How did you guys return the fuel into your stock sumped tanks?

I will either tig weld the #6 steel fitting onto the top of the tank or onto one of the origanal lines comming from the sending unit.

Any ideas or pictures?



*updates later in thread*

 

I just got a piece that connected onto the original feed line comming out of the sending unit and it converted it to I believe -6 AN. I also took the original fuel pump out of course too. Havent hooked up a return line yet I just capped the piece for now but I knew I would need it in the future. This wasnt the brand I got but this is the type of piece I used. http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%...65006/10002/-1

 

I'd think that just dumping it from the top would encourage aeration. Can't you just run it to a fitting in the sump?

 

I did it a while ago so now you got me thinking but doesnt the stock feed tube with the pump off of it go down a decent amount into the tank?

 

Cool piece. Never seen that. Its basicly what i'm doing accept i'm welding my number 6 fitting directly to the line for the same result.

 

It does

 

I just had a 90* steel -8 to 1/2 npt steel fitting welded to the top of my stock, sumped tank about 4" from the access hole towards the right standing from the back of the car. All the stock cluster f**ck of metal hard lines are gone, only 2 -8 lines run under my car for feed and return, external pump and filter of course....easy to get to everything!

 

I had a fitting welded in near the top of my tank facing toward the front of the car. I used braided lines on my fuel system, I hate bending steel fuel lines.

 

jbenge, you were the one that sent me pics a couple years ago of your setup and i pretty much duplicated it!! sumped stock tank, aeromotive SS pump and all, -8 feed/return...works flawlessly, if it wasn't so damn cold, i'd go out in the garage and jack it up and shoot some pics...you'd be proud lol.

 

i used my factory feed line as the return. no issues so far.

 

Hey Matt, that aeromotive SS pump you sold me was the best $100 i've spent!!

 

Sweet! Glad my pics helped you out, I'm still using the same setup too.

 

man that makes me smile! i'm so glad it's working well still! i'm running a Tsunami now.

 

Areation is over rated unless your fuel foams like diesel. I put 3 gallons in my cell and watched it circulate for a while. Each bubble rose to the top immediately. The bubbles never sank. It maybe a problem with 1-2 gallon fuel cells when they are real low but I would never want my fuel that low anyways.

 

Matt, I go on 2hr long(one way) cruises all the time in the summer with my local thirdgen club and then to the track and that pump doesn't skip a beat!

 

aeromotive makes amazing products, i won't use anything else for fuel system stuff from now on...the old saying "you get what you pay for" is true

 

welded a fitting to the top of the tank here

 

Where is the fitting welded? I imagine the top front of the tank in front of the sending unit?

Can you hear the fluid returning into the tank when the key is foward and engine off?

 

same here.

 

i believe it is infront of the sending unit...HOWEVER, i havent taken the tank out in a little bit, if i remember correctly it kinda angles downward twoards the front of the vehicle correct? That's where i wish i'd have put it lol. I put mine on the top top part, which is fine until you try to fit a 90 hose end fitting ontop of it lol. Nothin a little hammering (to the floor not the tank) couldn't fit, wouldn't even be noticeable with carpet on it but still, the fits a little tighter than i'd like it to be.

What key?

No i can't hear it...but i can't hear myself think in there either so....

 

I ended up putting it on the passenger side of the tank at the very top. Should work out fine and there's a ton of room between the tank and body.


*Problem! I think I lost the black rubber O-ring around the sending unit. Where can I get another one???

 

any auto parts store can get one. Dorman/motormite makes a kit.

 

i got mine from advance, but they are not in an easy to find spot in the computer system. yo you are better off looking it up online and giving them a part#.

im finally going to put a sumped tank in my car this winter. i plan on using the factory feed line for my return. its already got a #6 brazed onto it ready to go.

 

Thanks guys. My brothers looking for one for me now. Only thing is that the car is an '86 Sport Coupe and we don't know if it was an origanal V-8 or V-6 or carbed or FI? Hope there not to many different options. I'll post pics. The sump turned out real good and should really get the job done.

 

that seal is the same regardless

 

Hope your right.

 

Here is the finished progress of the sump. I think it turned out good. I payed $57 for it on Ebay.







In this picture you can see the sump just peeking out while installed. You can also see my new-ish Moser 9 inch with 3.50 gears all fresh.





Here is where I ended welding the #6 return fitting to the tank. It fits in the body great here.




HEre is where I deleted all the unwanted lines. I hammered them closed and welded the ends






HEre is the way the interior has been sitting because I havn't been able to access it with the rear apart and out of the car. The guages and roll cage are all new. I can't wait to get the car back out and finish it up.

 

saweet! lookin' good justin!

 

dumb question. i have dropped many tanks with a 9 and 10 bolt rearend and didnt have to completely unhook the rearend. just shocks and sway bar and the fuel tank slides out.

what am i going to have to do with my 9"? by the looks of your pic, it might have been in the way.
haha.

 

i only had to disconnect the shocks, panhard, sway bar and unbolt the brake line bracket from the body, usual stuff. Tank still comes out no problem with a 9", you still want to have the rear of the car up as high as possible.

 

The car had a 10 bolt in it. I got rid of the 10 bolt and than removed the tank. I put the tank back in and than installed this 9 inch. Not sure how much room is between the tank and rear.

