Im kinda new here I recently baught a 92 camaro rs.
I love the car and it has massive ***** for a 305 TPI but I Decided i wanted alot more tho so Im goin to Make it a Drag/street car somthin to put money in and Have alot of fun. This is my first project car and id like to know what You think I will run in the 1/4 mile strip with the stuff listed below.

My engine-

GM 350 Crate Engine.
HP: 325
TORQUE: 373
Engine Type: Chevy Small Block V8
Displacement (cu.in): 350
Block: 4 Bolt Main
Bore / Stoke: 4.030 X 3.480
Crankshaft: OE 2 Piece Seal
Rods: Powder metal
Pistons: Hypereutectic
Rings: Moly
Camshaft Type: HYD. Flat Tappet
Camshaft Lift: .465 IN X .488 EX
Camshaft Duration @.50: 224 IN X 234 EX
Cylinder Head Type: OE Cast Iron
Chamber Size: 76 cc
Valve Size: 1.94 IN X 1.50 EX
Intake Runner Volume: OE
Compression Ratio: 8.9:1.....(its low you think it needs to be higher?)
Rocker Arm Type: Stamped Steel
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.5:1
Sheet Metal: Chrome V/C T/C Black O/P
Fuel: 92 Octane
Ignition Timing: 36 Degrees Total Advance
Max RPM: 5800
Weiand Dual Plane Intake Manifold
Holley Street Avenger 770 Carburetor
8mm Spark Plug Wires
MSD HEI Distributor

Trans-
stock 700r4
(Your opinion would be nice on this)

Exhaust-
Holly hooker headers
true duels 3 inch

Rear end-
3.80-4.00 posi (havnt quite decided yet) ur opinion would be nice.

Tires-
Back- 12-15 inch wide street tires
Front- 9 inch wide street tires
(cant say how tall yet i have to lift car atleast 6 more inches there is 15's on it now.)

Will prolly have 100-200 shot of nitrous.
6" cowl induction lift off hood.

Will have full interior.

I know some of this is useless to list but i wanted to make sure i got it right and i may not have gave enough info if ya need to know more please
ask

I will be startin on this car soon saving money

 

Those 76cc iron heads have to go if you want to make any decent power change the carb from the street avenger to a 750 double pumper. If you want to drive it down the highway then id say keep the 700r4 rebuild it with all the good and gets a nice size 9.5" lockup or 10" non lock up converter. Another thing if you plan on running up to 200 shot of nitrious i wouldnt use hyper pistons upgrade to forged. May need a independent fuel system for the 200 shot

 

What heads do u recommend?

I jus found a 750 cfm 4 bbl so ill be gettin that should i replace intake or that one im getting be fine?

 

id recommend getting a weiand air strike or edelbrock rpm air gap. For heads id recommend vortecs but if you want aluminum i guess afr, trickflow, brodix, and dart is what people seem to like.

 

ok vortec heads 750 4bbl and a weiand air strike intake.

That with what i have above what do u think ill run on motor?

 

stock 700r4 will go buh by, turbo 350/400 along those lines, or a built 700
depending on what you do with the tranny, 3.42s and a detroti true trac will go nicely behind a turbo 350, if you keep the 700 i had 3.73s in my old one that kicked *** also a ~2800 rpm stall and a shift kit

 

3.73 rear end sounds good would a 3200 stall converter help?

shift kit and prolly a b&m slapshifter

 

whats best suspension for my car with what i have?

 

If you are considering Vortec heads, then I highly recommend this kit http://www.sdparts.com/product/SD806...RPMAirGap.aspx . It has upgraded heads for more lift capability, the intake you need, gaskets, bolts, and rocker arms. A really good deal. Ignore the manifold in the picture in the link - it's a generic picture of their head kits.

What "750 cfm 4 bbl"? Holley? Caution, there are many, many different "750 cfm 4 bbl" carbs out there. A Holley List 4779 is what you should be looking for.

Vortec heads require a different manifold than "regular" Chevy heads. The sdparts kit has the right intake.

Do you really mean 3" true dual exhaust? That's overkill for this size/type of engine. 2.5" true dual would be fine, and would be much easier to fit.

 

It was a holly 750 cfm 4bbl $300 brand new so ill be getting that.

Ill prolly get vortec heads as well.


Yes im going with true duals 2.5 is better then 3"?

 

Okay, but which one???? Brand new $300 doesn't sound like "good news" to me.

Unless you're not worried about routing issues or ground clearance. 2.5" duals will handle the HP just fine.

 

the 4bbl is from Jegs.com
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...43613_-1_10271


2.5 sounds good i already have to raise it alot because of my driveway lol.

