i have a 350 block
eagle rotating assembly
850 cfm carb
holley dist.
msd ignition
hooker 2210
proline 230 cc runner heads
10:1 pistons
3500 stall ,th400
4:10 moser 12
pbm power cam
cam specs:
NT EXH
running duration: 287 295
duration:0.050 256 264
valve lift: .537 .557
lobe lift: .358 .371

opens: 29 btc 63 bbc
closes : 47 abc 21 atc


Credit cards paid off now going for round 2 in trying to gettin it running right.
found a repair shop who works and tunes on chevy motors. gonna show him what i have and tow the car there and see what my options are. tommorow i will call PBM cams and get their advice as well.

problems i face are, rough idle, been told a given with that cam.

motor dies in gear.

little vacume for brakes

hell of a time trying to start it up.

timing which i have no clue about!

so far ive researched that i need a vacume can, timing retard setup and possibly a bigger stall converter.

will update in a few days..

 

Your torque converter stall is probably the minimum stall for that cam. Too low of a stall speed will pull the engine down at an idle. Unless you have some serious problems, it shouldn't pull the engine down far enough to kill it.

I can't even guess at what you need to fix it without doing tests to see exactly what it's doing.

Do :
Compression test
Cylinder leakdown test
Adjust valve lash
Use a degree wheel and piston stop to locate TDC and set the timing pointer then adjust the timing.
With it running, use a propane torch (unlit) and move it around the intake manifold and carb base. If rpms increase, there's a vacuum leak.
Drill small holes in the carb butterflies to allow more air through and so you can close the butterflies to use the idle circuit.
Try a different carb to isolate if it's a carb setting problem.
How much lift are the heads set up for? You might have a valve train interference problem.

I could probably go on and on at guessing what "might" be wrong.

 

my first thought is inital timming. try running 20 to 25* of inital timming and see how it reacts.

 

so far a new starter has been put in, the one prior ,a hitachi, was fried.
engine fired up like a beast, my mechanic says the distributer is locked out , and the carb has jetting issues. those are gonna be addressed along with a new flywheel and possibly a electrical vacume pump for the brakes. will reply with updates in a few days.

 

If you want to keep your timing locked out, you should probably get a timing retard to make it easier to start. IMO, that's a lot of cam for a low compression 350 and couple that with heads and a carb that are too big. Not trying to pick apart your setup, but you may have a tough time getting that thing dialed in.

 

heads are too big for only 10:1 on a 350. Cam is on the larger side too, I'm guessing you'll be spinning 7500 RPM with this combo? I had a friend who ran an all fiberglass 2600 pound monte carlo with a 355, with those heads and a cam around that size. Motor was 13.5:1 and ran on 110 octane, had a 5500 stall and shifted at 7800 rpms. Definately not a combo that you could even think about driving on the street like it sounds like you're trying to do.

 

forgot to mention it is a 383... more updates in a few days...


update: timing is set around 38', vacume pump is in,new flywheel and starter,carb jetting issues addressed,gonna go pick it up tommorow!

 

good luck.

 

all right guys, after some serious carb - jetting issues were taken care off, the pump was nixed. mostly the carb was causing the severe problems. the timing was tweaked, the brakes work (for now). car runs rough on a cold start, i have to rev it up to 25-3k rpms to keep it from dying, it will then idle at 25k rpms but once the temp reaches 160-180 degrees, it will lower to 800 rpms and runs in gear. i know the cold weather is makin things a bit harder.

one question though is that i have a tank of super gas that has been in there for at least 7 months, should i pour in some octane boost since octane degrades through time?

 

Stephen 87 IROC all i've got to say is that i love that car. thats what my goal is , is to have the front wheels lift off the ground. nice work!

 

Man, you are doing allot to a radical combo just to make it street worthy, good luck with finishing, i say just add some more fuel of whatever preferred octane you already have, should be fine.

 

ok that would make it run rich right, no problem for a race car. but i have a ? for yall, i'm still in high school and my auto instructor says richenin a motor up will produce more power while on the other hand one of my older friends who is a technician and mods 4 cylinders says leaning engines out makes more. whos right or are both, maybe the new engines run very rich while under WOT to prevent detonation? i'm not sure just hoping someone one could help me out, and when i say i'm talking less than a 14.7;1 air fuel ratio and when i say lean i'm meaning over a that. thanks for any input in setting me straight

 

yeah thanks, just droped it off at the body shop to attach the front end body parts and urathane bushings. i'll try to post a pic of it in the next few days. its just sometimes a pain to get the thing runnin sometimes, guess cause of the cold weather and no choke.