A few days ago, my cousin told me to try this in a race, but I wasn't sure if it was safe, so I wanted to see what others thought. He told me to put my car in neutral then rev the engine up to 3500RPMs, then drop it into drive.

Now before I used to go into 1st gear and take off then push it up to 2nd gear when I hit 4500 RPMs, then 3rd once I hit 4500RPMs again.

 

That's a fantastic way to destroy a transmission.

 

neutral drops=death to the trans and potentially dangerous if pieces come apart and out of the case (leaves awesome holes in the floor)

 

has to be a bogus question..

 

No, its not. I'm not into fixing cars myself, i'm more of a gamer. I've been in a few races and I really love the thrill.

I'm asking because I don't know, is that a problem?

 

My advice to you would be to never again listen to any advice your cousin gives you.

 

stick to being a "gammer" and buy a honda. thats a big problem these days, kids actually compare real cars and driving, to video games..

 

Do it to his car...

 

Thats exactly what will happen.



See if he'll show you what he means in his car, then laugh and tell him your a gamer and dont know how to fix the **** he just desroyed.

 

 

Uhhhg my buddy used to do this to his car all the time, i mean it's fine but it just sounds so bad when he does it.

 

No.

It's not.

 

it will seem like it is fine and then one day it will start slipping and eventually stop moving...last guy i knew who did that was in an astro van and the trans fluid smelled worse than burnt diff fluid he also thought that it wouldnt hurt it until it got towed to my house

 

Also, reaction times wins races. Do you know how long it takes to get it into gear from neutral? Can you do this quickly on the starting line? Anticipating the green? You want to power break and have your catr ready to go and as close to your power band as possible.

DON'T NEUTRAL DROP!!!

 

The way I take off is this:

Stage, then put your left foot on the brake.
Push the gas pedal down a little, till you get to the rpms you want.
When the light turns (or when the last yellow goes out) release the brake pedal, and stomp it.
Ive not seen any improvments in my stock firebird by shifting it myself, I just make sure it isnt in overdrive, and the A/C is off.

Im sure others have better ways, or more detailed advice. But do NOT neutral drop your car unless your looking for a reason to buy a new one. I like the advice of doing it to his car.

 

NHRA banned neutral drops with automatics back in the 60's.

 

Look up "transbrake". That's the "correct" way to do that. (if there is a correct way...)

 

Sort of, but a transbrake is almost exactly unlike a neutral drop.

 

haha, it's almost exactly unlike a neutral drop eh? You have such a way with words Chris... I forgot to mention in the last week or so here, welcome back eh?

What I meant is, if you're looking for that sensation of "dropping the clutch", and you have an automatic, I understand that a trans-brake will do that for you, without the negatives of a neutral drop. (well, less negatives...)

Am I right on that one?

 

Neutral drop = Not in gear, bad for transmission, huge amount of shock, torque converter does not stall up to its rated speed.

Trans brake = 1st and Reverse engaged at same time, could be bad for a stock trans if the clutches can't hold it, some driveline shock, torque converter stalls up to rated speed.

I had a friend who did neutral drops in his 1st car. It was fine for about a month, after that it started slipping in 1st, then 2nd, finally 3rd still held but without 1st and 2nd good look getting it moving into third.

Bottom line: Neutral drop = trans BOOM.

 

I thought a torque converter will stall up to it's rated speed by just holding the brakes on, and with a trans-brake, you can stall it up as high as you want? (regardless of torque converter rating)
You just generate a ton of heat in the trans, so try not to hold it there for that long...
but yea, keeps both gears engaged at the same time, then it yanks reverse out and you're off to the races (err, off in the races...)

 

In both cases, the output shaft is prevented from rotating - the torque converter doesn't know why.

The tranny brake is more likely to hold so you can fully stall the converter.

 

You can easily have an engine that generates more torque than the brakes are capable of holding back, in which case you won't be able to hold it to the stall speed. The clutches in the transmission have a better chance of holding.

All the gears are always engaged in an automatic, you're just quickly exhausting the apply pressure for the reverse clutch.

 

is this a real thread? GTFOH