Well after having my Jegs 2700 stall converter leaking at the weld, I replaced it with there 3500 10" unit. I also have the Hoosier QTP's on now.


Best times before new converter and tires.
60 ft----------1.8441
330ft----------5.3389
1/8 mile ET-----8.2221
1/8 mph--------85.24
1/4 mile ET-----12.8322
1/4 mph--------107.07



New best 1/8th

60 ft----------1.6199
330ft----------4.9528
1/8 mile ET-----7.7308
1/8 mph--------88.09

New best 1/4

60 ft----------1.6607
330ft----------4.9839
1/8 mile ET-----7.7418
1/8 mph--------88.59
1/4 mile ET-----12.1680
1/4 mph--------110.55


The temp with the old run was on a 90+* day. The new runs were in better air, so no its not comparing apples to apples.

But not to bad with a VS carb with a race weight of 3375 lbs. On one pass, I was told by several people the front tires came off the ground about 3 inchs.


Oh yeah, I entered in the trophy race that night and won the class.

 

frickin' right on bro! glad to see it's finally coming together. now get a real carb on it and run some 11's

 

Thanks man!!

The new converter and tires really changed the car. I guess it worked out for the best with the converter leaking. I sent it back to Jegs and they let me upgrade.

Now if I just had a Holley 750 Street HP and a fiberglass hood.

 

looking good, i KNEW that bigger converter and tires would help out the launch and look it was worth .2 and .7 on the big end.

 

I tried different launches and still dont know which is best. I tried holding it on the line a 3k then I tried at 2k and letting it flash. I beleive letting it flash was the time it pull the wheels. Although that wasnt my best 60ft times.

Also the track wasnt preped the best.

I had 18 psi in the Hoosiers and 44 psi in front for better roll out. I didnt really try adjusting the tire pressure. They gained about 1 psi when it was hot. Later that night when it cooled off they would lose about 2 psi. I tried to keep them right at 18.

 

we run slicks from 11-18 pounds, so you could drop them 2 pounds at a time until the 60' stops decreasing, then you know your best psi to launch. This really works on a prepped track, a marginal one won't give accurate results.

 

Nice. I'm happy to hear that the car is running well. 11's are around the corner.

 

"Now if I just had a Holley 750 Street HP and a fiberglass hood"

I've got a Holley 750 DP if your interested. Real nice carb just too much for my application. I'll part with it real cheap!

 

Thanks. I see you built your 700R4 with parts from Dana. I got my kit for my TH350 from him also. Great guy and outstanding parts.
----------
I dont know that I could swing it, but how cheap is cheap?
Need any parts? I might have or could round up.

 

Not trying to steal the thread, but I was looking for this exact type of thread. I actually was running 12.8 at 107mph (sound familar?)with a 1.97 60 footer. I am currently looking into a 3200 stall converter bc i thought my 2500 wasnt doing squat for my car. Looks like I found some answers here...
----------
Bluegrassz, what tires were you running on there before the hoosiers?

 

told ya it was an 11 sec car, get a 4" fiberglass cowl, and a few suspension parts as well as that carb and let her eat!

 

I was running M/T Indy profile SS.

Best thing to do is try and match up your torque converter with your cam.
You might try the guys at www.ptcrace.com They can make you a custom made converter. They stand behind there products and are reasonably priced.
----------
I am definatly look at a new carb. Might get some LCA's.
We will have to see about the hood.

Feels pretty good to say it is a metal car with full interior getting those times.

 

well your cam is slightly better than mine....mine is the xr276hr....i know plenty of guys that are running your cam and mine and they are within one tenth of a second from each other. In all actually, your setup isnt too different from mine, other than you are carb. Then again the HSR was modeled after a carb setup

 

i am considering ptcrace.com they seem to know their stuff and price is about that of edge...hmmmmm lemme flip a coin

 

Well the cam I am running will seem a little bigger since I am running a stock bore 350. On say a 383, it would be more mild. I could step up to 1.6 RR's, but I dont think it will make much difference.

Quite a few guys at the local track run the PTC converters and have good luck out of them. You can also send it back to them for adjustment if you change your motor.
----------
anyone have the formula to convert et /mph /weight to HP?

 

http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm

btw its odd that i am running a 383 with same heads and a little less cam than you and you are around the tgt area i am looking for......ricktpi had my setup with a 700r4 and best he could do was 12.08 @111mph

 

Well my AFR's are not exactly straight from the factory.
We put them on a flow bench and did some tricks to them. They kinda needed some work. The guides were too tight, valves didnt seat just right and the cnc groves were rough. Plus the springs didnt match the cam just right. Also im running a probillit dist without vaccum advance with 40* timing.

Everything seems to be matched up pretty well. Cam/heads/intake/gears/tire size. It pulls all the way though the 1/4.

