It is a sniper system, I have 55 nitrous and 61 fuel, so I will try 71 nitrous and 63 fuel, that is the 150 shot pills swapped In reverse.

 

55/61 was for sure way fat, that would still be notably fat reversed. - Sounds like you have one of the old jetting charts.

How are you setting your fuel pressure for the kit? Seperate regulator or just T'd off the carb?

Assuming proper fuel flow, 71/63 should be a good base-line. It will make more power than what your book shows for a 71n pill as it will be a lot cleaner.

 

Separate fuel call, holley blue pump and regulator at 6 pounds, i probably need to drop it down, but i just threw it on to crack that cobras ***.

 

Forgot, that the plug swap might have changed the A/F ratio, i did notice after i swapped to the super victor it is between 11.5 and 12.5 now, so i need to re jet again.

Old Vic Jr:



New Super Vic:











I am guessing when i test it out on the first, i will see if ti picks up or loses on motor, if it lost or stayed even, i could assume the colder plugs were the culprit, since it is already richer.

Intake ports look good for a year of beating:

 

STILL with that rubber fuel hose.....


what kind of track lets you race with 4 feet of it....wow!

 

Still on a budget. And they dont pop the hood to tech cars that are street rides. Not till you are running really fast anyway.

This thing is running kind of shitty at cruise speed, i will probably be tuning my ace off when i get up today, get her back where she was and get the nitrous dialed in. Might get the damn bottle heater installed as well.

 

i would lose the rubber lines and the go to a bigger air cleaner. i like the headers... stainless?

 

the rules at the track are there for a reason......that's a hell of a lot of rubber line...at least run some hard line (dirt cheap) over to the motor and put short pieces of rubber in to attach and soak up vibrations

 

What is the point of a bigger air cleaner besides looks? Of course the headers are stainless works.

Never read the track rules besides the required safety equipment to run x.xx fast. One day i will run stainless braided line just for you guys(even though the braided steel is just sitting over rubber line anyway).

 

Bigger air cleaner and better material such as a K&N will flow better air. Plus like you said look a lot nicer then that POS you have now. (no offense) lol

 

think about it this way, how much surface area is on that dinky air cleaner vs a 14"x3" with a top that's all element....

 

difference between that small air filter and a 14x3 K&N on a buddies car was 12 rwhp.


yes....that much


AND nhra rules are no more than 12" TOTAL rubber line in the entire fuel system, i'd say you have at least 4 times that if not more of it in the rear of the car too

 

Well, good thing that they dont look then.


As for you guys air cleaner theory, i ran back to back with that thing on and off, ZERO gain or loss with or without, so if i get a different air cleaner(which i will when i feel like it), it will be for cosmetic gain, right now it is not holding back any or i would have swapped it already.

 

did you change the jetting because of the massive amount of air getting past with no filter compared to that little thing? Otherwise there may not have been a noticeable gain since a/f ratio changed also. Most times finding 10 hp here or there won't show up at the dragstrip though

 

Nope, wide band picked up no difference In Air/fuel reading.

 

you're right, that little filter is just fine.

 

braided stainless is NOT just rubber hose with a lining of stainless over it...have you ever held real quality aeroquip line before? or just some garbage mr. gasket junk you get at the parts store?

 

Depending on the carb design, venturi type... pulling the air filter off may actually result in less airflow, the cleaner base tends to straighten out the airflow and most were designed for the flow to come from the sides rather than the top. Same thing can happen with the K&N type filter lids that allow flow to come from the top. A bigger, better flowing filter should make your car go faster.

As far as the rest of this... I'm not sure that I agree with much of what was posted here. It obviously works with some of the faster cars out there, but a race car running a big shot is going to do different things than something running a 100-150shot.

Timing when spraying- the reason that most old school kits recommend retarding it is that when spraying the engine becomes less timing sensitive WRT to power production, so retarding it a few degrees from optimum will hurt power much less than NA, and detonation will hurt an engine much more with a power adder, so retard it a few degrees just to make sure is usually the recommendations from the manufacturers. If the car wasn't detonating without spray, usually a 100-150hp shot will not cause it to either (I've run as much as a 250hp shot without significant timing retard, and I've never hurt an engine with spray; clutches, rears... are another story).

