QA1 quote a few years ago..Hahaaa

I seen the mustang ones on racing junk for 394$ These might fit the bill if they are decent for the price..

no mention of them on the website either...as of yet. This was in my may FSC magazine, I may be late but I didn`t see anyone else post on these yet.

 

nice, nice. deff. good for the guys who want a "bolt in" setup.

You could always buy the mustang ones and mill the spindles , do a little work , etc...to make em fit before.

 

If you go to the "new products" section, the information is there. I don't see any pricing though.

 

mmmm...want...

 

adding this link for people wanting qa1 info if the fbody ones are a sh!tload more $ then the mustag ones.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...nt-struts.html

always seems fbody parts are 10x what fox body parts are.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-HR501K/




Camaro and 2005+ Mustang require QA1 Caster/Camber Plates."

Anyone know where to get the QA1 caster/camber plates? Or is that only required so that you have an upper spring perch, which most of us with aftermarket caster/camber plates already have?

 

Double adjustable shocks would be real nice for drag racing. My Koni SPA1 struts work well but they're not double adjustable.

 

(hs501k)389 for the single adjustable pair.....(hr501k)469 for a coil over bolt in adjustable strut (pair of the "R" for drag racing series) seems fair to me and 669 for the DA pair (hd501K)...especially since the double adjustable rears are 270 each..rebuildable is always good to. So whats a set of Koni`s go for nowadays anyways??

 

$400

http://www.jegs.com/i/Koni/610/87101289SPA1/10002/-1

 

So with both front qa1 struts sitting on either side of the Koni`s price but offering coil over threads and rebuilability seems like these might just take off. Im running the "r" series on the rear of my car and I have to admit I have one after two years that has begun to seep oil, it re buildable but it`s still performing as it did when installed which really allowed me to get into the 1.3`s and high 1.2`s Nice being able to tune for different tracks as well.

 

If I needed a pair, I'd go for it, however, the SPA1's that I currently use work fine. Spending another $400+ just to be able to adjust compression isn't worth it. Although the SPA1 struts only have one adjustment, they are a reactive shock. The valving adjusts itself depending on the load requirements. I don't have any plans on going to a coil over in the near future.

 

unless they did something retarted, i would think you would only need their plates if you are using the struts with the coil-overs springs.

469 is about the same as what the koni yellows usually go for, but they are on sale now some places for 400 even.

they are also cheaper by quite a bit over the varistruts double adjustable struts.

 

Awesome, glad to see they stepped up, although from my experience with QA1's them being rebuildable is not just a nice option, it's a required option.

I've said it before, but I run monroe gas-matics in the front w/ some modified afco coil-over sleeves; 1.1x 60fts on the rears.........lol. Small tire cars need a lot more up front than big tire cars though for sure.

 

****, you say you run modified Afco sleeves... I'm just assuming you mean that you had them turned to a larger inner diameter?

Do you remember how much material you removed from them? I remember trying them once on my struts, didn't fit (they were just a little too small), but I thought they were too thin for me to be comfortable thinning them out more. The walls were only .095" thick, and .145" thick around the threads

But if you've been running them that way for a while, I'd consider using them again

 

i was juuuuust about to buy a set of double adjustable afco's for the rear of my car a few weeks back until i found an issue in the progressive controller's tune. after i found my little mistake, the next pass was a 1.31 60'. very conservative on the progressive. still going to keep my spa-1's, and i think i can hit 1.28 60's on the 275 radials using the current engine.

 

Bingo. We honed one out with a 3-stone rigid, had a buddy turn the other on a lathe. - Not sure how much material we cut out, but obviously nothing too ridiculous since one was done just with a hone. - I am running one of the smallest bodied front struts available though, just monroe gas-matics. lol

They were on our '68 for over a season with the blower combo, even went through the crash which snapped the strut rods off. They've been on the '86 for a couple years now and it leaves pretty hard.

struts/sleeves:

 

can these be used for handling purposes?would i just need a different spring rate?and are they height adjustable,if so do you just spin the spindle mount till its lower like most coilovers?

 

For handling you would want the Tokico or the Koni adjustables; if you want coil-overs you would need to run a conversion kit.

These are designed for drag race and have correspondingly different valving.

 

It says they are revalveable though

 

new hear and seems to be a decent place to go for answers....looking for some help...have a new built 87 4 link back/half car 540 and turbo 400...kept stock front suspension for rules...problem is car leavs like a animal 2 ft wheel stands even on foot brake. chassis shop set it up this way for the super stock look which was fine but problem is the preverbial bouncy bouncy half way down the track. front end is tied down with liniters...want to know the best route or at least proven route to eliminate the bounce...looking at the koni's or qa1 but the qa1's are not aval through summit yet and no where can i find the caster plate they show as being required,,,any recomendations would be appriciated....my email is macknme44090@gmail.com and dont mind phone advise either...thanks george

 

funny stuff.
i just saw the struts in one of the big mags.
they cost a fortune and id never own a qa1 shock or strut.
like **** said, being rebuildable is a requirement.

im very happy with my strange/stang setup.
if i ever had to do it over, i would go with the varishocks since they are available again, but they are up there in price too.

a little machining and labor, and the mustang stuff is a no brainer. even better if you get the parts used, or can do the work yourself.

 

not sure if you'll ever check back(being as though that was your first/only post) but you don't need to be looking in the front, you need to be looking out back. - The 4-link needs to be re-set.

I will never deal with another set of the strange mustang struts. My buddy's stang just killed it's 4th set; none of them have lasted over 6-8k miles, this last set was 90% track only, and had travel limiters. They currently have 3-4 clicks of adjustment(won't turn any further) and will re-adjust themselves during a pass. We're switching his to the Koni SP1's.

 

well thats no good.
i play with my rears here and there to adjust for track conditions. the more clicks you go, the more you have to concentrate on the adjustment to make sure its "clicked" to the next spot.
i dont mess with the fronts hardly at all. my car doesnt seem to respond as well with a front adjustment.
may be my LCA angle or my torque arm setup.

 

The mustang 4-link is kind of pissy about the front adjustment. His car being a manual trans on dr's is even more so; if they're too soft it will upset the car and unload the tires 5-10' out. So far we've gotten consistent bottom 1.5 60fts out of it on 275/50 dr's, last track outing it wouldn't do better than a high 1.6; it was unloading right after the hit. The struts turned out to be the culprit.