well went back to the track after a 1" carb spacer and some weight reduction. first pass i went 11.2 @117.8 with a 1.54 60'. that was on my bald mickey thompsons and nitrous timing

got kicked out immediately. but i snuck in one more time to try out my slicks and my motor timing. I spun because the track prep got bad at the end of the night. went 11.4 @ 120.28 with a 1.61 60'

my first pass i was going more than 1mph faster in the 1/8 than my second pass. so i gained a lot of tp end via more timing.

I now know i will get 10's all motor soon.

gonna ditch power steering and brakes and see how all that weight reduction does.

 

time to get that cage now

 

Just needs a 6 point roll bar, 5 point harness and a single layer fire jacket to be legal.

Of course adding that roll bar will put about 70 pounds back into the car.

 

well i have some ******* metal bar from the old owner so its roughly 50 pounds. ill take that off when i get the cage.

when would i need an 8point?

 

Never really. A 6 point roll bar is minimum. Actually 5 point is minimum but everyone installs the passenger door bar to make it a 6 point. An 8 point roll bar just has the diagonal supports going from the main hoop to the driveshaft tunnel area. These are not mandatory bars with a basic roll bar.

As long as you don't modify the floor or firewall (back halving not included), a 6 point bar is good to 10.0. Once you dip into the 9's, you need a full cage.

A 6/8 point roll bar is made from 1-3/4" tubing. The majority of a full cage is made from 1-5/8" tubing. You need to use more bars but they're smaller and lighter.

 

okay now i know competition engneering offers a 8 point for 150 bucks.

anyone offer a 6 point?
I have a welder notcher and all tools to do this so i just need piping.

 

Buy the 8 point. You don't have to install the tubes going to the driveshaft tunnel. The difference in price for a couple feet of tubing isn't worth the effort to find a 6 point.

 

Nice times. Did Cam Motion recommend you that cam or did you spec it yourself? I'm curious because my car has a smaller motor yet a cam with 10+* more duration than yours

 

I told them everything with my car and they built it for me
They are some really good people

 

congrats on the times. Now get the proper safety equipment.

Even in MS it shouldn't weigh 70lbs. Maybe 50.

 

1-3/4" x .134" tubing isn't as light as 1-5/8" tubing.

Depends how long the rear and door bars are going to be. He can eliminate the passenger door bar for a reduction in weight to make it a 5 point and the diagonal supports under the main hoop (8 point) are not mandatory.

A swing out driver's door bar can be installed to make getting in and out easier.

 

my 8 pt was shipped at 120 lbs i think, but alot of that excess tubing i didnt use. I still think i was well over 70lbs tho. Its not light

Nice times man, that car is picking up well and running good ET's. I wonder how fast my 383 would have gone in good air and better 60

 

I have cut a lot of weight out of that car it's crazy
Illl be takingbout the door bars and install the 8 point

How is the easiest way of getting the door bars out without hurting the door?
I figure if I do that and the power brakes and that bar it should equal out in weight but be sturdier

 

Good times,
Most mild steel is 1.625, while chomoly has to be 1.75"

 

very nice times..i cant wait to fire my new motor up with my cammotion cam!

some people will tell you not to buy the comp engineering cage because it doesnt fit as well and isnt as light as some others, but for the money...who cares?

 

well good, i don't feel so bad now.... you ran 11.2 @117 w/NOS, intake, and slicks. i ran 14.9 @ 71 with just bone stock american beef, well almost anyway... I know i can do better but it was her first time on the track and i got really nervous when it sucked me to the back of the seat LOL. Congrats on the times though, i know I would be giving up if I had to put a cage in. That's our daily driver and the family baby so there is no way on gods green earth i would be puttin a cage in it! if you don't mind postin pics of your cage install that would be great though (just in case we get another baby)

 

A cage isn't the same as a roll bar. A cage in a street car is very inconvenient. A basic 6 point roll bar with swing out door bars isn't bad unless you carry passengers in the rear seat.

My 9.3 1/4 mile run is with brute strength and no power adders unless you consider alcohol fuel a power adder. My car however is far from being a street car.

 

OH I KNOW YOURS IS BRUTE STRENGTH, JUST GOT DONE READING YOUR LONG BALK HALF THREAD!! VERY VERY NICE DONE! wish i had another one to do up where i needed a bar or cage or back halfed.... but for now she's my baby and all i care about is that she runs as good as she looks. hopefully next weekend i can get it out to the track again and make some better times....

 

I dont see a cage being any more difficult than a 6-8 pt setup that doesnt have swing outs. My 8pt doesnt have the swingouts and with the race seats, its not as easy/comfortable to get in and out of, but i dont mind it. 10 pt cage just includes the bars going down the A pillar so that wont get in your way

 

You also have the halo bar to hit your head on as you get in and out of the car.
Congrates on the new times kowboy bring that car down to PBIR on outlaw day thay will let you run it all day long with no tech.

 

They are getting very picky @ OSW. I have been high 10's there, no bar yet. I haven't been bothered. They gave me a little guff one night when I went 11.31 - 4th pass ever w/ the new set up, still shaking it down. However, I do wear a fire jacket and a full-faced helmet. Not sure if that's why they've been more lenient on me?

JFWIW - BMP didn't say crap to me either....3 of my 4 pases that day were in the 10's.

 

I just went a 5.89 in the eight with a 6 point down south they dont even check it

 

kowboy, i don't know if it's wise to pull the guts out of your doors. the doors are an integral, strength adding component of our unibody cars, so you could possibly weaken your car. i just dont want to see you ruin a good running car over losing a few pounds.

 

sorry pal that was all motor.
on bald drag radials


thats if i install the cage. the body support would then be reinstated i believe

 

you might be alright if you put a cage in it...but for the amount of weight you'd save i dont know if it's worth it.

 

there is a guy in oviedo that does awsome work. he will install a chromeoly cage for 1500-1700.00. right now he is doing a 25-5 chassis for me now. well worth it. expecially if you are going to keep the car.

 

Here are a few pics of the car that ie is doing for me.

 

^ I was hoping pics of your new toy would surface soon. So where's the build thread?


Be it moly or ms, a roll bar requires a 1-3/4 main hoop. With a cage, it can all be 1-5/8. - W/o a fully welded(not swing-out) and properly supported door bar, definitely don't gut the doors. They are most of the structure in these cars.

here's the weight chart for DOM tubing(HREW is similiar, although uses the same weight variance as wall thickness variance)
http://www.alro.com/DATACatalog/007%...ipe.pdf#page=9

 

[quote=Shagwell;4121870]^ I was hoping pics of your new toy would surface soon. So where's the build thread?

i posted a thread in the "Fabrication" section under "New car".
i havent taken any new pictures of the car, its pretty much the same way now as the pictures above, as i get more i will add more.

 

[QUOTE=stiletto;4121933]what did your old car go on motor?

 

[quote=kowboy59;4122040]it was a nitrous motor and small cubic inches. 11.21@123

 

well ive got a custom nitrous cam and a large intake but thats about it lol.

 

a 355 with pro action 220's 11.5 compression billit rods, factory crank,
a super victor and i also have a BLP abortion of a carb, also a cammotion custom ground roller .628I .630 ex. duration @50(secret)

 

lol damn we picked some of the same people. crazy. well im bout to go solid i think. and get a brodix intake