heads, but you have more cubes and a higher compression ratio working for you.

I really do admire your car, because you've hit mid 13s, I want to also.

 

Somewhere in the 13s is my goal. What sort of converter would you recommend? My understanding is that the performance they give is at the expensive of increased fuel consumption which is what I'm trying to avoid if I can. As you know, fuel hasn't been getting any cheaper these days.

 

If I told you what converter I have, you would laugh.

 

Ridiculous stall ? 4000+?

 

His sig states he has a 2600 stall.

I know the basics of how stall converters work, but not enough to pass judgement. So, what stall do you have brutalform?

 

yeah if its tuned right, i do see a 13 if you have good traction and cut low 60 foot time. i'm not sure what tires those are, but i would suggest something bigger/wider, a drag radial would be awesome.

make sure ur suspension is working good.. nice adjustable shocks helps alot for weight transfer


converter size? i would say 2600-2800. i have Edge 2800 and its awesome.. got my L98 with only headers/catback and gutted airbox into the 13.8's at 96.6 with the old 2.77 gears.. 1.89 60 on street tires. new 3.27s' i'm doing 13.98 at 100.8mph... so i gotta work on that ET.

 

I've replaced most things suspension wise, I guess an adjustable torque arm might help too.

What does one look for when choosing a converter? What is driveability and fuel consumption like?

 

Well to make a long story short, its a $125.00 cheapo converter from a trans store on E-bay. When Floorguy built my 700 R4, it was his first trans, so we decided that we should put a cheapo converter in, just in case the trans got smoked, I will only be out a cheap converter. The trans has held up all season, and now I am going with a 3200 stall this winter. That cheap $125.00 converter has 11 second ETs on it.

 

I have run stock, cheepo torque converters into the 10's on spray. Helps to be lucky

 

Wow that is interesting. But what did it do for fuel consumption? How badly did it effect this?

 

i have a Edge racing converter, 2800 stall with lock up, and other than when driving up slight inclines at below 40mph, and when cruising not in overdrive, u cant tell its there. fuel consumption probly only went down 1-2mpg if that.. not much of a difference at all. depends on how u drive, and where u drive, fuel consumption will be determined. if u do alot of hills in ur area where ur not gonna be going over 40mph, then a converter will eat gas cuz ur rpms are gonna be way high and ur gonna overheat the trans. thats probly how i lost some mileage of mine cuz i got afew areas where my rpms are abit higher than with the stock converter... but like i say its not much of a difference

a smaller converter is more efficient than a larger one. alot of B&M and TCI street converters in the 2200-3000rpm range are 11-12 inch converters. mine is a 9.5 inch so its gonna work more efficiently. i love mine so far... best mod yet