Well i finally got a chance to run my gta and i was left with mixed emotions i was very pleased with my 60'' foot but i was really hoping for 13''s but i only got 14.11@95 with a 2.02 60" and 14.17@97 with a 2.07 60" before i go to the track next time i will remove my system,have my ram air hood,advance my timing,check tire pressure,box in my lower control arms,box in my panhard bars,install new shocks,struts,and springs,and hopefully a new exhaust and tune im shooting for low 1.90's and 13.80's,but for now im pleased with the way the car hooked because it only has a 2500 stall,street tires and stock susp. with factory shocks,struts and springs with 130,000 plus miles and tips the scales at 3840lbs what do you guys think?charles

 

Try quickly rolling into the throttle instead of stabbing it through the floor next time. Helped my poor old 305 go from 2.50 60' down to a 1.92 60' and in turn dropped the ET quite a bit.

 

You have the power to run 13.80s, just need to get the launch down like you said. Drag radials will be a good investment since you've already got the converter. You putting out just as much power as I am based on your MPH and weight, but I'm running 13.5s in good air with 60' times in the low 1.8s hauling around 200-250 lbs less. Anything you can do to get the weight down and lower the 60' times will really help.

 

Thats how i do it on the street and had planned on doing that way at the track but the track prep was really good so i try flashing the converter just to see what it would do, i would have tried it like that had there not been so many cars and not enuff time
Im hoping by installing my ram air hood and removal of my box and speakers and other misc things i can drop about 100 pounds,also once i move my battery to the back that should help also with my 60" plus my new susp. components

 

We would have been a good race, I went 14.22 last time out in the heat. Look at it this way, at least you have a baseline now.

 

like 86 iroc said now you have a base line, and know what ares you need to improve, still not bad times for that much stuff in the car, put it on a diet next time.

 

rear lca relocation brackets are worth their weight in gold for good 60's...i'd definitely add that to your list of rear suspension components.

 

I plan on lca relocation brackets and planning on boxing in my stock lca and panhard bars but i was wondering if it is really worth the money to buy after market pieces or box the stock stuff?Plus i have new kyb gr-2 shocks and struts but i dont know what springs to get i want a good all around spring that will stay at the stock height but yet handle better,im not really looking to get drag springs because i only run about 5 times a year.

Do you guys think that i could get low 1.90's with everything boxed and new shocks,struts and springs and maybe sfc?

 

i think you'll go backwards with the "handling springs".

but sfc's will never hurt, lol!! you'll fall in love with the car all over again with some sfc's. i would also look into running a wonder bar and possibly a strut tower brace if you're planning on beating on the car through the twisties at all.

 

Yeah i know im asking to much to have good 60" and handle but its a dd so im torn because i dont have twisties were i live but yet i dont want to lean to bad when i do find some i was thinking about softer springs and use bigger sway bars so that i could just take them off when i go to the track and keep them on when not at the track to maintian some flatness around turns what do you guys think?Are traction bars worth it or do they cause binding around turns?

 

can't run traction bars on these cars...

...how bout you just keep the springs that are in there? if it's a ws6, the springs aren't that bad...and you can keep your launching the same. if you want to lower the car, just ****** the springs off, grab a cut-off wheel on a hand-held grinder and cut a coil off the car. if you put soft springs on with big sway bars, your suspension will fight against itself and i don't imagine that you'd be very happy with the results in either situation.

 

[quote=mw66nova;3532338]i think you'll go backwards with the "handling springs".

but sfc's will never hurt, lol!! you'll fall in love with the car all over again with some sfc's. i would also look into running a wonder bar and possibly a strut tower brace if you're planning on beating on the car through the twisties at all.[/quote



I agree i did all 3 this summer (sfc,w/b, stb) before my vert creaked and cracked all the time and plowed thru corners. Now it handle like it on rails. I have the lakewood lcas and panhard , the downside to them is that it really amps up the road noise. and prob added a 100 lbs all said and done.

 

I think your car is heavy. My fully loaded 1989 GTA with t-tops weighs in at 3510 without the driver. However I have aluminum heads and no spare tire and a Meizere electric water pump. Times are not bad for what you have.

 

I was refering to the lake wood traction action lift bars
[quote=loneroad;3532738] I will make all of those instead of buying them just because its fun and i want to save money for a new big screen and wedding rings but right now im working 7 days a week so i dont have time to get to my dads shop but it will get done when i can get days off,plus the pros are better than the cons as far as the weight is concerned
GTA 3840lbs-me(355lbs)-full tank of gas(around 80lbs)and system (maybe 65lbs?)and it is about 3340lbs give or take a few thats not to bad,the only thing i did for weight reduction was getting rid of the leather seats

 

Did you happen to take note of what RPM you went through the traps at?

Also, looking at your sig - do you have an aftermarket cam? I gather that you have a non-roller block, but was unsure about the cam.

I'm hoping to run my heap after Thanksgiving, been chasing a PS leak lately. Two pumps later, and the high pressure hose popped.

When you go to box your control arms, replace the bushings if you haven't. Poly will add more road noise and vibration, keep that in mind. I have BMR LCA's on my car, they are rubber where they mount to the body, and poly where they attach to the rear axle. Not nearly as bad as the all poly on my 2000.

 

the traction action lift bars are junk. the lca relocation brackets do the same job, but do it better.

 

Yes its a roller block but when i had the motor reuilt i told the guy i wanted a bigger cam so he put in a flat tappet to help save me some money but i didnt know that until i got the motor back to my dads shop and ireally neede the car back on the road and was broke by that point some i didnt ave the time or money for them to replace it so im stuck with it for now,but atleast its has a nice little lope to it at idle

I will add poly bushings when i do it on both ends,the road noise dosent bother me thats what sets it apart from my new family car that doesnt make any noise ti gets really boring some times

I was wondering why nobody on here used them,and judging by your car and what yo have done i will deff. take your advice on this one..thanx charles

 

Do you know the cam specs? Just curious, I have a 209/213 duration roller cam, 112 LSA. Might wait until I rebuild the motor before I use the cam. It's mild, but I don't want to do much tuning for now. I'd like to just keep moving forward with what I have.

 

447"lift-223dur@50-lobe centers 110int-118exh