That's the good news. The bad news is when it came.

Was running in 3 classes today (special race). Air was cool, barometric pressure high, humidity not low but not really high. Consistent 60' & ET, decent RT's (including a .001 and .004) through first 4 time trials, life was looking good. Even ran a new best ET and MPH at altitude (12.930 @ 106.2) Then 60' started dropping off, but air was getting worse as the day warmed up, didn't think anything about it. First class, first round, dialed 13.10, a hun off what it ran last TT, but 60' got better again, tried to back off at the top end but broke out by .034 sec. Next class, first round, dialed down to 13.05, 60' was back to slow mode, but the other guy was way off his dial - except I backed off too soon, and he took the stripe. Still, 1000' indicated it would have been close to what I dialed. 3rd class, first round, it was getting cooler, so I took a couple hun more off my dial-in to a 13.03. 60' suddenly went from "stun" to "kill", one of the best of the day - I didn't want the faster car in the other lane to go around me so I stayed in it too long, ran a 12.929 @ 105; other guy broke out too, but by much less.

Good news: New best ET & MPH. Bad news, haven't won a round in this car since Sept 12, even though I've raced at least 2 days of every weekend since. Either it picks way up on me and I break out, or I give back (or like today, don't take) the stripe.

This is getting a bit frustrating. Seems like the car should be coming around, but there's still something, either about the car or my driving, that is making the 60' inconsistent. About all I know is it is not slipping the tires at the hit, and I have been very meticulous about my staging consistency. Either the brakes aren't holding when I stall up and I'm not feeling it (using a 2-step tied to the brake light switch, but I have to double-pump the brakes while holding the line lock to get the brakes to hold), or the 2-step isn't being released consistently. Or both (wouldn't surprise me).

 

i know a guy here who put a 2 step on his brake light switch and had all sorts of problems, perhaps a microswitch like you'd use for a WOT switch for nitrous would be a better option?

 

brake light switch is dependent on how far down you push the pedal to have it come back up slowly and release the 2 step. If you stand the brakes harder it'll take more time to come back up.

 

That is a possibility, but I don't like the idea of dumping unburnt fuel at full throttle. I just open the throttle enough to engage the 2-step.
True. The double-pump technique helped a lot to make it more consistent. I had the 2-step connected to the '57 brake light switch for several seasons, worked great.

I did a little better today. Actually won first round in 2 classes, and 3rd round in one of those two. Felt good to see the win light in my lane again.