Well I think it has a lot to do with how the car handles and I'd bet if you didn't have the cage it would not leave as well as it does.

 

There are 12 second cars with no roll bar or cage that can launch like that. Although the cage adds some stiffness, it's designed to protect the driver, not act like a chassis.

 

But we aren't talking about 12 sec cars. Your car is about 3 sec faster, that's a bunch of power and torque. I'm well aware of the purpose of the roll cage, but they do contribute to the cars behavior. And one should take advantage of that as much as possible within the rules and without adding undo weight. The way you installed your cage appears hell for stout. I think it's great, maybe a bit more than was needed, but you will never have to worry about your car flexing so much the doors won't close. And you should be safe if things get nasty.


I think you're having fun.
Thanks for posting all those pictures.

Pic of our S10; http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2554547

 

what? come one stephen, how on earth can you say that the cage has nothing to do with the chassis? if you took your cage out of the car, it'd twist so hard it would want to flip over...you're too smart to say something so ignorant.

 

Just curious but I'm using a Innovate LM1 and I was curious what oil PSI and coolant sensor you are using. The wiring looks great Stephen. I'll post up once I finish up wiring the Digital 6 plus and crap in.

 

I'm not sure about the LM-1 but the LM-2 uses transducer sensors. All 4 of it's analog input channels are looking for a 0-5v signal. That's why it's difficult to use a speed sensor which uses frequency. The DL-32 is a much better data logger.

I don't use any temp sensors. I'd modify a GM sensor if I ever decide to record any temperatures. You just need to add a load resistor so that the LM-2 can work with a 2 wire sensor.

Fuel and oil pressure sensors are Autometer. They're 3 wire transducers designed for their pressure gauges. One wire is a common ground, one wire is a 5v ref signal, the last wire is the voltage return signal. They use a standard 3 wire delta shaped plug which can be easily found on many late model GM TPS sensors plus many other transducer sensors.

I use one of these but any 0-100 psi transducer will work
http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105/2246/10002/-1
Here's another similar sensor
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/36011/10002/-1

They have a linear calibration. 0.5v = 0 PSI. 4.5v = 100 PSI.

 

The LM1 uses 0-5v as well. I have the adapter to record other sensors so i was curious.

So you just used 0.5 = 0psi and 4.5= 100psi? I have no clue how to setup the sensors in my Logworks other than the narrowband and the tach signal.

 

The LM-2 records onto a SD memory card which makes it very easy to transfer the data to Logworks. All it records is voltage from the analog channels. O2 and RPM are separate channels. Configuring Logworks isn't hard but some sort of calibration data is needed. I just tell it that the 2 pressure gauges use that calibration. When I had the laptop in the car while the engine was running so I could watch the realtime data, the oil pressure on the gauge in the dash was exactly the same as the oil pressure gauge on the laptop screen.

Some calibrations may be difficult. Using a MAP sensor in my intake to record vaccum is weird. I can calibrate it for just about any reading I want. Logworks just interprets the recorded voltage into something meaningful. I could just leave everything as voltages. With the MAP sensor, I want to use it to detect engine load. At high load, manifold vaccum will drop to zero. At high rpm load decreases and manifold vaccum will go up. Until I get some track time, I won't know what kind of results I'll see. With a 6000 stall converter and shifting at 7400, I doubt I'll see much difference in manifold pressure during a run.

I haven't put an actual vaccum gauge on my intake manifold but according to my current MAP calibration, at an idle, I have around 10 inHG. I can fudge the calibration to make that just about any number. With a MAP sensor, zero pressure can produce just about any voltage. It's an absolute pressure so the output voltage depends on how much ambient air pressure is around the sensor. Zero pressure/vaccum (engine off) at sea level will have a different output voltage than if the car was in Denver. The number itself is a little meaningless. How much it changes based on engine load is all I want to see.

Same goes for the 2 bar MAP sensor I plan on using for the crankcase. How much the voltage fluctuates up or down from a zero pressure voltage will tell me when the crankcase is pressurized or in a vaccum. May also be a good early warning system. If crankcase pressure increasingly gets too high, a head gasket may be blown and putting compression into the crankcase. Could also indicate a burnt piston or bad rings.

 

Great info, thanks for your input and wisdom. I'll be following you and the car this season again for sure.