Well I finally got the car weighed.

3180 car and 1/2 tank gas
3430 with driver

This is with a stock steel hood, and full interior.
My times and combo are in my sig.
Besides tires, What do you guys think I need to do next?

I plan on some Hoosier QTP's for tires and going to a Holley 750 HP this spring.

 

First I would like to say: Nice Looking Car.

More cubes or Power Adder or less weight

 

Thanks.

I plan on a 383 later on and maybe a cowl hood and draglites.

Going from the M/T tires I have to the Hoosiers, I will save 13 lbs on each rear wheel.

With traction and cooler air, we calculated to be in the 12.40's.
Thats not too bad with a stock bore.

Last time I ran the car, it was about 92* high humidity. I am going to the track in the next few weeks, just to see what it will do with cooler air.

 

I would say Hood. First.

Then maybe hold off till you can get that 383. You have enough flow, in your pipes so there is no room to improve there. And while you are saving for the motor, look here and there, all over the car to try and save weight.

 

Yeah, The stock hood with blisters is heavy. It is keeping me from trying carb spacers also. I could loose quite a few lbs if I went to a fiberglass hood and say 15X5 front draglites. I had thougth about going to a S-10 steering box and loosing the PS. That would drop a few lbs, but I would rather keep it.

The car is lighter than I thought. I didnt think it would go under 3200lbs, but maybe close.

 

don't bother with the PS and stuff. Keep the PS.... I would look into maybe if you AC or any parts left of it in the car. Also maybe a better driveshaft.... What about lighter brakes. ALso of you go with tube arms and K memeber. I have on my car. I loved my PA pieces. But if I were you I would go with sphoon s stuff now.

 

Yeah, I already have the A/c and smog delete. I removed the washer fluid resivor. I replaced the overflow with a small catch can. I removed the front swaybar. Going to the alum heads and the TH350 trans helped with some weight.

After changing the motor mounts, I would love to go to a tube K member. It Would be nice to have the extra room. I dont think you save that much weight with a complete tube K and a-arms. Maybe 20 lbs.

I could alway move the battery to the back. I wont loose weight, but might help balance out the weight.

I was wondering how my ET compared to Weight? What kind of hp?

 

Yeah not too sure about the HP. But what I do know is that you should def move that battery. It takes all of maybe 2 hours, and is a fun little job. I have the all tubes set up and it is great to have all that room. Makes just about everything very easy to work on. And as to weight savings... You def get at least 20lbs. The stocker is a huge piece of raw iron. The big stamped A-arms are hefty too. And remember it is not all about the pure weight, it is where you have it. The K-member and A-arms area is your #1 spot that you wanna loose weight. The nose. All tubes and a fiberglass hood, now that would def get you down the track faster. I am going to weigh my car in about a month.... I will try to remember to post back here.

 

bluegrassz you're probably making around 310 to 325 hp to the wheels with those times...

 

dennisbernal91z

Maybe one day I will change over to tubes.$$$$$ I will have to wait for not on that.
The cowl hood and battery relocation, I can swing. Yeah, If you can let us know what your car weights.

82whiteZ28, That sound good. I would like to get it on a chassie dyno to know for sure.

I plan on going to the track this saturday. The weather is giving 60* for the high and the track is quite a bit better on saturday than on friday. All my T&T has been on friday nights. I hope to get some better 60ft times and pick up the ET's.

I will post what I run.

 

Nice can't wait to see what you run. I think I will be able to weigh my car at the local dump when I get it back. Too bad it will be snowing by the time it is done getting painted. Oh well.

 

I work with a guy that helps run the track. I suggested that they do a swapmeet and a dyno day. If I can talk them into it, then I will take my car down to see what it is putting out.

 

Nice. It will be good to see weight vs time vs HP/TQ. Then I can get a rough estimate of how fast my car will be. hehe.

 

great looking car, my formula ran almost the same last time I had it out at IRP. 12.72 at 106.98 w/ 1.93 60 ft. I also ran an 11.68 at 117.48 with a spinning 1.77 60ft on a nos safe tune 100 shot. My formula is the exact same weight at 3180 w/ 1/2 tank and 3405 with me in it. I know there is more speed in it, just got to figure out how to get those 60 ft times down!!!

 

Sounds like a good setup.

I just found out that the local track www.londondragway.com is having quite a few different races this weekend. There are a lot of different classes that they are running. It might be fun to try it out and see how I do.

 

do you still have the stock carpet in? if so, replace it was an ACS unit. you'll drop a solid 40-50lbs just by that. the stock carpet has a rubber backing on it, the ACS replacement carpet does not.

a stock NONpowered 93-96 fourth gen seat weighs ATLEAST 10lbs. less than a stock delux front seat.

put yourself on a diet...sersiously, lol!

then the obvious stuff like the weld wheels and fiberglass hood, but you've already said that.

 

good sugestions.^^^^....

 

do you still have the stock carpet in? if so, replace it was an ACS unit. you'll drop a solid 40-50lbs just by that. the stock carpet has a rubber backing on it, the ACS replacement carpet does not.

Yeap stock carpet. I did remove the backing before I put it in.


a stock NONpowered 93-96 fourth gen seat weighs ATLEAST 10lbs. less than a stock delux front seat.

I thought about changing seat, but the ones I have are mint.


put yourself on a diet...sersiously, lol!
Trying man, Trying! lol


then the obvious stuff like the weld wheels and fiberglass hood, but you've already said that.
How much weight will I save going from a 92 hood with blister to 2" pin on hood?

 

Oh man, quite a bit. And like I said before, not just the amount of weight, but you will be loosing it, right where you want to, the nose.

I would say at least 30lbs. I have a stock 91 Z28 blister hood in my room right now. I HAVE to have help moving it, I installed my 3" double sided cervini hood, almost all by myself. It is twice as think as a pin on and it still is light. That pin on will be like paper. Maybe only 15lbs or so. Go for it. They are mad cheap to...

 

if your car is daily driven, don't put a pin on hood on it. i've got one on mine right now and that was a dumb move...but if it's a race car, than it's a decent idea. you'll drop a solid 65lbs or so.

 

Its only driven on occasions.

We have had good luck with zoop clips (1/4 turn fasteners) holding the hood down. Maybe 4 pins with a few fasteners across the front and down the sides.

I have a pin on, but its made for a pro stock areo scoop. Here is a pic of the hood I have. I got it for a extra body I plan on building up later for a track only car. The scoop detatches so I could use just the hood. Maybe mold a smaller scoop on it.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...ynecollins.jpg

 

here's my hood with 1/4 turn dzus fasteners:

 

Wait, I read your post and I had to do a double glance. I have never heard the word "weighted" alone. I think you meant weighed, I apologize for correcting you but I hate to see improper grammar.

 

Now, if you could just use some punctuation and properly place your "and" and "but", wouldn't life be grand.

 

 

Looks good man!! Nice and clean.
Thats what I had in mind.
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My bad. I slipped on that one.
I had been waiting for so long to find out!