View Poll Results: Which setup?
3rd gen Camaro/Firebird, 350, 700R4, 10bolt
5
62.50%
74 Dart, 360, 727, 8.25"
3
37.50%
Voters: 8. You may not vote on this poll
Alright I have been looking around at all sorts of car: A, B, E, G bodies. And looking around my local craigslist the cheapest cars are 3rd gens, suprisingly! There are several $200-600 Bodies that aren't in that bad of shape. My budget is about $2200. So lets say I spend 500 on a body, that is $1700 left over. My dad and I can do almost all work, besides head and cylinder work. You guys my not suggest this, but we have a 360 engine, 727 trans, and 8 1/4 rearend if we went mopar route. But only found one dart for $1200. Now if I got a 3rd gen, what parts should I be looking for? What I am looking for is a car that isn't fast but could be in the long run. I want to go a 350 route, should I find a 350 long block on craigslist or go to a junkyard and pull a block and take it to a machine shop bore it and rebuild the engine? The cars I was looking at had 700R4 transmissions so I think I can just use it. Also for rearend how long will a stock 10-bolt last me. Not a really aggressive engine, so will it do?
I found a 91 V6 camaro, has engine problems.[$500] I also found a Ford 9" 28 spleen possi unit.[$100] 350 4-Bolt engine[$175], not sure how it runs. Would like info on buying an engine/ or should i rebuild one from the junkyard, something out of some new vehicle? Everything else should be able to get out of the junkyard easily.
Total, $775. and then I would need a starter and everything else. Junkyard possibly.
Total, $775. and then I would need a starter and everything else. Junkyard possibly.
Cheap third gens are cheap for a reason. If they have a lot of rust, walk away and spend more for a better body. The ones in better condition fetch a higher price. The cost to fix a lot of rust on a unibody car can make what seems like a good deal, a real money pit.
When I first bought my car, I was originally looking for a G-body. This one cost more than I wanted to spend but was in very good condition. The original L98 engine had already been yanked out and an old school 383 stroker was installed.
The previous owner drove it to my house and I started gutting it to be a race car. I've never driven mine on the street.
The first season, I ran the 383 as it came in the car. It had a 700R4 and a 9 bolt with 3.27 gears. The first season, I managed a 14.0. Over the winter, the smogger heads were yanked off and a set of ported out camel heads with bigger valves were installed. The 700R4 was yanked out and a TH350 with a 3800 stall converter took it's place. The first pass of the second season, I ran a 12.0 and had a 6 point roll bar installed before the next race. I managed to get the car to 11.8 that season still with the 3.27 gears then on the last race of the season, blew the engine beyond repair.
Third year, in went a big block and it pushed a beefed up 10 bolt, which gave me a better gear ratio selection, into the low 11's. I swapped in a TH400 with a transbrake and also switched to a 9" at the same time.
Since the majority of the racing you will do is bracket racing, you don't need to do a lot of changes all at once. Build as your budget allows. When you break something, replace or upgrade to something stronger.
I don't want to know how much I've spent on my car in the last 10 years but as it sits now, I value it at a minimum of $30,000 - $40,000. It can be a lot cheaper to just buy a rolling or turnkey car. A good place to look for race cars is www.racingjunk.com At least since I built mine, I can say it's MY race car and not someone elses.
When I first bought my car, I was originally looking for a G-body. This one cost more than I wanted to spend but was in very good condition. The original L98 engine had already been yanked out and an old school 383 stroker was installed.
The previous owner drove it to my house and I started gutting it to be a race car. I've never driven mine on the street.
The first season, I ran the 383 as it came in the car. It had a 700R4 and a 9 bolt with 3.27 gears. The first season, I managed a 14.0. Over the winter, the smogger heads were yanked off and a set of ported out camel heads with bigger valves were installed. The 700R4 was yanked out and a TH350 with a 3800 stall converter took it's place. The first pass of the second season, I ran a 12.0 and had a 6 point roll bar installed before the next race. I managed to get the car to 11.8 that season still with the 3.27 gears then on the last race of the season, blew the engine beyond repair.
Third year, in went a big block and it pushed a beefed up 10 bolt, which gave me a better gear ratio selection, into the low 11's. I swapped in a TH400 with a transbrake and also switched to a 9" at the same time.
Since the majority of the racing you will do is bracket racing, you don't need to do a lot of changes all at once. Build as your budget allows. When you break something, replace or upgrade to something stronger.
I don't want to know how much I've spent on my car in the last 10 years but as it sits now, I value it at a minimum of $30,000 - $40,000. It can be a lot cheaper to just buy a rolling or turnkey car. A good place to look for race cars is www.racingjunk.com At least since I built mine, I can say it's MY race car and not someone elses.
