So I finally got back to the track with the newly swapped T56, 2210 longtubes, and RPM Air Gap intake. Last time out 2 years ago with a beat up T10 was less than impressive so I have been looking to get back and improve on the lame duck 13.37 @ 104.77. I believe I did that..

Temp was 94 degrees! Dayum hot..

Pass 1. All motor, leaving at 3500 (slight bog), shifting @ 6k /1:33PM

60......1.905
330....5.385
1/8....8.235
mph...86.40
1000..10.668
1/4....12.733
mph...109.13

Pass 2. All motor, leaving at 4500 (no bog), shifting @ 6k 1:53PM
No changes, just a 20 minute cool down

60......1.860
330....5.246
1/8....8.054
mph...88.06
1000..10.449
1/4....12.473
mph...110.81

Pass 3. 100 hp shot-NX Stage 6 plate, leaving at 4500, shifting @ 6k 3:30PM
Retarded timing 5 degrees

60......1.920
330....5.175
1/8....7.814
mph...94.31
1000..10.048
1/4....11.941
mph...119.89

Pass 4. 150 hp shot-NX Stage 6 plate, leaving at 4500, shifting @ 6k 4:18PM
No changes otherwise..and blew the tires off in 1 and 2!

60......1.843
330....5.198
1/8....7.870
mph...94.76
1000..10.097
1/4....11.973
mph...120.91

Car spun badly thru first and second, goes to show more power isn't always faster!

Overall I am excited the car ran the 12.47 on the motor @ 110..that alone made my day. I really didn't expect perfect times as the car had no weight transfer since the Hotchkis springs and Monre Sensa Tracs are anything but launch friendly...trade offs ya know!

The nitrous passes were just a what the hell kinda thing, and since the entire system was donated by nosfedgta of Mad Racing (Drew Rogers) and Jimmy Coombs of www.jimmy-jams.com I kinda owed it to them just to let it all hang out. Nothing impressive, but I plan to improve on that next time!

Many, many thanks to both of these guys, couldn't ask for 2 better friends!!!!

Anyone think it can go 11's on the motor??

 

well what is ur combo right now?

 

Flat top 10:1 355,AFR 195's (out of the box) 64cc,Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap dual plane intake,Speed Demon 750 DP,Comp Extreme Energy 274 Hydraulic flat tappet cam,1.5 Comp Pro Magnum roller rockers,T56 6 speed, and Moser 12bolt w/ 3.73's.Only race prep done was skinnies on the front and 27 x10.5 ET Streets on 15" Z28 wheels for the rear.

Car has subframes,DS loop,Wonderbar,3" Extreme Duty DS,Lakewood scattershield w/ CF dual friction clutch,Random Tech lower control arms and adjustable torque arm set to -2 degrees,Spohn panhard and relocation brackets set to lowest hole.

Car is set up to handle more than a drag only car.

 

remove the front sway bar and put on a single plane like a vic jr and it'll pick up a bunch I bet.

 

I plan to remove that next time out as well as I need to do some research on better suited street/strip struts & shocks...gotta improve that 60ft.

A swap to a vic jr may be in the future, just wanna see how much I can improve what is already there..

 

lakewood 90/10s for the front and comp engineering 3 way adjustable in the rear ( which is cheaper than lakewood 50/50s too )

 

Thanks for the tip!

Some pics...pic 1 = staged / pic 2 = launch

Can you say lack of weight transfer!

To explain the lame 60fts:

The 60ft wasn't so slow due to spinning, the car was dead hooking except for the last nitrous pass. I was trying to roll out half throttle or so as the clutch was slipping pretty bad the day before on the street and I wanted to get at least some ok passes in before it let go all together. Once it got moving I would then mash it and go. I wasn't even doing burnouts to heat the ET streets up as it would just slip when I tried to, just a short dry hop and stage. I would have to believe if I launched a little more aggresively it should 60ft better. Plus with some new struts and shocks that are adjustable, plan to remove a few unneeded pounds and just drive it a little better, Hopefully then the ET falls again.

 

how bout summit racing 3 way ajustables in the rear
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what are the cam specs @ 50? I'm guessin 220-230ish range...i doubt you'll pick up a lot if any by going to a single plane...but one way to find out.

 

Will look into those as well...TFTT!

230/236 @ 50. Yeah I don't see it picking up any with a single plane on the motor, now on the bottle it may be interesting..

 

if you're staying above 4500 the whole time I believe a single plane would help and definitely help on the nitrous passes

 

That is true, I understand your recommendation. But on the street bottom end is nice to have as the car only sees the strip maybe twice a year.

 

Here's a video of my third pass. and the first pass on the jug!

100 shot NX plate system = 11.94 @ 119.89

http://video.ls1tech.com/video/c71b4...8b00e6a507.htm

 

the whole "bottom end" saying that I hear all the time just bothers me, if you're just "cruising" you don't need tons of low end torque, and if you're jumping on it from a light, you'll be above 4k rpm in a split second anyways. If you need to accelerate you'll be downshifting, etc.

 

..valid points indeed!

So I'll go with this reason, I don't wanna spend $$ on a single plain. Just trying to make it go a lil quicker with whats already there.

 

Some people dont want to mash the gas to be able to accelerate at a reasonable rate.

Other than that, your point is pretty much dead on.

