http://youtu.be/bxK8Bw7ff-s

1.443 - 60 ft
6.173 @ 116.58 1/8 mile
9.964 @ 103.69 1/4 mile ( lifting off some ways after 1/8 mile & coasting through)

forgive the smoke fest we found a leak on rear pan oil seal

just want to know how u think the car is launching


changes made to car setup since my crash

car somewhat much more lowered in the back - improving the front to back rake I had previously

150 lb rate circle track brand rear springs
good soft rate but a bit too short

added rubber isolator & another stock rubber isolator with steel support cup removed on top of it
to get it to hold up the car and clear the back tires

strange mustang singl adjustable rear shock
clevis mount fab welded - set at number 5 adjustment dial

squared the whole car again -
squared rear end and the distance between rear wheels and a centerline between front ball joints using plumb bob

set the pinion angle 2* downwards
from the angle found at the back of the motor - following instructions from Jegs adjustable short torque arm setup

installed Competition Engineering weld in subframe connectors

installed a fabbed rear crossmember
extend main hoop of roll cage through floorboard into the crossmember and new subframe connectors

made my 10 point cage into a 12 point

 

wow, you get out of the groove and your in the dirt!

 

doesnt look too bad, other than it appears to be spinning pretty bad?

 

funny u say that

most of the guys who saw the pass live said they thought the tires were spinning & smoking - before it obviously became oil burn later in the run

we have since found one of the new strange shocks was dented in the body on the left rear - probably started seizing during this run

it fully seized on the next pass and sent me spinning off - - no damage as I managed to keep it on the track

so still some work to do

but I find its putting the front wheels down a bit too soon - want to work on this - perhaps get it to launch half the height of yours - great avatar pic - always admired your car's reaction on the line

 

i cant really tell, but it sounds like its spinning off the line.... or maybe its the converter? mine picks them up about as much as yours did in the video and sets them down at the 60' beams on a good pass, and on others it tends to go alot higher and mess stuff up. (im working on that)
maybe you could get some side video of the rear tires as you leave to see what they are doing? you might also try backing down on the nitrous off the line. see if the 60' gets worse or better.

 

It bounced off the line. Looks like the tires unloaded as it jumped.

From the sound of it, it almost sounds like you're on the rev limiter all the way down the track.

 

I know the track looks like hell, but how accurate is the timing system? if you can go 6.17 to the 1/8th with only a 1.44 60' you have alot left on the table to play with. a typical 60' for a car that runs a clean 6.17 is in the mid 1.30's. Its hard to tell from the video cause its far away. What are you runing for front struts? any kind of travel limiters? On a track like that you would want alot of front end travel with maybe some lakewood 90/10's.

 

116 mph in the 1/8 is getting it done. I've been 6.26 at 113 with a 1.49 60' and that wasnt a super hard launch, so there is definately alot left in that combo if it can do 1.3's 60's like it should. Should be dipping into the 5.8-5.9's 1/8 for sure.

 

Brand new track tree timing system bought last year by a group - I am on the association and saw some of the quotes - good money was paid

the track has been in operation (never mind its present state) for 12 years +
and have hosted some real cars/teams/officials from Puerto Rico race tracks - the tech guys have it right I think

I am sure there is more in it - just need to get the car to be more consistent and to take more of the motor at launch - right now I can leave at 3k rpm tops with nitrous - any more than that its a lucky dip which way she goes


I have Lakewood 90/10's - 1 and 1/2 coil cut from moroso sbc trick springs -

Jegster limter kit looped through two holes that appear in the front area of the stock control arms and bolt put through side of shock tower -
they are set loose - just maybe an inch in total left on the bolt above the stop nut that keeps the bolt from dropping through from the shock tower

any more travel I would have to cut and weld / extend the bolt loop or longer cord strap or do away with the limiter altogether

is more travel where I should be heading so that the front stays up a little longer ????

Should I be loosening or removing the limiter altogether

 

watching the vid again, i dont like the way the converter sounds...... sounds way high. i would think a 9-9.5" would be better, and a good bit tighter.

 

until I know she is running true and not spinning I cant really say

neither the cam or motor were specd for nitrous - I had agreed to take whatever the nitrous gives me

the converter was specd at about 4500-5000 on motor (it flashes just about 4800 on motor) and another 1k rpm higher with nitrous

never really got to see what happens - planning a in car video to see how the rpm reads during a run

 

I would try a pass with them unhooked and see how it does. If it trys to wheel stand real high you can start working it back down maybe 1/2" at a time. Your on a .500 full tree so react isnt an issue with all the travel.

Are you using a timing retard of anykind? I love my 7530T, nitrous cars can leave on lower timing with a launch retard and ramp it back in slowly after it launches over a time period of the transbrake release.