I hope I'm allowed to post this here.

I'm selling a Torsen diff that is brand spankin' new. It doesn't even have a drop of fluid on it. I'm willing to let it go for $500 Canadian (firm).

I am also removing my Hotchkiss sub-frame connectors. I'm willing to let this go for $100 Canadian (firm).

anyone interested?

 

me me me me,sub frame for me ,i assume they are bolt on since your taking them off.What condition are they in.Do you think i could take a look at em sometime this week.Phone my cell past 5:00 604-319-4128

 

I'll let it stay since this is a local board and everything...

Im basically just interested in the quality of the Subframes, those were one of the companies I had on the list when it comes time for some connectors... those and the SSMs look pretty good quality.

-Roshambo

 

Thanks Rosh.

The SFCs are quite like the spohn design. They look beefier than Spohn's, BUT the driver's side connector doesn't extend as far as spohn's. Don't really know how else to describe it. I've had the connectors on there for a couple of years, and they are very solid.

Stormshadow- I'll give you a call when I get the car jacked up. That way you can crawl under and have a look, or I could just show em to you one day. They are currently welded on, and Hunter and I are gonna cut 'em. Best to wait till then.

 

why are you getting rid of them

 

dave,

I'm getting rid of the hotchkiss because I'm getting a KILLER deal on a set of Spohn SFC's.

As for the Torsen, I realized that it won't be the right application for the autocrossing.

I will probably be getting rid of my Lakewood rear LCA's as well, for the same reason as the subframe connectors.

I'll keep you posted on the LCA's if you want. Of course, once all the stuff is off the car, I'll let you examine them.

 

sweet,any suspension stuff you have i'd like to take a look at i plan on redoing my suspension this summer.

Joe from the dealership said your gonna hop up a CRX next, wouldn't mind seeing how much potential it has.

 

can you give me a bit more info on that diff. what gears does it come with and will it withstand nos launches on slicks. Ive haven't heard much on that type of diff so any additional info would be great. Thanx.

 

TA88GTA- I got the Torsen from SLP. At the time, they had a special offer, so I decided to scoop it up. The offer has since ended, but if you want, you can check it out on their website. They have 2 Torsens for sale; the first one $99US is the OEM replacement for the 4th gens, and the second one is the $499 heavy duty Torsen. The one I have is the heavy-duty Torsen diff, NOT the OEM replacement. I don't drag race (only been to Mission for the street legal ONCE last sept.) "professionally", so I can't really tell you how well it would work for drag racing.

Stormshadow- I was thinking of doing something to the CRX, but then I realized that I'm a proud owner of a 3rd gen and not some RICE BOY. Besides, the CRX is a rust bucket, and if I wanted to make a fast car, it would have to start with american muscle. BUT... I wouldn't mind something like a Supra TT/Skyline/RX7... something with a different "feel".

 

there is a 94 TT Supra in the paper for 38'000$,lot of cash for a 94.i wouldn't mind a Supra only if i had the cash,

How were the subframes for ground clearance

 

what gears and posi unit are in the diff???

 

it's just a posi unit. It's not the whole rear end that I'm selling; therefore no gears, axles, etc.. Sorry, maybe I should've made it a little more clear

 

Age: Stop misleading potential customers!!

Here is a better discription of what the :Torsen" actually is: Take the center section out of the diff and unbolt the ring gear from it and that piece that is left over (the posi unit or differential unit) that is what the torsen replaces. The torsen works differently from conventional limited slip units. A standard "posi" or limited slip uses some sort of friction to apply power to both wheels while still allowing them to turn at different speeds when conditions dictate. A G.M. limited slip from say a 91 Z28 uses cones that are attached to the side gears which engage the axles - those cones create friction with the differential case when the wheels turn at different speeds. When the loading is high the cones are forced outwards by the gear pressure and as a result they generate more holding force. A clutch plate type limited slip is similar to a cone type but it is more effective because it has more friction area - multiple clutch plates attached to each side gear - and it needs less preload to operate properly.

A torsen has no friction surfaces. If you jack the rear of the car up and turn one wheel the other wheel rotates in the opposite direction - just like an open differential. The torsen splits the torque by a very clever set of gears inside the differential that only work effeciently in one direction. (it is very complicated) Basically a torsen will only put power to the slower turning wheel within the limits of its bias ratio. Different types of torsens have different bias ratios. everything from 1.5 to 1 - to 6 to 1 depending on the design. The bias ratio means that if the low traction wheel can sustain a torque of say 100 FtLbs - then if you have a 3 to 1 torsen it is capable of transferring 300 FtLbs to the other wheel.

The biggest advantage of a torsen is that it provides no resistance to differentiation. That means that if you are cornering the car thinks it has an open differential - changes direction easily - but it puts power down as if you have a spool. That is if everything works properly of course.

Torsens are extremely smooth. In normal driving the car operates like you have an open differential - easy turning - no noise or chatter. When you need traction - the torsen works seamlessly to apply power to each wheel within its limits - bias ratio.

In a drag race situation the torsen would work fine - but that is not really what they are designed for.

Unfortunately there is a downside to torsens - lots of gears to wear out. If you road race or autocross the torsen is awsome - until it starts to wear out - then it is the $hitts.

The difficulty for ThirdGens (and FourthGens) is that the differential is just not big enough to put a beefy torsen in there for racing purposes. When you add big sticky tires and a bunch of power it loads the differential much harder. In order for the differential to withstand these loads for extended periods of time the gears inside need to be big enough. In a ThirdGen rear end there is not enough plysical space inside the ring gear to put a torsen that is up to the rigors of hard racing.

The SLP H.D. Torsen is the ultimate street diff. Smooth, quiet, great in the rain. It can handle all the power that a 10 bolt ThirdGen rear end can handle. In a healthy street car I would estimate a torsen would last a minimum of 5 years - or 100000 KM. For racing - we got 3 years out of a torsen in a car that put over 330 HP and 350 FtLbs to the wheels.

So - the choice for us was put a new torsen in every couple of years or find a more durable diff - and the answer was - find a more durable diff.

But damn does the torsen put down power awsome in the corners! Oh well.

Like I said - the ultimate street diff.

 

Now that's an awesome explanation, Hunter!

 

what's the word on the subframes AGE?

 

thanx for the info Hunter
very informative

 

Suddenly, I feel a great burden lifted from me. Thanks Karl!

Dave, I should be getting my new SFCs this weekend.. then I'll jack up the car, and give you a call.

 

cool,just wanted keep updated