 

"reasonable rate" ??? So if they drop even 30ft/lbs, but still have more power than a 4 cylinder economy car this argument never holds true. Now I could see the 5500 stall daily driver, etc. but if it's a fun weekend car, who cares.

 

not me, i'd have gotten a single plane, but i still doubt he picks up much by going to one. Street car to me is pump gas and runs cool. Everything else is a luxury

 

That combo is extremely similar to my old one only I had much crappier heads and slightly more gear. My 750 demon with out of the box settings it went 12.52 @ 108 with a 1.70 60ft first pass. The car nosed over in 3rd gear and backfired a few times as well so I know there was more ET in there but I never really spent any time fine tuning it because as-is it ran better than I expected. Spraying at the 60ft mark on a 100 shot it ran 11.88 @ 116mph. On a 150 shot spraying out of the hole it did a 2.0 60ft and 11.62 @ 117mph. Next pass I got it to hook and it pulled a 1.56 60ft but the bottle ran out and it bogged down and ran a 12.0 In theory that could have been an 11.20-11.30.

Anyway, keep on tuning and learning the car, there should be a ton of ET left in your combo. I'd say on motor that 11.70's shouldn't be too hard and on the gas that car oughta be in the 10.60's

 

My Demon is basically out of the box as well. I set it back to factory specs when I swapped to the RPM air gap (from a Stealth) 2 summers ago and have yet to get any real street time to start dialing it in. Car has been down for the T56 and LT swap. The only thing changed on the carb was primary pump cam and the choke horn has been milled off. I would love to see an 11.99 NA, that alone would make me happy enough. Now of course, faster would always be better. On gas I want to believe it can turn a 11.30-11.40 on the 100 alone as it more than has the MPH in it. When I get it running close to the right times on that I will go back to the 150 shot. I only stepped up to the 150 just to see what it might do, I spun so bad but stayed in it just to see if you could pick it back up, and it did and even gained 1mph. Funny if anything.

"That combo is extremely similar to my old one.."

New combo?

 

i think you'll have bottom 12's or a chance at 11's if you get some suspension tuning done and get that clutch workin to really get a hard launch out of the car.

your 1.8-1.9 60's arent bad but there is more in that combo. you should have some 1.7s or so. that alone will drop 2 tenths on that time.

lower temp weather conditions could give you another tenth or two... thats approaching a 11.99 pass on motor.

If your shifting is quick and perfect, heck i think you can do it. your trap speed of 110 is enough to get to 11.99, but everything has to be perfect

 

I have a singleplane on my street car. Never noticed a diffrence just driving around, has alot more top end now tho.

 

you have an auto, its not the same down low.. unless you have a 1200 stall or something.. manuals should be able to start off at 1000-1300 rpm..



i have a manual with a high duration solid lifter cam(260* @ .050"), 200cc heads, and a mildly ported vic jr... its not the greatest down low but i have not really tuned the carb yet.. still runnin lean off idle.. so i have to get it to 2k to run smooth..


back to topic:
onebad82z, get those 60's down to 1.7-1.6 and you will see 12.0-12.2.. you should be able to drop clutch with the gas down for a hard launch.. how many miles does the dual friction have?? mine has about 3500-4000 and i took the weights off.. still burns 28x11.50 hoosier qtp's.. i would suggest a line lock if you dont already have one.. then you can try preloading on the line.. it wont shock the tires nearly as hard and will be easier to hook up.. i've never tried it yet but will eventually.. on a 150 shot, you should be in the mid-high 10's..

 

You mean holding the line lock, and letting out the clutch partially? That would really heat up the clutch right? I guess for a moment it would work, but i've never heard of people doing that... Is that standard practice?

 

i've heard of it... you do it for a moment to not burn out the clutch. not sure how common it is, but maybe its more consistent?

 

preload is exactly what you described.. i have no idea if its standard practice or not.. since it is really hard to do the same preload all the time.. and you will only want to preload when the lights start coming down.. it would be like footbraking an auto.. somewhat.. i wouldnt think you would have to load it up too hard since you just dont want to shock the tires with a full clutch dump.. i wouldnt try it on a slipping clutch.. or a stock clutch for that matter..

 

The DF has right around 10k on it. I tried a power brake on the street the day before we went to the track and the damn ET streets were hot enough to hold tight, so instead the clutch spun! I guess that nitrous run right before was enough to heat them up and start really sticking. It spun pretty hard when I first stood on the kit in 2nd so I would have to say that was their burnout for the day...and it seemed to slip when trying to power brake to get the tires warmed up at the track so I gave up on burnouts for the day.

Even a low 12 pass is more than enough for me and what I want out of the car so that would even be cool. Than spray into the 10's somewhere, although that would only be once in a great while. Any faster NA and I start needing the cage and all that, which just isn't where I see me going with this car. Just a fast, fun street toy.

You removed the weights? How so? and why?

I do have a line lock although not hooked up right now, but that is on the "to do" list for the next track outing. Hoping mid september when it cools down some more. I may have to try the preload method and see..whats to lose right?

 

i removed the weights because i thought it was affecting my shifting.. i used to miss shifts like crazy.. almost every run i missed a shift or had to shift really slow.. i took off the weights and the shifting was 10x better.. i can now powershift without a thought in my mind.. and she still holds up..

to take them off, you bend the "L" on the weight ring, flat and just pull the ring out and then slide the individual weights off..