With my 12.83 et, I was running 1/1 93 octane and 110 race fuel.
These new times, was with just straight 93.

Oh yeah, thanks for the link!

 

hey no problem! thats the link i usually use when trying to figure out hp or et's with hp on dyno. But using that link it says my 383 only has 330 hp! My problem HAS to be with the converter and maybe my 323's too. But convert is cheaper and easier to install. Good times though

 

Yeah, I would go with a different converter and go to a 3.73 gear. With the o/d you should be fine.

How much does your car weigh? What size rear tire?

 

running a 26" tall tire and i never have gotten my car weighed so i would guess at 3400ish with me in it (done some weight mods ie alum heads, smog/ac delete, about to do rear seat, plus since it is a formula, no ground effects, no spare tire or jack)

 

You might want to get it weighed so you can tell whoever makes your converter.

I guess I should have mention, I went to draglites with skinnies up front. Between the heavy M/T's I was running and the new wheels, I shaved of 56lbs off the car since the 12.83 run. Im sure this helped in my new times.

 

thats 56lbs of rotating mass so its really more...i forget the equation to figure out how much rotating mass equals dead weight

 

Yeah, I knew that getting rid of the rolling mass weight would help. Easier to turn the wheels and the skinnies help roll out.

 

thats a really neat link ,alto i really didnt want to see what my little 305 was puttin out lmao 181 hp

 

transmission specialties is pretty resonably priced and knowlagable also service was quick too, i got a spragless converter from them but they also have sprag type units that are less money, the converter is a really nice piece too the flange that bolts to the flywheel looks like you could lift a bobcat with it billet cover too (overkill maybe but i figure its good place to be overkill) i got a really high stall 5k, and it has very little slip on the big end wich is impressive

 

i thinking about get that 3500 convert. so it really work well? how are u taking off ? footbreaking it? if so how high will it foot break?

 

don't get so caught up in the "footbrake stall speed" that you loose what is important, which is where the converter flashes to after the intial launch.

 

ok how do u test the flashes after the intial launch and how do u launch on the line?

 

The best way to launch the car is to rug it from an idle (800rpm) or just raise the rpm just enough (1000 to 1200rpm) against the brake to tighten the suspension and driveline slack, and get clean throttle response, then RUG IT!. This "'shocks" the converter making it get the best "flash stall at launch"
If the ignition timing at idle is right and the carb accelerator pump is set up correctly it will scream out of the hole.
If you have poor traction then loading up the converter against the foot brake can help by killing off some of the converter "flash". But you really just need to dial in the chassis for more traction not kill the converter flash.

 

what u mean killing off flash? what cause it to do that?

 

Some things ya just got to figure this stuff out for yourself. Get the converter and go to the track and try it. I recommend a 10" "3500 stall" converter for your car.

The Jeg's "3500-3800" 10" HD converter seems to deliver the goods.

 

I have the jegs 10" 3500-3800, but not the HD unit.

I tried it both ways. The car would hold at about 2800 with the brake.then flash to around 3200. But if I let it flash just off idle, it would hit 3500-3700.

It is a well built unit and is only $219. If I ever go with a bigger motor, I will send it off to PTC and have it redone. But for now, I am very happy with it.

 

That's the same unit i started off with, won a ton of races/money with it...very very good deal for the money...almost one of those too good to be true things when compared to pricey race converters. xpndbl3 still has it and runs it i think, dont know if he's raced much on it, but you've got a good converter

 

makes me want to upgrade my edge converter to 3200-3400 stalll...i have 2800 now and the car leaves lazy...it needs more gear too but i think more converter would put me very close to the 12's. Edge only charges 80-200 bucks for restall/rework depending on what you get changed

 

yea i still have it, but i think I'm pushing through it on the top end, when I let off it goes from almost 6k and drops to 4300-ish immediately if not a little lower, so that is too much slip on the big end?

 

Slip is figured by mph, tire size, rear gear, and trap rpm..not by what it falls to when you let off lots of online calcs if you want to figure out actual slipage.

heck, ever since i've installed this TH400 with transbrake and reverse manual valvebody, when i lift, it goes right down to idle, just like pushing a clutch in on a stick car

 

it on its way be here wed.

 

have to check that out shortly then. Although in this car it flashes 4300 if I hit it off 1000 rpm. Hopefully it doesn't flash too much higher next year or I'll be picking up something else.

 

Yeah, Im very happy with it. I dont know why I didnt get it the first time. I guess it was just luck that it leaked and Jegs took it back. It was well worth the $19 to upgrade. I could really myself for not going with the 3500 unit to begin with.

Now if I can just pick up a Holley HP carb and get rid of my 750 VS. I should hit some high 11's.
----------
Just make sure you have the tires to handle it.