Running rich isn't going to hurt much besides power production until you get to the point where you're washing down the cylinder walls. The other side of that is that most setups recommend jetting that ends up rich, again, just to be safe, mostly since tons of people slap them on without proper fuel delivery and the oversize jets tend to keep the idiots from blowing up their engine right away and getting a bad reputation for their product blowing up engines. That said, there is also no reason to consider going richer than recommended, and if you have a good fuel system there is power to be had by going leaner.

Reading plugs means next to nothing on a street car. You might be able to see bad detonation, but that's about it. Unless you can make a pass, shut down as you cross the line and get it towed back to the pits and pull the plugs you won't get a good reading from plugs.

WBO2 can go both ways... If everything is working right then it's a fine way to tune. If you have any distribution problems then you will end up with an average tune that looks good but one end could be lean enough to destroy parts and the other end could be rich enough to wash down the cylinder walls...

I'm with everyone else on the rubber lines...
- they aren't track legal
- they aren't abrasion resistant
- they aren't heat resistant
when that zip tie lets go (or when the zip tie rubs through the lines) and they land on something hot or moving and your car burns down you'll reconsider the $10-30 you saved by not going with hard lines or braided.

 

probably wont hurt anything on the smaller shot sizes, but too much fuel will lift ring lands on the pistons.
on the timing issue, i ruined both head gaskets on my LS1 with a 100 shot by not pulling any timing.

 

Diggler, was that a dry or wet kit? I hit a stock L98 with a 100 for a while before it spun a rod bearing, i didnt pull timing, didnt run a colder plug, just threw 93 in the tank, but then again, we are talking about two completely different compression engines.

 

Your right, IDK what the hell i was thinking about, i have several foot of braided line hanging in the garage right now, but it is from the military, they said it was not compatable with fuel, the stuff i have for some reason, it is hard plastic line with a rubber coating, they said i should only use it on transmissions ect.

 

If it was 10$-30$, i might have used the stuff, but the line, fittings ect, arent that cheap, then there is the new line for the carb as well, that stuff adds up. There are no moving parts for the line to be rubbing on and the zip ties just keep the lines together in general, no pressure is on them and the lines slip in and out as i need them to. I always check the lines as well, but your right, they are not the safest thing, but that is all i have. I would like the braided line, but i am on a budget.





Now, asides from the off topic fuel line issue, i am assuming a 12.5 A/F ratio is what i should be looking for? I think the colder plugs are already burning less fuel than the TR5s, it is running 11.5-12.0 since the plug and intake swap, so i will be jetting down on the carb till i get 12.5-13.5 back, then start swapping nitrous jets to get the same, which might be interesting spraying in the 100 octane aviation fuel.

 

so what everyone is saying is go buy 6' of aeroquip lines and fittings and build the system safely first

 

did you not see my post about using hard line across there? couple bucks at the parts store and it'll be WAY safer than all that rubber line. just use a small bit of rubber between the hard line and the carb to soak up the vibrations

 

Yea, i would need a tubing bender and all that as well right? I was looking at the hard line for the 86 TA when the A1000 goes on. But they said it was not for over 25 PSI, the stuff i was looking at anyway.

 

use regular 3/8 brake line.....bend with your hands or wrenches. really easy, way safer than your setup. and only gonna cost a few bucks


one hell of a lot cheaper than burning your **** to the ground

 

That will happen one day im sure, but right now, i am spending what little money i have here and there on parts that will make the cars run. If the line and fittings were cheap i would have them already.

 

yes because i'd rather have two separate cars built poorly than one at a time built properly

i think i need to give you a huge sometime lol

 

wet kit. the guy that tuned it put more timing in it than needed, i believe. i was rolling down the hwy, hit the button and saw smoke in the rearview. pulled over, popped the hood, and the engine compartment was covered in coolant. doh.

after that i swapped the shitty stage II patriots out for some stock 243's and a slightly different cam. car made more power with a stock exhaust than it did with 3" duals with an x pipe.

