Anyone running radial slicks?
#1
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Car: 85 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 SBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Moser 35 spline w/ 4.56 gears
Anyone running radial slicks?
I'm thinking about switching to radials. A few of the racers around here are running them. The issue may be the size. The smallest one is 30x10.0R-15. Anyone running these currently without minitubs? I plan to do the usual clearancing of the bumpstop and the front of the wheel well. Just curious if anyone has tried them.
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
Re: Anyone running radial slicks?
I run the 295/55 radial on a 10" rim.
#5
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Re: Anyone running radial slicks?
i know the stock eliminator guys love the radial constructed slicks and have had them on thirdgens without mini-tubs. my guess is there is some trimming to be done in the front around the lca mount area and some hammer work on the spare tire well on passenger's side.
#6
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Re: Anyone running radial slicks?
Yes it can be done without mini-tubbing.. there are some pics on another tread
BUT "some hammer work" is an understatement on any tire wider than 10.5 nominal,
especially if you have a rim wider than 8"
Removing the bump stop and mounting bolts will not be enough. you will have to cut back the hump that forms the reinforcing for the bump stop.
If you run a 10" wheel with 6 3/4 of backspacing..
the "ribbed" sheet metal at the towers will need to be cut out and replaced with flat, (or you can try to heat with torch and flatten it) the stock wheel houses will need to be cut and reworked.
My 28X10.5s did fit with some hammer work... cutting the bump stops and reinforcing.. and dissecting the lower front of the wheel houses.. a couple hours worth of work... and check your clearances. the last thing you want is a blow out at speed due to tire rub. Better to have too much clearance than not enough. A radial does not grow like a slick but try for 3/4 to 1" min clearance to be safe. And be sure to clean up any sharp edges..
BUT "some hammer work" is an understatement on any tire wider than 10.5 nominal,
especially if you have a rim wider than 8"
Removing the bump stop and mounting bolts will not be enough. you will have to cut back the hump that forms the reinforcing for the bump stop.
If you run a 10" wheel with 6 3/4 of backspacing..
the "ribbed" sheet metal at the towers will need to be cut out and replaced with flat, (or you can try to heat with torch and flatten it) the stock wheel houses will need to be cut and reworked.
My 28X10.5s did fit with some hammer work... cutting the bump stops and reinforcing.. and dissecting the lower front of the wheel houses.. a couple hours worth of work... and check your clearances. the last thing you want is a blow out at speed due to tire rub. Better to have too much clearance than not enough. A radial does not grow like a slick but try for 3/4 to 1" min clearance to be safe. And be sure to clean up any sharp edges..
Last edited by FRMULA88; 04-29-2014 at 10:24 AM.
#7
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Car: 85 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 SBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Moser 35 spline w/ 4.56 gears
Re: Anyone running radial slicks?
Yes it can be done without mini-tubbing.. there are some pics on another tread
BUT "some hammer work" is an understatement on any tire wider than 10.5 nominal,
especially if you have a rim wider than 8"
Removing the bump stop and mounting bolts will not be enough. you will have to cut back the hump that forms the reinforcing for the bump stop.
If you run a 10" wheel with 6 3/4 of backspacing..
the "ribbed" sheet metal at the towers will need to be cut out and replaced with flat, (or you can try to heat with torch and flatten it) the stock wheel houses will need to be cut and reworked.
My 28X10.5s did fit with some hammer work... cutting the bump stops and reinforcing.. and dissecting the lower front of the wheel houses.. a couple hours worth of work... and check your clearances. the last thing you want is a blow out at speed due to tire rub. Better to have too much clearance than not enough. A radial does not grow like a slick but try for 3/4 to 1" min clearance to be safe. And be sure to clean up any sharp edges..
BUT "some hammer work" is an understatement on any tire wider than 10.5 nominal,
especially if you have a rim wider than 8"
Removing the bump stop and mounting bolts will not be enough. you will have to cut back the hump that forms the reinforcing for the bump stop.
If you run a 10" wheel with 6 3/4 of backspacing..
the "ribbed" sheet metal at the towers will need to be cut out and replaced with flat, (or you can try to heat with torch and flatten it) the stock wheel houses will need to be cut and reworked.
My 28X10.5s did fit with some hammer work... cutting the bump stops and reinforcing.. and dissecting the lower front of the wheel houses.. a couple hours worth of work... and check your clearances. the last thing you want is a blow out at speed due to tire rub. Better to have too much clearance than not enough. A radial does not grow like a slick but try for 3/4 to 1" min clearance to be safe. And be sure to clean up any sharp edges..
Thanks. Now I need to get to work.
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