Member
Well I think it's pretty obvious everyone on here is going to vote for you to go the 3rd gen route. Although i voted that way, if you can get a super cheap dart, then using the engine and trans you already have just might be the way to go, but good luck on that. In reality grabbing that 350, stroking it out and dropping it into a 3rd gen camaro is probably going to be the best way to go.
Supreme Member
If you have a 2,200 budget, spend it on a running v8 thirdgen. Why fix one up and spend alot of money when you can get a legit running Iroc or Trans Am for the same price, and it will be just as good.
Quote:
When I first bought my car, I was originally looking for a G-body. This one cost more than I wanted to spend but was in very good condition. The original L98 engine had already been yanked out and an old school 383 stroker was installed.
The previous owner drove it to my house and I started gutting it to be a race car. I've never driven mine on the street.
The first season, I ran the 383 as it came in the car. It had a 700R4 and a 9 bolt with 3.27 gears. The first season, I managed a 14.0. Over the winter, the smogger heads were yanked off and a set of ported out camel heads with bigger valves were installed. The 700R4 was yanked out and a TH350 with a 3800 stall converter took it's place. The first pass of the second season, I ran a 12.0 and had a 6 point roll bar installed before the next race. I managed to get the car to 11.8 that season still with the 3.27 gears then on the last race of the season, blew the engine beyond repair.
Third year, in went a big block and it pushed a beefed up 10 bolt, which gave me a better gear ratio selection, into the low 11's. I swapped in a TH400 with a transbrake and also switched to a 9" at the same time.
Since the majority of the racing you will do is bracket racing, you don't need to do a lot of changes all at once. Build as your budget allows. When you break something, replace or upgrade to something stronger.
I don't want to know how much I've spent on my car in the last 10 years but as it sits now, I value it at a minimum of $30,000 - $40,000. It can be a lot cheaper to just buy a rolling or turnkey car. A good place to look for race cars is www.racingjunk.com At least since I built mine, I can say it's MY race car and not someone elses.
^ I trust you man I have been looking at your website and stuff. I see what you are saying. The dart sounds like the best idea. Also here is the link for it. Already partial stripped and minitubbed. Originally Posted by Stephen 87 IROC
Cheap third gens are cheap for a reason. If they have a lot of rust, walk away and spend more for a better body. The ones in better condition fetch a higher price. The cost to fix a lot of rust on a unibody car can make what seems like a good deal, a real money pit.When I first bought my car, I was originally looking for a G-body. This one cost more than I wanted to spend but was in very good condition. The original L98 engine had already been yanked out and an old school 383 stroker was installed.
The previous owner drove it to my house and I started gutting it to be a race car. I've never driven mine on the street.
The first season, I ran the 383 as it came in the car. It had a 700R4 and a 9 bolt with 3.27 gears. The first season, I managed a 14.0. Over the winter, the smogger heads were yanked off and a set of ported out camel heads with bigger valves were installed. The 700R4 was yanked out and a TH350 with a 3800 stall converter took it's place. The first pass of the second season, I ran a 12.0 and had a 6 point roll bar installed before the next race. I managed to get the car to 11.8 that season still with the 3.27 gears then on the last race of the season, blew the engine beyond repair.
Third year, in went a big block and it pushed a beefed up 10 bolt, which gave me a better gear ratio selection, into the low 11's. I swapped in a TH400 with a transbrake and also switched to a 9" at the same time.
Since the majority of the racing you will do is bracket racing, you don't need to do a lot of changes all at once. Build as your budget allows. When you break something, replace or upgrade to something stronger.
I don't want to know how much I've spent on my car in the last 10 years but as it sits now, I value it at a minimum of $30,000 - $40,000. It can be a lot cheaper to just buy a rolling or turnkey car. A good place to look for race cars is www.racingjunk.com At least since I built mine, I can say it's MY race car and not someone elses.
http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/1242645933.html
Body looks pretty solid, looks like he fixed some of the rear quarter panel. People over at Forabodiesonly.com suggested to find a late 60's dart. They were much lighter, but this isn't something I am trying to be super fast. Just something I can learn to work on cars with my dad. Something to mess around with and take it to the track every weekend. With a $2200 budget, this car seems like I can deffinetely get it in running condition.(if it isn't already) And stephen, you know your stuff. I just couldn't find any cheap cars around here. But really what I am looking for is just a mopar car body.($$$) Since we can drop that 360 motor, 727 trans, and 8 1/4 Rearend from a '72 charger. The dart seems like a good option since it looks like a fairly strong body, and even if the engine, trans, or rearend are broken, we can replace any of it. If you look at it, he attempted to set it up for racing. Seems like a good buy.