 

Damn man, that is pretty sorry on the tuners part.

 

Thanks for the insult, and i dont want a huge from you that sounds gay.


Really would be nice to get some feedback ON topic.

 

no insult just don't see how you're on a budget yet building 2 cars at once, how about complete one correctly then move to the next?

go spray it, put fresh plugs in, tow it to the line, make a pass, change the plugs at the return road and post pics....then you'll get feedback on how it looks. Not what the wideband tells you

edit: it's under $10 total to add some 3/8" brake line in between those pieces so there isn't such a huge risk for a fire hazard. You know how many people have burnt their car to the ground because of that much fuel line that "looks fine" on the outside? I'd hate to have you in the lane next to me and it lets loose and you jerk the wheel into my car while your car is a giant road flare of flames. You'd get booted out of a nhra tech'd track and I feel safer racing at those kind of places for this very reason.

 

Well, the nhra tracks here dont check under the hood of s BS street car unless try start running fast enough to require allot of safety equipment.

And assuming I would be anywhere near your car if it cought on cure has me wondering what you run... Lol

 

14.2 @ 92 on a really good day with a tail wind

 

your tech guys blow........ours checks under the hood of every car that comes though.

 

Evidently, guess they are lazy. Never once have I had to pop the hood on my or any friends street cars.


Daaaaaammmn!!!!

 

zane, be sensible dude...put some frickin real hose on that thing so you don't have a fire. i'm with steve...build the damn car right/safe the first time and you'll never have a reliability issue, and will cost you less money in the long run. put the 5.3 car away for a minute and get the safety issues figured out on the 89 first.

 

agreed. you should never sacrifice safety because you're trying to have more than 1 toy. i've had to face it before and now i'm actually making progress towards getting my car DONE and doing it SAFELY

 

Wouldnt the air fuel change be because the intake manifold is completely different and likely to flow alot more air than previous? SO more air would make sense it leaned out?

 

You would think, bit it isnt lean. Went the other way.



Glad you guys are looking out for my safety and my car, your right and i did today think of a routing situation i could live with for temporary with regular hard line.

 

speaking of which, i think you need to make an update thread or something...it's been a while since we've seen pics

 

yeah man, i'm gonna take pics of the pile of parts.........been collecting parts for about 3 years, car is getting a complete suspension make over, 9" rear from Quick Performance (my new employer), AFCO shocks, strange mustang struts......i'll take some pictures next time i'm around it

 

Alright, jetted the carb down from 76/84 to 74/82 and it is right on the money on motor, i jetted the plate system up o 150 on the N2O side, and it was 10:1 on the wide band with 800 bottle pressure, for the life of me i cannot find the damn bottle warmer. So, i think the 100 shot fuel jet will go in the next time i drive the car to see if i can get the nitrous to 12:1.

Selt better on the 150 than the 125 with 100 pounds less bottle pressure though, LOL.

 

I wouldn't bother spraying the car until you get the pressure where it needs to be before running it, messing with too much stuff before tuning it at the proper psi that will change the tuneup regardless.

 

Just doing what i can for the runs i have lined up Friday. If it hits great on 800, i will run it on 800 Friday.

 

Are you setting the nitrous fuel pressure with it flowing, or just dead headed? 6psi dead-headed isn't enough, though it probably wouldn't show up due to the jet spread you had before.

Get the bottle pressure up where it's supposed to be, get a few sets of spark plugs and tune it right. - The cost of doing so is considerably cheaper than the end costs of not doing so.

 

Just shooting for 12.5 on the wide band and keeping an eye on the plugs, it will be fine. Really wish i knew where the hell this bottle warmer was.

And 6 PSI on the regulator was with it flowing.

 

Flowing through an .073 or through the jet you're using?

 

hey man lets get a collection going and get this guy some hose and fittings already, I got some -10 stuff........well if your gonna do it, do it right...right??

 

If you guys wanna do ate, I will put the sheet on my car, lol.

****, it was tgrought the 125 fuel jet, cannot remember what jet it was.