this might be a silly question but is there a need to break them in when new before going to the track. i saw a clip that a guy did a burnout to break them in but i just don't know if it's needed. thanks guys

 

totally unnecessary on that particular tire. the first run of BFG drag radials back about 8 years ago needed a break-in burnout and at least 24 hours before use after that, but the m/t just pull into the burnout, make sure the first burnout is a bit bigger than the rest as they do tend to harden up between weekends just a little. by bigger i mean like a 10-13 second long burnout, other ones will only need to be about 8-10 seconds. normally i come up in first, wack the throttle and hold at about 4K, then shift into 2nd just after they start to haze, then roll out of it when the engine starts to bog down...that's when you know they are nice and sticky...though for you with your tremec, i'd just start in 2nd and go from there.

 

thanks for the help and fast reply. hope all goes well at the track.

 

Let us know how those tires work for you (60's et al).

I have a pair and a five speed too, and they've been worthless for me. So I'm curious how they'll work for you being a fellow stick driver.

 

not a problem at all. it should be interesting to see if i will hook or not. -lol

 

In all honesty, I have not seen, or heard of them working well in stick cars. Yes, let us know how they worked for you.

 

Check out this link.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...et-street.html

 

thank you for the article there, brutal. that was some interesting info on them. i can understand the info that he wrote to the guy, but i have seen a good amount of standard trans cars pulling some fast times using those tires. i don't always agree with what manufacters say, but i might be different. thanks again guys and i will post up some numbers for ya. -brian

 

i'm interested to see your results. my buddy ssean92 has a 92 RS with a warmed over lt1/t56 combo running a 275/50/15 m/t et street radial. we're going to the track next sunday, i'm excited to work with him to get the car to work properly.

 

You leave the burnout box like that with a turbo 350 and you will be picking up the pieces inside the transmission.

Either leave the box in 3rd or 1st. I have busted 2 turbo 350's this way. When it grabs in 2nd it doesnt take much to wipe out the sprag. Just letting you know because I learned the hard way. I guess every1 is suppose to "know" this but i didnt and paid for it.

I think I read you have a turbo400. Although its less likely to happen it can still happen. Dont let it grab in 2nd gear like that.

 

Actually supperramvette i think you information is a little wrong. Yes th350 and th400 are the only automatics that use a sprag to hold 2nd gear. The problem is when guys start in 1st and hit the throttle hard, the tires rattle at the same time they shift to 2nd, this is what kills the sprag. The sprag does all the work to stop the high gear drum and accelerate the car. You need to minimize the shock load to the sprag. you should ALWAYS start out the burnout in 2nd gear. This prevent the gear change hit from hammering the sprag and rolling it over during the burnout. If you dont have an automatic valvebody, then you should start in first and just get the tires spinning slowly and shift quickly into 2nd gear before the heavy throttle to heat the tires. If this procedure is followed then the life of the th350 and th400 will greatly be lengthend. That is one of the main failures with these trans.
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You should also drive out of the water box using the throttle and not lifting as the car exits the water. The shock of the tires hooking with not throttle can also roll the sprag over.

 

Actually, your information is innaccurate. When the transmission shifts at the given burnout operation there is very little load on the transmission because the tires are spinning. The load on the sprag comes when you are doing 70MPH in the burnout box and force the tires to slow down to 5mph when you leave. If you drove a manual valvebodied turbo350 with a descent stall you would know that when the 1st to 2nd shift occures there is no "bouncing". Stalled cars dont react like regular ones. The shifts are a lot smoother.

 

After re reading it looks as if we are saying the same things, cept my emphasis is leaving the box as to where most of the shock comes

 

i'm using a built 700r4 and have not had ANY problems doing 1-2 burnouts

 

Believe me i am not having any trouble either its a built th400 w/ 5500 stall and trans brake. Its built to handle 1400hp. the 700r4's dont have a sprag that hold 2nd gear so there is nothing to worry about but line pressure and clutches. Its just the way the trans are set up. Basically th350's and th400's only really have that problem if they are stock or close to stock. As we all know that even the most built 700r4 has nothing on a th400. I used to run an extrememly built 700r4 ( over 1200 in parts alone) and i would take the th400 anyday for racing. Sure that 3.08 first gear of a 700r4 is fun but the 2.48 of the th400 is alot easier to hook on the street.

And superramvette we are basically saying the same things. Most of the racers around here with pretty built cars 8's to 11's all do 2nd gear burnouts and i have always been told that that is the easiest on the sprag. You never want to lift off the gas while in the waterbox and let it grip. Drive out of the waterbox with the gas(like john force style lol) just dont go past the staging beams. I used to have it where i would come out of the box at about 6000 in 2nd and just drive it within a couple feet of the beams.

 

Smokin, what's ur car running at the track? I have been contemplating a ls1 swap but right now I have a 418 afr 210 motor sitting on the stands so its not feesable to do so till I am done with it. Currently the car has a 350 with spray and I'm running 6.61 @ 103 in the 1/8th. The car has a lot of power now but it's hard to argue with the LSx swap driveability. just curious if u drive urs a lot and what its running.

 

I will let you know after this weekend for some shake down passes. I am looking for high 10's with the stock heads. Deep 10's with some decent heads plus i will be spraying 200 on top of that next season. So i will let you know.
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O and the driveability is amazing. It is not even tuned yet and still runs 10 times better than my old motor which was a built 355.

 

i have a stick and a pair of 275/50-15's.. the have never hooked right off the line for me.. i usually spin them a few times then they hook up to a 1.8s 60ft.. i definetly wont be buying them again.. i'll probably try the good old E/T Streets.. not the radials..

 

we tried the radials on a car last week, they didnt like our chassis setup, the tires do work they just need a different setup than wrinkle wall slicks.