Took me a while to get them listed over here but went to the track Thursday the 16th.

Mods:

350, Dart Iron Eagles, Comp 264 Cam, Crane 1.5, RPM Air Gap, Quickfuel ss750, Msd Dizzy, shorties with a bullet and turndown.

700r4, stock stall, B&M shift kit

3.73 Auburn Posi

My last runs were in May 13.8 at 99, and since then I have

gotten better tires(still radials)

changed the exhaust from a 2 in one out flowie to a dyno max bullet dumped under the car

and went from my 600cfm vacuum secondaries to a Quick Fuel ss750 mech sec.

since i got it running its always kinda coughed off the line under full throttle

cant find my slips but i remember all off my good time

1st pass,
14.1x with a 2.6x 60ft

bogged and basically died off the line then got back into it.

2nd pass
13.399 @ 104.14 with a 2.137 60ft

I eased into the throttle on this one and nailed it around 2-2500.

changed the timing to 23* and got a 13.6 and changed it back to 12 advanced and got a 14 something...now its set at 20* and runs pretty good but still bogs off the line, the track was so busy i only got 4 passes in...

So i gotta get the carb and timing figured out so I can go WOT off the line, but I'm still happy with the 13.39 since i eased it off the line.

I still want to go bigger cam, 3k stall, lcas, sfcs, but the more i think about it and the deal i can get im looking at a t56 swap

Give that thing a fighting chance and put something that will hook under it! I am running 12.38 with a similar setup except for ported 305 heads and a 3500 stall. Which helps to cut 1.679 short times.

yea you need a converter dude. don't worry to much about tunning till you get one, cause once you do, its all going to change. Also check the valve lash. Where do you have the Vaccum for the brakes hooked up? to the carb or to the manifold? if its to the PCV port on the Carb, your gonna have to change it to the manifold and get a PCV valve into one of the valve covers and hooked to the carb PCV port.

Also makesure before you do any carb tunning, that the floats are set in the carb, makesure the idle screws are even, then close the idle screws (front AND back) while ajusting mixture so you get the desired idle with the smallest idle screw ajustment. With the MSD dist, remember that it has ajustable curves and springs. So try differnt springs and bushings.

Best of luck.

both my brake and pcv are "T" into my carb, the dizzy is to, i would like to do a converter, but looking into a t56 swap i dont wanna throw down 3-500 for a converter when i wouldnt need it after the swap

i got the floats set, havent checked the idle or mixture screws yet though

What are the specs on that cam? Also, what Dart iron eagle heads are you using? Combustion chamber size, port size, valve size? Just curious.

I'll bet theres a 12.80 there with a 2800 stall and traction(tires)

Nice Sport coupe though, good luck

High Energy 268H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft Only
Lift: .454''
Duration: 268°
RPM Range: 1500-5500

duration at 050, 218/218

lift with 1.5 .54

lobe angle 110


the heads are 180/64 Valves: 2.02" Int/1.60" Exh


It runs at 140, so this weekend Im going to put in a 180 thermo and move vaccum brake line to intake

we'll see how it runs then

I thought you might have had a larger cam than that... Cant search while at work... Your only running the dart iron eagle 180's Your camshaft is way to small for what you could be running. You should look into running a solid camshaft. arount 240/240 .50/.50 @ 108 lsa. Im sure this will help you out.

ya ive been told to up the cam size, which will be my next mod after the t56 swap, and sfcs after that ill be saving for a 9" and tires cuz im sure ill need them even more