Not today!


Got an '86 Sport Coupe. 10:8 Cr, AFR 195's, Hydro F/T cam, Vic JR and BG 750. Hooker 2210's, T-350, 4.10's.

Pump gas, frequently driven, full exhaust, no tuning required, new best....


60 ft = 1.61
330 = 4.58
1/8 = 7.060
mph = 99.33
1000 = 9.202
1/4 = 11.01
mph = 124.6

Maybe next time

 

Still cannot complain, that is good and knocking on the door, and then some. Was there possibly any extra weight that you could have removed?

 

Close but no cigar! Next time! Any videos of it driving? Or driving around town?

 

First pass was 11.13 through the mufflers. Seconed pass was 11.05 with the cutouts un capped. Than I relized there was an extra 5 gallon full tank of gas in the trunk along with a 15-20 lbs toolbox. So i took those out and tried leaving a little harder than idle and it spun to a 1.71 60' but ran 125 MPH. Best mph yet and the car was pulling real hard! So last pass I gave it the best I had and went 11.01 off idle and thats when I decided to call it a day. The temp was at 205* and The car doesnt have a tach and feels like it's out of gear. I believe the car has a 10.99999 in it and if not....I am putting on a NX 250 shot anyway. *see thread "2009 season goals" *

 

with a 250 shot that would put you into the 9's. Good luck!

 

its in the 60ft. what tires are you running?? looks like 28".. should be trapping near 6700 rpm..

maybe its either suspension issue or new tires?? IIRC, you are running old tires? i bet a new set of either et streets or radials would bring new life to the 60ft.. a 10 sec car should be 60ft'n in the 1.4-1.5 range.

 

The tires are junk. They were bought used back in 1999 or 2000 and ran on the streets for a season. Than they were taken off and stored till this year. I just borrowed them to see what the car would do. There hard as a rock. I need knew ones.

 

what size engine?

 

Hardly, 10.10's maybe...you start adding that much and you reach a point of using more nitrous than your getting for on track gains until you make the next big jump. adding 150 shot will net you close to a second, after that up until around 300 your just going through the convertor harder and wasting the bottle and not seeing any real gain ET wise.

Sound good, you've got the mph to get into the high 10's once you get smoe traction, 1.4-1.5 is what your shooting for in the 60' for that mph and 10.80's-10.90's

 

yeah you're definetely going to need to have your converter restalled if you want to run a 250 shot. when i was buying my converter, ATI told me that typically you can shoot 125 without having to change converters and anything more would yield less than optimal performance.

 

get the 60's in check and you'll be in the 10's, no problem.

 

I know the car is good for a better 60ft with tires and converter. The converter in there now is a 3300 stall 9.5 inch street/strip. I was not able to get 1800 rpms at the line with out smoking 1st gear up to a 11.1 with 1.71 60'.

I can build a converter( I work at Trans Specialties) that will go 4000+ stall and easily go tens with good tires. But I am holding out because I am going to build a nitrous specific 8 inch with a tight steel stator to be efficient behind the 250-300 hit. The goal was always to go into the 9's. I have a 10 point cage on the floor waiting to go in also.

I just think for right now I need new tires so I can go 10.99 with a better 60ft and be pleased with what I have for this season. Hopefully the buget will look better over the winter for the rest of the stuff.

Anybody feel like the M/T drag radials will get a better 60ft than what I have? Or should I stick with the E.T streets. That is my new concern.

 

28x10.5 ET drag stiff sidewall is what you want

 

Thats what I have now. Shame there 10 years old and useless...

 

go get another set and i'm sure they'll come back around with better times.

 

what's your flywheel hp outa curiousity? and the shop you work at; are they on e-bay? I assume you built your tranny there? also what rear-end do you have.

 

Flexplate HP would be around 485-495 i'm sure. It made 375 to the wheels but I don't know if there was more in it because the dyno guys didn't put to much into it. Just grabbed a number and pulled it off.

The shop I work at is not on Ebay but one of my vendors is....Mike with Grand National Specialties.

I havn't built a tranny yet because the parts I want are very expensive and I will have to pay for them because we do not make them. The trans I have now is working pretty well actually (t-350).

The rear is stock with moser axels, long studs, 4.10's, and moser allum cover with load bolts. I know...it's days are numbered.

 

A stock 9 bolt with 4:10's. I din't even know that was an option. Anyway, that's a flippin bad A$$ time though. maybe there's hope for my car yet.

 

I believe it's a 10 bolt with a 7.5 inch ring gear. It's not stock though, probably Richmond or something.

 

Good runner! 125mph should net you high 10.8s if effecient, right now I calculate your HP at 545 for 3500 lbs car, 702 hp will get you 136 mph and enough for 9's..
My car running high 10's, pumpgas as well with 150 shot, restricted to gaining me about 125hp due to flexline being smaller than jet, yielded me 10.07 @ 133 applying at 15mph. As you know your 60ft is suffering, I would look to gain some mph maybe once you 60ft better also possibly..

 

Get a new rear diff first as you know. As long as you have good parts in the short block you will be able to get your 9 sec pass on spray. I would look at a 10'' converter and a 9'' rear with around a 3.89 gear and 250-300 hp shot will get you in the 9s as long as you can leave on the gas. My old 380ci motor would run 11.00s to 11.10s at only 122mph. and with a 275HP. tune it went 9.70s at 140mph with a soft 1.40 60 ft time so I think off of my past with the right parts you will make it.

 

Thanks guys. I do see a single digit slip post in my future. It doesnt seem impossible.

 

I call tires, then the 60' should improve = 10's

 

Damn! I need to build a bigger motor! My car's got better heads, more compresion, cam, carb, convertor, more gear and still only went 11.70's. I guess the old saw about "there's no replacement for displacement" strikes again. If my 355 wasn't all brand new with good parts, I'd be lookin to do a 383.

 

4.56 are some big gears, maybe you're spinning the motor past peak rpm and that's why it's going slower? Are you running a 29" slick?

 

28x11.5 ET Street. It goes through the lights at about 7000(116mph), which is right at my shift point. Combo is 355ci/12.5:1CR/flat tappet solid(276@.050 & .540 lift/out of the box Track 1's(223cc runner)/Victor Jr/850 carb/4500 convetor/TH350/4.56 gear

 

that combo should be going faster, how do the plugs look? How's the 60'?

 

Plugs look great. Best 60' so far is 1.65. So, I don't know what my problem is.

 

I'd get it on a chassis dyno and try out different timing/jets/etc. Possibly the wrong converter especially for that slow of a 60' with that much stall and gearing. Are you spinning during launch?

 

Part of the problem was that the stock brake booster and m/c were still on the car, but the booster wasn't hooked up. So, I had a hard time holding the car on the convertor and was leaving at 2000. Since the last time out, I've put the Burkhart Manual Brake Conversion on it and I hope that I can leave at a higher rpm and get the 60's down into the mid 1.50's.

 

Forget the 60ft' I would be worried about the MPH. 11.7 is light years away from the tens, with or without a good 60ft. I would do exactly what xpndl said and get it dyno'd. Your combo should out run mine anyday even at 350 Cu In.
I will bet that dynoing it locates an issue and free's up the lost power. That would be my next mod hands down. I think thats one of the reasons mine runs well also. I dont even think of opening the hood at the track. It was tuned to perfection.