Quote:
True, but seems like a lot more work is going to be the hardest way to go atm.Originally Posted by Camarslow
Well I think it's pretty obvious everyone on here is going to vote for you to go the 3rd gen route. Although i voted that way, if you can get a super cheap dart, then using the engine and trans you already have just might be the way to go, but good luck on that. In reality grabbing that 350, stroking it out and dropping it into a 3rd gen camaro is probably going to be the best way to go. Quote:
That does seem good, but the more I think about it. Buying just a solid mopar body seems like is what I am wanting to do. Sorry GM fans =/ But my dad is all over the board when it comes to cars, novas, gtx's, challengers, cadillacs, hot rods, list could go forever.Originally Posted by Bullydawg
If you have a 2,200 budget, spend it on a running v8 thirdgen. Why fix one up and spend alot of money when you can get a legit running Iroc or Trans Am for the same price, and it will be just as good. Senior Member
That Dart is one ugly mother. However, It looks like its right up the alley of what your looking to do. Hell, I would consider buying it if I was in your shoes.
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IHI
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- Join DateApr 2002
- LocationWaterloo, Iowa
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- Car86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
- Enginepump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
- TransmissionOldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
- Axle/Gears31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
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I look at it in a practical way and i argue with mself all the time and have come to the conclusion the ULTIMATE car to build, is a Fox body with chevy drivetrain/ford rear end. Light car with far too many CHEAP bolt on aftermarket parts, did i mention a light car so you can go faster for less coin? and as for cheap drivetrain parts, chevy wins that war hands down, you can go to the 7-11 and get a complete rebuild kit with your fountain pop.
ANY mopar is going to cost alot of coin to build/maintain....Mopar fans are a diehard breed often tainted from birth not to know any different, and have to fight everytime they do anything because it costs so much for every aspect of the drivetrain...the cars are typically light, so that's a plus, all of them are ugly as sin, that's a negative...but driveline cost/parts availablity is a huge downfall for them, heck, even the slopar guys we race with admit that LOL!!
3rd gens, heavier, maro's and birds more played out than any other car ever made, decent aftermarket but spendy when compared to Fox bodies...typically priced 2-4x's as much over the Fox body components. Suck to work on since packaging is so tight, long noses. but for bracket racing they're killer due to the huge rear window and overall good visability.
My next car body/platform will be a rustang with my driveline in it....i sit here thinking, i coulda been running low 9's on pump gas and easy 8's on a small shot of spray if i had a rustang instead of my tank.
ANY mopar is going to cost alot of coin to build/maintain....Mopar fans are a diehard breed often tainted from birth not to know any different, and have to fight everytime they do anything because it costs so much for every aspect of the drivetrain...the cars are typically light, so that's a plus, all of them are ugly as sin, that's a negative...but driveline cost/parts availablity is a huge downfall for them, heck, even the slopar guys we race with admit that LOL!!
3rd gens, heavier, maro's and birds more played out than any other car ever made, decent aftermarket but spendy when compared to Fox bodies...typically priced 2-4x's as much over the Fox body components. Suck to work on since packaging is so tight, long noses. but for bracket racing they're killer due to the huge rear window and overall good visability.
My next car body/platform will be a rustang with my driveline in it....i sit here thinking, i coulda been running low 9's on pump gas and easy 8's on a small shot of spray if i had a rustang instead of my tank.

If you really want to go fast for cheap, pick up an altered or even an old front engine dragster. Drop a mild SBC in or whatever powertrain you want and run low 10's with no regular maintenance, no chassis certification, no competition license, minimal SFI equipment etc. You're not going to be able to drive it to the track but it's a cheap way to go fast.
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IHI
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- Join DateApr 2002
- LocationWaterloo, Iowa
- Posts:4,671
- iTrader Positive Feedback100
- iTrader Feedback Score(1)
- Car86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
- Enginepump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
- TransmissionOldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
- Axle/Gears31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
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Quote:
Good luck, i've been "looking" at altered's for 3 yrs and am yet to find one that's remotely worth more than scrap price for under $20K rolling...they hold their value much better than dragsters i'm finding out.Originally Posted by Stephen 87 IROC
If you really want to go fast for cheap, pick up an altered or even an old front engine dragster. Drop a mild SBC in or whatever powertrain you want and run low 10's with no regular maintenance, no chassis certification, no competition license, minimal SFI equipment etc. You're not going to be able to drive it to the track but it's a cheap way to go fast. Quote:
Yeah those are some pricey cars. At least I haven't seen one that wasn't near what I was looking for.Originally Posted by IHI
Good luck, i've been "looking" at altered's for 3 yrs and am yet to find one that's remotely worth more than scrap price for under $20K rolling...they hold their value much better than dragsters i'm finding out. Yeah Darts aren't the coolest looking cars but here is a pretty good picture of a nicer one.
http://www.diamondbackengines.com/ma...s74swinger.jpg