 

First off, it sounds as if you have Nothing now. If this is the case, WAIT! Do not rush out and buy anything yet. Dont buy the engine, NOTHING! You have a LOT of research and understanding that you need to do before making ANY decisions. You engine of choice is a turd and a waste of money with the amount of parts you are wanting to change on it. You would be better off getting a Vortec Longblock out of a junkyard and putting rings, bearings, and cam in it along with some minor machine work to the heads and a big cam....and a Roller cam at that.

 

i had a vortec headed 350 with stock rods and crank 4 valve relief forged pistons gm vortec heads 906 casting numbers a custom ground mechanical flat tappet cam .547 intake lift .562 exhaust ground on a 108 center line, and a super victor intake and a 650 that flow 770 custom carb.
it weighed 3420 witha turbo 400 and a 9" 12.17 on motor and 10.51 @ 129 with a 200 horse nitrous kit on pump gas. and drove it every where

 

Im thinking of getting the 350 crate from year one

It comes with vortec heads, roller cam and all that so ill be better off goin with that i think.


I reaLLY appreciate yalls help im kinda new but i love my car and im learning everything bout it.

 

Well then there you go. Another good place to look is Scoggin-Dickey.

 

Yea it comes with 400 horsepower lol. its not forged pistns but i wont put nos on there till there replaced a while later


but theres the stuff bout the engine

Engine Specifications:
·Horsepower: 400+
·Torque: 400+ ft/lbs
·Compression ratio: 9.5:1
·Dyno-tested: Yes, includes balancer and 14" flexplate
·Dyno sheet: Included with engine's output
·Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
·Recommended fuel: 92 octane
·Max recommended RPM- 6000
·Block: Seasoned 4-bolt iron
·Crankshaft: Nodular iron
·Pistons: Hypereutectic
·Connecting rods: Powdered metal
·Camshaft- Hydraulic roller
·Valve lift:.520"
·Duration @ .050" (int/exh): 218deg/228deg
·Rocker arms: Stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio
·Cylinder heads: Ported Vortec
·Valves: Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
·Valve springs: Heavy duty
·Bore x Stroke: 4.030" x 3.48"
·Intake manifold: Dual-plane aluminum
·Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers included
·Engine fasteners: High tensile strength
·Warranty: 12 month/12,000 m

 

My engine-

Engine Specifications:
·Horsepower: 400+
·Torque: 400+ ft/lbs
·Compression ratio: 9.5:1
·Dyno-tested: Yes, includes balancer and 14" flexplate
·Dyno sheet: Included with engine's output
·Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
·Recommended fuel: 92 octane
·Max recommended RPM- 6000
·Block: Seasoned 4-bolt iron
·Crankshaft: Nodular iron
·Pistons: Hypereutectic
·Connecting rods: Powdered metal
·Camshaft- Hydraulic roller
·Valve lift:.520"
·Duration @ .050" (int/exh): 218deg/228deg
·Rocker arms: Stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio
·Cylinder heads: Ported Vortec
·Valves: Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
·Valve springs: Heavy duty
·Bore x Stroke: 4.030" x 3.48"
·Intake manifold: Dual-plane aluminum
·Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers included
·Engine fasteners: High tensile strength
Holly 4 bbl

Trany-
700r4
2900-3200 stall conveter
B&m mega shifter


Exhaust-
dougs headers
true duels 2.5

Rear end-
3.73

Tires-
Back- hoosier street tires 12.5 inches wide 15's
Front- 8.5 inches wide hoosier 15's



2 inch cowl induction
Will have full interior.


ive updated stuff me and my mechanic talked about alot of this stuff. He shoud become a member but he doesnt have comp lol.

What could i run easy on motor?

 

12.5's at 108

 

that carb you got or was looking at jegs is NOT A DOUBLE PUMPER. It is a vacuum secondary carb

 

Well ne got a link to the right one i should get would be alot of help.


Where can i find my rear end?

You guys thgink i will have to replace my drive shaft with what ive got up there?

 

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_12214_-1


this the right one?


cept ill get the 750

 

Can't make any kind of guess as to "what it will run" without knowing a race weight. How much weight does the engine have to move when it's sitting on the starting line? Guess at that and you can be just as accurate with an ET. The other factor is the weather. Dyno corrected advertised hp is not what gets to the wheels and because of weather conditions, the engine will probably never make the rated HP. Racing in Florida and racing in Denver with the same engine and car will have very different results.

Light vehicles don't need as much HP as heavier vehicles to run the same speed.

 

My mechanic said id prolly weigh around 3450 pounds but ill have to get it weighed when im done.


I will be starting this car in may cant wait till its done to race.

 

im going to get my posi 4:11 rear today yay


ill prolly get pics