I have some -6 and -8 line left over . Not much length but could work for you. I'd have to see. its good stuff. teflon based stainless braid. Might beable to bring some back for you as i dont need it. Dont have any fittings. Think it takes a certain type. I can get a few of those too from the guy, Lonnies Performance. Sponsor here I believe and LS1tech

 

double post

 

So you're going to tune it for 800psi... then you'll get a warm day with a full bottle, hit the button, go lean and blow something up.

I'm sorry, I know you don't want to hear about our fuel line and other comments, but it's sort of at the point that if you're not going to do it right, we can't really give you any advice that will 100% work because you just won't get consistent results without setting it up right.

Fix the fuel lines, setup the bottle heater or at least get the bottle up to a proper pressure (typically around 950psi), fix whatever else is messed up that we don't know about and then start tuning. There is no point in tuning for conditions that aren't right and will be difficult to reproduce, you're just going to blow it up or burn it down.

 

Well, found the bottle heater, got to install it, but now i am at the point that the bottle i have is nearly empty, so i need another bottle filled and then use as little as possible so i have some left for the *** dragging that will take place Friday.

So not i can at least avoid popping the hatch for much longer than seeing how much pressure is there, going to have to park somewhere i can take a peek without arousing suspicion, LOL.

So, i still need a bottle opener in the future as well and mount a nitrous pressure gauge in the cowl of the car, that way opening the hatch will not have to happen at all.

Dont know how much line you guys have, but fittings are the problem, so a tubing bender and some tubing will be my best bet for now i am sure.

 

I'd have to look at ur pics again, but i was able to make -6an lines off the stock hardlines on the car to the fuel rails of my old stealth ram motor for about 100 bucks fittings and line. 6 ft of braid line isnt all that much, its the fittings that add up but still capable of making good lines without spending too much.

 

Exacty, that is why I don't have braided lines yet, the fittings themselves not the line.

Well, bottle warmer does great, got up to 1100 before I shut it down, let it settle at 950and hit it again, was 9.9 a/f, jetted the fuel to 100 shot 53 jet, ran again and got to 11 a/f, I can live with that, beotch is hitting great, there are sone local cars in serious sheot, also built a bottle mount, new nitrous acc switch panel and polished the panel for the hell of it since it was aluminum, I will post pics later since I am on my phone right now.

 

You don't have to use fittings, you can clamp braded lines over a hardline or barb.

Second, for bending hard line, the edge of a brake rotor works really nicely, it will support the tube and give you a nice radius that shouldn't crush the tube.

 

Last time i tried to use braided on a hard line with a clamp it didnt work, it was a non barb, but it didnt seal and it leaked.

Thanks for the idea with the rotor, i will see if i can try that out.


The switch panel i made was originally going to be primer black just for the hell of it to match the interior really, but after wet sanding it with 1000 to make the surface clean, i liked the look after i cleaned the WD40 off, so i buffed it with a medium cutting agent then waxed it, went from flat aluminum:



To this:



Originally the aluminum piece that was in was painted and thin, room for 3 switches, but needing a bottle heater switch, i made the new piece and there is room for 5, so i have a empty spot for one more, the two step activation will go there when i hook it back up:




The bottle mount ended up a little heavy with angle iron but it is solid and wont allow the bottle to move when strapped in:




The plugs are looking clean as can be so far, i assume the spot on the strap you can clearly see is the timing mark?

 

Yes thats the timing mark, more timing will move it lower, less will move it toward the end (you want it at the bend) ....BUT you need a clean read, fresh plug and then a full pull then pull the plug, sometimes it takes two full hits to get a good read. IF that plug was a 1/4 mile run it would need more heat in the cylinder (1/4 turn of color on the edge where the strap starts & timing mark near the bend) Looks like the motor is dry in that cylinder and shows no detonation in that picture and I assume it has a bunch of idle time by the amount of color/soot on the jacket

 

You are on the money, so the timing mark can stand a bit more timing basically? And by dry you mean not enough fuel?

 

you can't just add more timing without putting in FRESH plugs and making a pass then reading them. Those plugs are useless to tell you anything if they have a ton of idling and driving time on them.

 

The straps are an indiciation of heat, which is somewhat an indication of timing. - It's a good thing to keep an eye on, but tweak your timing off the MPH on your time slips not the plug.

Having the mark in the bend is a comon thought "target" but not neccessarily what the motor wants. The plug heat range can shift that line/mark w/o altering timing, as can the a/f and n/f ratios. - You pull out enough timing to be safe, dial the n/f spread in, then start adding timing back in till the mph doesn't improve.


A plug with idle time can only tell you about the over-all tune-up and whether or not there's an abundance of detonation. If you want to know what it's doing @ WOT, you have to do a plug cut.

 

Yea, i was just checking the plugs to see if there was any relevant sign of issues, look good enough, have the wide band reading 11.5:1 today, so it is ready for the track for tonight and rape a cobra and some others tomorrow that have it coming