Well it's that time of the year again. Time to start a new thread to find out what kind of goal you intend to set for the 2011 racing season. Make it something obtainable.

Setting new personal bests? Winning an event? Making it through the season without breaking anything? Making it out to at least one race?

I'm doing a cam swap this winter. I've already installed a rear wing and have a few other minor changes planned. For the 2011 season, I'm still trying to get an 8 second timeslip at altitude. The only other goal is to make it through another season without breaking anything major. I'd like to travel to at least one other track in 2011. It'll all depend on the weather and finances. 2010 was a cold, wet season. It's amazing we had much of a season at all.

 

Personally, i want a 6.9xx 1/8th mile pass on motor, i have a 7.5 best slipping the clutch, if i manage to launch on the two step without bog, i think a 7.3 minimal is attainable, then, removing the front sway bar and impact bar might net a bit more with the addition to some ported 243 heads(and any other weight i might be able to ditch), perhaps the skinnies on the front will help as well, i think that would be good for 2-3 tenths, so a 7.0 to 6.9 should be there, and if i lose some weight, it would get even better, but if i have to, i will stick a friend of mine who can drive his *** off at 115 pounds and that alone will be roughly a 200 pound drop, if it didnt go 6.9xx or faster then, i just have to give up will the next motor then shoot for way faster than 6.9.

 

wanna get some auto-x in this year and some drift events..the local track does it all

 

Well i dont drag race but i race circle track and i would love to win an A main this season and finish 5th in the season points. I race at all american speedway in roseville. Maybe change the cam in it for a little different power band. I wanna get Vortec heads to. This is my goal for the 2011 season.

 

hopin to get my mid 15 sec LB9 to mid to low 14s

 

What are the restrictions to being able to have a iron LS engine? (5.3/6.0) Seems it would be fun, i know of 1 dirt track guy that runs a 4.8 and runs it as a spec car, but cannot compete in any events.

 

as long as the motor came from the factory cast iron and was mass produced i dont see why not. the have bore and stroke rules and no aluminum heads but i believe i could run that. basically the motor i have now is a 350 SBC 30 over flat top mahle pistons balanced, 5.7 rods balanced, scat crank balanced, howard cam 500 int 510 eht solid flat tappet, dubble roller timing chain. Cammel hump heads 2.02 int 1.60 eht scorpion roller rockers, edelbrock performer 2101 intake and a holley 500 cfm carb. what i have done already other than vortec heads is max i can do as far as that setup. but yeah it would be interesting to do a iron LS motor.

 

I havent done much reaserch on the LS motors but as long as there is iron heads i can bolt on in and can put a 2bbl carb on it i dont see why i couldnt.

 

Ok, the MSD 6010 box can controll the ignition, if you have to run a distributor there is a conversion kit. Then the heads from the 99 6.0 are iron, otherwise, there are no other rion LS heads, LOL. They flow ok and can rev to 7000 easily with cam only.

 

ok sweet and yes i have to run a distributor. ignition boxes are iligal. i can run race gas, E85 or Alky. about what will it cost to get a motor like that done? the motor i have now spins 7200 all day with a 2bbl. ill post a pic of the motor in my car in a few mins but this one is just abare with no internals.

 

I'm shooting for 11's in 2011!

 

here are some pix from the beginning of the 2010 season.

 

Shooting for the 10's

 

That is the crappy part man, upside is the iron heads are damn near given away, but the distributor conversion is around 600$, plus a ford distributor, intake is only 270$, the 5.3 can be had for peanuts, a 6.0 is anywhere from 300 for a short block to 1200 on up for a long block, the valve train is so light though that no one usually upgrades from stock unless they plan on way over 7000 or the just go up in valve size.

 

i would like to win a race this year. i have no ET goals, other than run a 10.90 index class in the summer heat. any kind of personal best will be made during test and tune only and would require some money spent that i don't want to do.

 

hmmmm ok well we can keep it quiet and do the coil packs. what kinda computer runs the motor tho? and can i get a circle track pan for the block? Whats the flow numbers and cc on those iron heads any way? man i would love to try this combo out there.

 

The ignition controller is PN# 6010 for 310$, if you want to run the coil packs, it also has a 2 step rev limiter and timing retard built it, a lap tp will allow you to set the timing hwo you wan as well as other settings. The heads flow about 240 or so on the intake with stock 8.. 2 inch valves, the chambers are 72 cc.

 

Ok sweet ill look into it. i need to find a short block somewhere first. and a pair of heads. then a carb intake. nother question can i bolt a powerglide to it?

 

To get through the season without breaking anything. Make the stage at the awards banquet.

 

Maybe my car seeing the light of day and maybe just maybe getting it to the track.

 

getting the 700r4 rebuilt, doing a painless 18 curcuit gm wire harness through the entire car, and either an 8 or 10 point cage

 

Baseline the new car and hope for bottom 12's.
Then do exhaust and intake mods and look for improvement. I see a couple or more tenths of potential there.
The plan last year was to drive cross country and have a run or two in Edmonton and/or Calgary. Maybe 2011...

 

Powerglide? Absolutely

 

Finish building my car and taking it to the track.

 

11.99999, now that the big plans for the engine got put on hold. Ohterwise, just trying to keep my average package under .040.

