Well my 1983 Ws6 TA 355 has these mods, and I don't think I will be able to take my car out to the track before the end of this year and I was just curious.

Junkyard motor rebuilt (machined and all) 2 bolt main.
-69 corvette camel back heads with LT1 springs
-69 corvette camshaft (350 HP, 380 Torque in original motor)
-Edelbrock performer RPM air gap intake
-Edelbrock 750 cfm carb
-And other minor bits like distributor, heavy duty timing belt, etc.
-Unfortunately I don't know the specs on my pistons.

-Stock 3.23 gears
-Stock tranny
-Stock exhaust (Engine failed me before I could put money into exhaust)
-Posi
-Street tires, 80-90% tread left

Not sure what else to add but there it all is.

0-60, 1/4, whatever you think it would get just shoot me some numbers.

 

Probably low 14's. Might sneak into the 13's.

Stock exhaust, stock stall, standard gears, highway tires, Edelbrock carb, ancient heads, ancient cam - all of those things are going to hurt you.

Do you have plans to upgrade any of those things?

 

I'm going to say high 14's and here is why:

If you are running 100% stock exhaust you are choking 30 to 50hp out of the motor.

Camel hump heads, while desirable for restoration are boat anchors in today's high performance world, as is the cam.

I guarantee you are giving up 10 to 30hp in the tuning of the carb, timing curve, and other small things that give you optimum power.


But, by putting a good aftermarket exhaust (with headers), tuning the carb and timing curve, and optimizing traction, it may run in the mid 13's without missing a beat.

 

What is a stall? I heard of 2300 stall converters and such but im not exactly sure what they are. Do they let you push rpm's to that rpm before launch?

I am not planning on upgrading cam and heads, I just put them on. They are old but they also have high HP and torque rating so they should be great.

Probably a cat-back exhaust of some sort.

So you say the heads and cam are terrible but with exhaust and a tune I can run mid 13's?

13's are fast and I don't see how the cam and heads are terrible rated 350 HP and 380 torque on original motor. If I had a set of vortech ( or another brand ) of heads rated the same you would think so highly of them. Is there some difference I don't know of?

 

Factory HP ratings mean nothing. Period.

But anyway, those old engines were rated in GROSS HP, which means no accessories, headers, good exhaust, tuned to the max, etc. Not even close to a real world dyno test. And don't forget marketing hype.

At a bare minimum you need headers and a good exhaust. You'll see signficant gains as mentioned before. A "cat back exhaust" isn't going to do much of anything since you're choking it to death with exhaust manifolds.

Lastly, a stall converter allows the engine to reach a higher rpm before applying maximum torque through the trans and drivetrain. Any one of us could type all night about stall converters, but just know that as cam and cylinder heads change to make higher peak torque and horsepower numbers, the "loose" stall converter allows the engine to reach a higher rpm more quickly.

Here's a video that does a nice job illustrating what I'm saying. No idea who this is, I just youtube searched "high stall torque converter". Keep in mind with a higher stall you'll need a good trans cooler too.

 

Those old camel hump heads where great for the time with the 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves And I hope you put new valves and harden seats in them as those heads are for leaded fuels and will burn up quickly with unleaded fuels of today, Vortechs flow a lot better than those older heads. Just a much better design.
Did you do a rebuild based of the old engine back in 69 that had those power numbers? If so that does not mean that is what your compo will do. The only way to know what your comp is making is to get it dyno'd.
When people talk about stall they are talking about the torque converter And at what rpm it can stall to before it fully uses the engine power basically

 

I'll be running premium if that helps.
And no its not based off the original engine

All I asked was what I would run with what I have. If you people have $700 to throw me headers, y-pipe, cat, and cat back then feel free.
Or these $300 vortech heads or however expensive comp cam that may or may not gain me HP anyways then feel free.

 

Lol They all Guessed what you would run, They are trying to help you and let you know what you can do to better ur combo. NO reason to get hateful bout it.


14's

 

Well first any unleaded fuels will eat your valves and seats up in those head, You may want to run a lead additive to make them last. I'm not putting down your heads, or trying to get you to use vortechs or any other type heads.
Now I fully understand that you asked to find out what your car should run. But to really answer that, We need to know more about your car, engine ect. That's why I asked if it was built based off the 69 engine. We have no idea what your compression ratio is, You say the cam was the one for 350 hp and 380 torque But we do not know what the cams specs are.
We also do not know what your car weighs, Is it fully loaded or has it bean stripped down. The only way anyone can give you a decent answer to your question is to give us all the information, And that means real HP # And that means dyno.
Two cars can have all the same parts, and One run 12 flat while the other barely breaks into the 13s, it depends on how well they where built and tuned.