I have relocated several batteries to trunks, everytime I loose significant starting power, Just did the 94's last night - went from awesome cranking to
struggling! Anything I am doing wrong of not doing? Have a good chassis ground at rear of car, have an engine to body ground. I know that increasing length of battery wire will do that, but seems lots of people do it without any trouble.. Only think I can think is reduce the length of power wire, I can maybe get 3 feet off of it..

 

Size of the battery, age, condition? Size of the cable? Amp draw on the starter?

I've never had a starting problem from my relocated battery. I use 1/0 battery cable. My battery ground goes to a bolt that's welded to my roll cage. The engine doesn't have a proper ground. I should have a good ground cable from the engine to the frame or roll cage but my engine is grounded to the frame through the aluminum front motor plate. I use a Ford type starter solenoid mounted inside the car. There is no voltage going to the starter until the solenoid is activated. A simple loop of wire from the hot side of the starter to the starter's solenoid saves running the second wire to the starter. I have to use a mini starter because the huge headers prevent anything else.

 

probably not big enough gauge cable, wouldn't go smaller than 1/0.

 

As stated above use 1/0 battery cable and get the good cable high strand tin covered cable crimp and solder the lugs also pay atten to you battery cut off switch a lot of the cheaper switches are not rated over 250 amps.

 

i have the summit 250 amp on/off switch along with the summit brand wiring kit and have no issues at all for cranking.

 

thats cuz ur motor has has more blow by than jenna jameson's a*shole

 

I'd use the double 00 wire gauge that is primarily used for sound system amplifiers. I used to have a 4600watt sound system, and after I got rid of it I used that wire for a welder, and I have yet to find a use for it that it cant accomadate. its a bit expensive but well worth it.

 

Hmmm,
Well I have been using the same Summit battery relocation kit in all of them..
The battery is brand new, and car cranks awesome when battery is under hood.. I would have to say it must be the guage of wire then, I don't know what guage it is but it must be 2 guage - thats what size the connectors are..
So that would sound like the problem then?

Thanks

 

yes it would

 

I would try new battery cables look for high strand count when looking at the wire on the end you want lots of smaller strands of wire versus big lower count of strands. also the wire that is silver in color is tin covered and will resist corroding better than copper.

 

Thanks,
Just picked up some thin strand 1/0 from Lowes and some solder, its not fine strand but thin - wish it had been fine though for easier movement.

 

Its done and much better,
I have used this cable and box in three different cars, all of which never really started great.. But usually made up for with powerful starters thinking that was just the nature of a long power supply..
I was able to shorten the cable from 19' to 14', soldered the ends and went from 2 guage to 1/0 cable..

Thanks for help

 

For future note, we've always just used 2/0 welding wire/cable and have never had any troubles...heck, the cable in my car is 22' by the time it twists and turns through the car, and never a lick of trouble...plus it's cheap

Also upgraded yrs back to 4ga welding wire off the alt output direct to battery....this made the biggest positive upgrade I've ever done to a charging system...with all my electrical stuff running before on factory harness, volt guage was stuck in the high 12's/low to mid 13 volt...all i did was install larger ga wire to battery off alt and it immediately shot upto 15volt on the guage...14.78 on the multi meter...something else to look into/upgrade when time allwos if you run much electrical stuff.

 

Good info!!!
I have been thinking of that! Especially since I run alot of accessories as well, ECM,Water pump, dual fans, Dual Fuel pumps, MSD, ECT.