I am planning my suspension and everything for the new engine I will be putting in (383...expecting high to mid 11s, plus a 75-150 shot of NOS). This will be my daily driver...and I will want to keep everything in my interior including rear seats. I read a few places that if you run below 12...you need a roll cage. It seems like they would need me to take my rear seats out....I will no longer beable to use my cargo cover...and where will i put my t-tops? The only one ive seen that MAY be ok is the Jegster 4 point cage. Of course I do like the benefits such as safety and looking cool. So do I need it...and if i do...are there any that will let me keep my rear seats and atleast keep the spot where I hold my t-tops clear?
Oh and I want to add that I will be taking it to the track...but only a few times a year.
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1992 Teal Camaro RS
T-Tops
305 TBI V8
Open air element
3" Flowmaster Exhaust System w/Quad Tips
Aiwa CD/Mp3 player
10 Disc CD Changer
Rockford Fosgate Speakers
SLP Headers Coming
Dynomax High Flow Cats Coming
More to come.
[This message has been edited by mult68 (edited October 15, 2001).]
Oh and I want to add that I will be taking it to the track...but only a few times a year.
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1992 Teal Camaro RS
T-Tops
305 TBI V8
Open air element
3" Flowmaster Exhaust System w/Quad Tips
Aiwa CD/Mp3 player
10 Disc CD Changer
Rockford Fosgate Speakers
SLP Headers Coming
Dynomax High Flow Cats Coming
More to come.
[This message has been edited by mult68 (edited October 15, 2001).]
AlkyIROC
Moderator
close
Apr 29, 2026
To be NHRA legal, to run in the 11's you need a minimum of a 5 point bar. The main hoop, 2 bars going back and a driver's side bar. Usually the passenger side bar is included making it a 6 point bar.
The driver side bar must pass between the driver's shoulder and elbow. There are other requirements for the positioning of the main hoop and how the bars must be attached to the floor. As for keeping rear seats, you'll have to make a choice of having a daily driver with easy access or having an 11 second car that can be taken to the track. The cross bar is more of a pain than the rear bars. It offers no access to the back seats anyway.
To run in the 11's you also need a single layer fire jacket and a 5 point harness. There are more requirements also such as metal valve stems in tubeless tires etc. Pick up a rule book and read through it.
You don't need a full cage unless you get into the 9's or if you've modified the floor or firewall you'll need a full cage to get in the 10's.
The best thing to do is to find a local chassis builder and have him custom make an NHRA legal roll bar to custom fit your application. The rulebook is only a guideline. Final positioning of the bars is up to you as long as they fall into the regulation guidelines.
You can look at some pics on my car's pages. I have a bunch of pics on how I installed my bar but I also have no interior.
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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block (times are for the current engine)
Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586
Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
The driver side bar must pass between the driver's shoulder and elbow. There are other requirements for the positioning of the main hoop and how the bars must be attached to the floor. As for keeping rear seats, you'll have to make a choice of having a daily driver with easy access or having an 11 second car that can be taken to the track. The cross bar is more of a pain than the rear bars. It offers no access to the back seats anyway.
To run in the 11's you also need a single layer fire jacket and a 5 point harness. There are more requirements also such as metal valve stems in tubeless tires etc. Pick up a rule book and read through it.
You don't need a full cage unless you get into the 9's or if you've modified the floor or firewall you'll need a full cage to get in the 10's.
The best thing to do is to find a local chassis builder and have him custom make an NHRA legal roll bar to custom fit your application. The rulebook is only a guideline. Final positioning of the bars is up to you as long as they fall into the regulation guidelines.
You can look at some pics on my car's pages. I have a bunch of pics on how I installed my bar but I also have no interior.
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block (times are for the current engine)
Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586
Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
Senior Member
has anybody had a cage put in by a pro to meet regulations? If so...how much did it cost ?
I dont think I could do the welding and stuff like that, I could strip the interior though. Im thinking about a roll bar instead of sub frame connectors
any input would be appreciated
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91 RS W/carbed 350, Vortec heads, performer rpm, Comp cams Xtreme energy 224/230 duration and .477/.480 lift. BFG Drag radials. 3.42 posi,Corvette servoed 700r4, 3000rpm stall converter. Edelbrock TES, 3inch cat, flowmaster with single 2.5 inch exit.
Best time yet to come
13.0 @ 107- N/A
12.5@ 117- 100HP Nitrous
This is a Pic of my car in race trim www.tbns.net/billyjay/camero.jpg
Yes I know how to spell camaro- so dont ask. I didnt make the link
I dont think I could do the welding and stuff like that, I could strip the interior though. Im thinking about a roll bar instead of sub frame connectors
any input would be appreciated
------------------
91 RS W/carbed 350, Vortec heads, performer rpm, Comp cams Xtreme energy 224/230 duration and .477/.480 lift. BFG Drag radials. 3.42 posi,Corvette servoed 700r4, 3000rpm stall converter. Edelbrock TES, 3inch cat, flowmaster with single 2.5 inch exit.
Best time yet to come
13.0 @ 107- N/A
12.5@ 117- 100HP Nitrous
This is a Pic of my car in race trim www.tbns.net/billyjay/camero.jpg
Yes I know how to spell camaro- so dont ask. I didnt make the link
QwkTrip
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Do NOT use a roll bar without subframes. The primary purpose of subframes is complete the chassis by tying the two halves together. The primary purpose of the roll bar, besides safety, is to promote weight transfer. If you installed only the roll bar you would be essentially transfering weight across a flexible joint in the center of the car. Better then stock... but hardly an improvement. Subframes alone would be a far better improvement.