 

may 7th we should have cordova rented out again, if you were interested....


my goals.....nothing much, maybe cruise the car more. Can't afford to make any real upgrades besides the front coilovers/caster-camber plates I just swapped on. Maybe a mini-tub, and motor plate, we'll see what happens.

 

I would like to get my reaction times a little better other than that a win would be nice too.

 

ok sweet thanks for the idea man ill look into it and see what it takes to get it completely finished. got any idea on what HP it might make. My motor right now makes 422 HP at the crank.

 

The main goal would be to not hurt at least major parts as I seem to do far too often. Otherwise, my goals are about the same as last years since not much progress was made. I'm trying twin turbos instead of a big single and rear mounting them. I'm looking for little better spooling and lots more traction so my 147mph can go with an 8.90 e.t. instead of the 10.0's I was stuck with last season. I've had a couple ideas for variable cam timing that could also help out spooling while keeping top end power that I'd like to do too.

 

Average?? I don't think I've had a package under .040 in 3 years now.

I would like to get at least one more perfect light this year. Having 2 in one day last year was just a fluke. Running right on my dial would be a bonus anytime during the season.

 

sorry for the newby question, what is a "package"? combo of (reaction time + time off of your dial in) ?

my goal for this season is to get my suspension setup to work to 1.8 60's on 18" drag radials with a 6 speed . best 60 so far is 2.06 i'm just getting started!

 

Correct. If you have a 0.010 reaction time and run 12.010 on a 12.000 dial, the reaction time plus how far you're off the dial would be a 0.020 package. The package is only during eliminations since you don't have a dial in any other time.

My best package so far has been 0.027 back in 2007. I had a reaction time of 0.011 and ran 9.856 on a 9.84 dial in.

Some of the serious racers who run the entire circuit can have regular packages less than 0.010. They can continually cut a good light and know exactly what the car will run and that's not easy.

 

My goal, get to the track more than once.

 

Well, my 89 with the weight and ET calculator with stock long block with cam, springs and pushrods said 540 flywheel HP out of the 9.5 to 1 6.0 from the junk yard, if that gives you a idea.

 

Hopefully this weekend schedule is about over and I can make it up.

Alky,

My car normally runs within .02, so it's up to me and my sloth like reflexes to get the job done. I figure if I can shoot for that package number I should be able to take home a few "W"'s this year.

 

i wanna run a 12.71 ( what my 05 srt4 with a 50 trim run ) or better by the time the track closes in oct.

 

Get out to race more than 1 time this year...thats my goal.

i fixed my overheating issue late summer/fall 2010. Did some maintenance on the motor this winter so I should have no more problems I hope. If all goes well, I just want to get the car on the dyno a few times and really dial in the tune. I think there is soo much left in it if I could only dial it all in.

Upgraded to larger 70mm turbos so I hope it easily goes mid high 9's off the footbrake with no issue. Then its time for full cage

 

Damn, that reminds me of the other goal, finish the single turbo project on my 86 TA.

 

I've got two goals, get in the 14s on my 305 and get my 350 built and in before the season finishes.

 

Make use of my 25.5 on evey pass this year.

 

i would like to get my car fixed first then to the track for an airport 1/8 or an actual 1/4

 

I'll have to back and recheck my logs to see how bad my package was last year. Many times I got a win against a red light or a breakout so it didn't matter how bad my reaction time was or how far off I was at the dial.

 

My goal would be to get my engine finished and running.

Also make a decision on running methanol. Engine builder advises against it.

 

Engine builder has probably never used it. I won't switch back to gasoline.

 

Seriously, the tuning window on eth/meth/alch and even E85 creates such a larger tuning window for error, really helps when you have high dollar arts you dont want to destroy.

 

depends on the combo. judging by the rest of the car, i'd say his engine builder is worried that it'll require so much fuel volume that he may have problems with cylinder wash down and oil contamination with methanol. there are issues with running a huge HP combo with methanol that even you haven't run into yet cause you don't make the power stephen.

with the oxygenated fuel available today with all the power that can be made with that, i'd be up in the air on what to do too...

daverr, are you going with EFI? i would assume that it would be an EFI/turbo combo with the classes you've mentioned.

 

I wouldn't recommend methanol for a daily driver but for a race only engine, it's fine. Methanol will run fine on 8:1 compression but somewhere in the 13-14 range is best. If you're washing down your cylinders, you're running way too rich. My oil is still clean from last year and I run injection which is worse for dumping fuel into the cylinders than a carb is.

I see nothing in the thread stating anything about his engine.

 

there is nothing in this thread about his engine, but if you pay attention to other threads on here, he hints at the combo some. i know what classes he's looking at running, and what he needs in order to be competitive in those classes, as a result, i can kinda derive what he'll likely be running. i may be way off base, but i'm pretty sure it's not a high compression big cube na motor with a carb.

 

ya those crazy chicago guys who keep their combos secret


oh wait.....

 

Yes i will be running EFI. Im thinking of adding a second set of injectors for methanol.

I`ll be running a sbc with about 9.5:1 compression ratio. mainly i want to run methanol because i see it could simplify my setup. Like run a smaller radiator, get rid of the intercooler even though i already have one.

My car is strip only. Washing down cylinders and diluting the oil was the main argument point of my engine builder. I will be monitoring my fuel ratio with dual o2 sensors. How do you monitor your fuel ratio???