slow TPI 350?
slow TPI 350?
I raced my car for the first time a few weeks ago and I ran much slower than I thought I would...I didn't brake torque(bad rear calipers) and I shifted too high (5500 in 1st, 5200 in second). I crossed the line at about 3500-4000 in 3rd...by the way fuel pressure was set to 45psi.
r/t...1.466 (so, I was nervous)
60'...2.104
330...5.993
1/8...9.253
MPH...75.32
1000..12.069
1/4...14.445
MPH...94.99
Any tips would be helpful, thanks
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1990 Firebird Formula 350 speed density TPI; K&N, air foil, throttlebody coolant bypass, underdrive pullies, MSD 6AL, MSD HEI coil, 8.8mm wires, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Hypertech Thermomaster chip, 160* thermostat, fan switch, B&M stage 2 shift kit, Edelbrock 1&5/8 headers, gutted dual cats, Flowmaster 80 series muffler, stock 3.27 posi rear end
r/t...1.466 (so, I was nervous)
60'...2.104
330...5.993
1/8...9.253
MPH...75.32
1000..12.069
1/4...14.445
MPH...94.99
Any tips would be helpful, thanks
------------------
1990 Firebird Formula 350 speed density TPI; K&N, air foil, throttlebody coolant bypass, underdrive pullies, MSD 6AL, MSD HEI coil, 8.8mm wires, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Hypertech Thermomaster chip, 160* thermostat, fan switch, B&M stage 2 shift kit, Edelbrock 1&5/8 headers, gutted dual cats, Flowmaster 80 series muffler, stock 3.27 posi rear end
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,269
Likes: 170
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Your reaction time has nothing to do with your ET. You can sit on the line for 10 minutes and still get the same ET. Next time launch when you see the last yellow light come on.
Looks like an average run for a heavy TPI car. The TPI runs out of power at 5500 but the 700R4 needs that high rpm when shifting to second so that second gear will start to build power at the start of the power curve not way below it. I'd say your shift RPMs were fine if not slightly higher than required. When you crossed the finish line under 4000 rpm, you can see that you need more gear. Try to find a BW 9 bolt with 3.45 gears or buy some 3.70's. The only other cheaper option is to install a 10 bolt with some 3.73 gears. Then you'll cross the finish line at or near your red line.
I had 3.27 gears and ran 11.8's at 117 mph. I was also shifting at 6400 rpm with a carbed engine and crossed the finish line at around 5300 rpm. Don't be afraid of that diff. It's not the best but I doubt you're going to hurt it.
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Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car and knocking on the SuperPro ET class
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
LS6 Big Block buildup now in progress
Best results before the engine blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857
Best corrected ET: 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87
Best corrected MPH: 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
Looks like an average run for a heavy TPI car. The TPI runs out of power at 5500 but the 700R4 needs that high rpm when shifting to second so that second gear will start to build power at the start of the power curve not way below it. I'd say your shift RPMs were fine if not slightly higher than required. When you crossed the finish line under 4000 rpm, you can see that you need more gear. Try to find a BW 9 bolt with 3.45 gears or buy some 3.70's. The only other cheaper option is to install a 10 bolt with some 3.73 gears. Then you'll cross the finish line at or near your red line.
I had 3.27 gears and ran 11.8's at 117 mph. I was also shifting at 6400 rpm with a carbed engine and crossed the finish line at around 5300 rpm. Don't be afraid of that diff. It's not the best but I doubt you're going to hurt it.
------------------
Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car and knocking on the SuperPro ET class
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
LS6 Big Block buildup now in progress
Best results before the engine blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857
Best corrected ET: 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87
Best corrected MPH: 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
hey man considering your mods arent that extensive i think 9.25 in the 1/8th is pretty damn good. ls1s are only running 9 flat or 8.8 your not that far behind. cant really speak about the 1/4 never raced on one and never been to one, but i wouldnt be ashamed of 9.25 in the eigth.besides your doing better than me which is 10 flat at 71mph with a bone stock 79ta with 2.73 rearend.TINFY
Great fun going to the track! I did it for the first time this year too!
Anyways you times seem about right for your mods. I also agree with Steve for the gears.
But I also think there are other things you can do to get into 14 flat or 13.9's.
Your 60' times are a little high and this is caused by wheel spin off the line. Adjustable lower control arms would help as would a panhard bar. Then sub frame connectors. I say these things cause it will help set up the way to a upgraded rear end gears (3.73). If you put the 3.73's in your going to have more tire spin and your 60' time will increase and the 1/4 time will say the same (almost). If any thing get the adjustable LCA's and go to the track and play with them to get the 60' timesdown to 2.02 or 2.00 them you 1/4 mile times should go down. And best of all SPOHN Performance has a good set for $135.
Next did you port out the plenum? If not do it. It really helps!
And last BIG difference would be an aftermaket intake manifold, Edelbrock to name one. The stock intake was designed for the 305's but chevy just put it on the 350's so it is limiting the air and fuel to the heads. This will also give you 200 - 300 rpms more at top end. I have pretty much the same mods as you except I have aftermaket heads and cam but without this intake we are almost even in times, .4 sec difference. Si I think the intake will be a big help.
Sorry it is so long.
Its just my .02
Good Luck!
------------------
89 IROC 350 Auto
TRUE DUAL Exhaust
Edelbrock Performer Aluminum Heads
ZZ9 Cam
TPIS Level 5 Chip
14.01 @ 97.0mph with 2.77's gears
Anyways you times seem about right for your mods. I also agree with Steve for the gears.
But I also think there are other things you can do to get into 14 flat or 13.9's.
Your 60' times are a little high and this is caused by wheel spin off the line. Adjustable lower control arms would help as would a panhard bar. Then sub frame connectors. I say these things cause it will help set up the way to a upgraded rear end gears (3.73). If you put the 3.73's in your going to have more tire spin and your 60' time will increase and the 1/4 time will say the same (almost). If any thing get the adjustable LCA's and go to the track and play with them to get the 60' timesdown to 2.02 or 2.00 them you 1/4 mile times should go down. And best of all SPOHN Performance has a good set for $135.
Next did you port out the plenum? If not do it. It really helps!

And last BIG difference would be an aftermaket intake manifold, Edelbrock to name one. The stock intake was designed for the 305's but chevy just put it on the 350's so it is limiting the air and fuel to the heads. This will also give you 200 - 300 rpms more at top end. I have pretty much the same mods as you except I have aftermaket heads and cam but without this intake we are almost even in times, .4 sec difference. Si I think the intake will be a big help.
Sorry it is so long.
Its just my .02
Good Luck!

------------------
89 IROC 350 Auto
TRUE DUAL Exhaust
Edelbrock Performer Aluminum Heads
ZZ9 Cam
TPIS Level 5 Chip
14.01 @ 97.0mph with 2.77's gears
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