I am having a problem with this new Founders Panhard bar though. IT's been beating me up all moring. I can get both sides to get in place to get the bolts in. I'm gonna try greasing them up real good.

86TA....Any chance you still have those brackets? I havn't got a set yet. I was just putting it off and now I actually need them.

 

you can try to take a big adjustable wrench or a ball peen hammer to open up the bracket on the rearend.
lot of times it gets torqued when the bar is tightened and it can be a pain to get it back in.
if thats the problem you are having.
good luck.

 

I ended up greasing up the poly area and the panhard bar went into place. Was a pain though for sure.


I got the whole job done and the car on the ground but now it won't move an inch! The car will rock a little but just will not budge.

Here is what I think the problem can be:

1. E-brake over tightened ( went back and loosened, didn't fix)
2. brake system dry and brakes applied?
3. Torque Arm installed but not the trans X-member(maybe hitting the floor)?
4. New spool just this hard to push???

I'm gonna jack the rear up and try to spin the wheels. Just ran out of time. One thing I have to say is that changing a rear and gas tank on your back after not touching the car for a few months can really take a toll on you. I'm sore as anything.

 

if you didnt have the wheels perfectly strait, its a BITCH to push a car with a spool.

 

Feels like it is caught up on something though. Like it rocks but the wheels havn't budged

 

Sure there isn't something chocking the wheel that you may have forgotten?

Nice work on the tank. Even using silicon bronze rod i ended up with a few small cracks in the tank right next to the weld...i think it might have been due to chinese reproduction tank i have being paper thin.

Do you think the return line will be hard to hook up with the fitting there? I spaced my tank down about 1" and ran my -8 return and rollover vent (i dont have the stock sending unit-thats all been long gone) to the top of the tank, near the sender.

 

I was actually hammered from that job yesterday and threw in the towel when it didnt move. I am going to diagnose it further today or tommorow. Hopefully something is chucked. The garage is so tight it hard to move around and look.

I looked around for a bit for a good place for that fitting could go. That is the highest point available and there is about 3-4 inches of space between the frame and the fitting. It's pretty high so I may either have to bring the tank down a tad or use a very long wrench. I may just make a tool for it. Weld a long thin square tube to a wrench and have it forever.

 

Aeration is only "over rated" if your combo doesn't require a lot of fuel. I return to the top, but run a tube inside that goes down within 2-3" of the bottom.

Fast - It's easily possible that the front brakes are stuck from sitting. A little film rust built up on the rotors will chock the pads in place.

 

i think i am going to use my stock pickup line as my return. it already has an AN fitting welded to the line on the framerail currently.
when i pull the tank im just going to cut the pickup tube in the sending unit so it doesnt go all the way to the bottom, but then again, ill have a sump, so i could just leave it be.
may cut it a few inches just cause.
i dunno.

 

Not having the pump on it will make it an inch or so above the bottom of the tank, so that plus the sump should do you fine. - Aeration isn't really a problem until you get into smaller tanks and really big power, but it never hurts to prevent/limit it either.

 

i run an external pump currently. the stock tube has been cut out and a 1/2 tube has been brazed in its place. its the same length total as if a in tank pump was in place. the tube is just under the bracket that holds the pump. its been forever.

 

I was going to use the original feed for the return also. I was all ready to weld the fitting on it until I realized that it goes down into the tank. I could have cut it down as you suggested but you will loose the fuel level sending unit which I still use. That was the whole reason I went sump over cell.

 

im not sure what you mean. the factory feed line used as a return shouldnt have anything to do with the fuel gauge. the float is all on its own. help me here if im wrong. i like my gauges to work too.

 

Hmm, I could always be wrong but I just had this stuff all out and it's fresh in my head. The factory feed line has a long tube that goes all the way down into the tank. 3/4 of the way down there is an orange float devide with the arm that is connected to that tube and a sensor (with wire) that sends signal to the fuel guage. If you cut the tube down your gonna sacrifice that level sending unit contraption. That why I decided to just leave it be and put the fitting at the top of the tank.

 

ill have to decide when i get it all apart. i may just leave it alone but still use it as a return. the sumper will be a couple inches lower than the factory feed line anyway.
hope it works out.

 

Same here, using stock feed as return and all good.. I have run tank rather low before with no issues I have felt.

 

Took the wheels off and found out that the new calipers are hitting the wheels real bad. Guess I'm gonna have to ground the corner fins off the calipers???

 

are you using ls1 brakes? if so then yes

 

ah. calipers. this wouldnt have been my 1st guess.
all you have to do is put it up on stands, warm the motor up, then put it on the limiter in high gear for a few mintues. it will eat thru the wheel and caliper and either work or wont.
on second thought, dont even worry about warming up the motor, its gonna scatter anyway. no since wasting time.

the smell of burnt oil and aluminum will be awesome.

seriously though, its a good thing the calipers are touching and not a bearing in the center section or something stupid that takes weeks to track down.
been there.

 

Even with my LS1 rears ground down, the Greg Weld wheels i had would not fit. Sucked pretty bad because i really like them.

Going to sump a extra stock tank for my 86 TA turbo project. It is from a 85 IROC, not that it matters.

Matt, where did you score your Aeromotive parts? I pretty much need a A1000 or better for my TA and i am trying to see how good of a deal i can get.