Thinking of dabbling with the bottle on my Formula once i finsih getting her dialed in, going for lowwwwwwww 13 high 12 on engine alone. thinking of a 100-15- shot for some easy 11's, make a heck of a sleeper since it looks almost stock under the hood as it sits.

Who has hidden nitrous on TPI setups and how did u do it? I was thinking of plumbing everything in under the plenum between my runners since i no longer use egr and it frees up some decent space. Im not going to go so far as to plumb it under the intake, just looking for more ways to hide it so i can pop the hood and then lol when they get spanked.

let me know if your sharing secrets
later
Jeremy

 

could put a under manifold kit on it

 

I'm doing exactly what you're talkin about as we speak...lines are under plenum and sol's are on the firewall with a bracket I made up behind brake booster, hidden under black plastic cover I made, bottle is in the tire well hidden behind standard cover, remote bottle opener switch opens it.Single nozzle tapped into under side of TB, and fuel is controlled by ECU wired into each injector.
I'll have it finished tomorrow.

 

I have my solenoids mounted in front of the air filter under the lip behind the headlights. The nitrous and fuel lines are ran underneath the mounting plate for the airfilter and the charcoal cansiter. I drilled two small holes in the center of the plate where the air filter sits and ran the lines through the center of the filter, up the intake track, and custom made a bracket to hold the Annular Fogger-R Nozzle inside the bellows just before the TB. It fires straight into the airfoil and the TB. Completely stealth. The only thing you can see (if you try reallllly hard) is the TB mounted microswitch.

Good luck, it's pretty easy!

 

lol now we're talking :-)

do either of u guys have any pics?

just trying to figure out different ways to do it and see which will work best on the current setup. it looks pretty much lke a stock tpi with headers, still got AC and AIR, etc lol

trying to keep it that way and make it even faster than it is now

thanks
jeremy

 

Here...

 

....

 

holy ****....that is the coolest thing ive ever seen!..

that other guys post about running the lines inside the air intake is freakin bad @ss to...

 

holy ****....that is the coolest thing ive ever seen!..

that other guys post about running the lines inside the air intake is freakin bad @ss to...

 

Nice.


There's TONS of room under the HSR.. perfect for a DPI kit.

 

Oh WOW does that look trick, its almost to bad you dont get to see it...

 

I'll snap some pics and show you how I ran mine. It's really simple!! Stay tuned......

 

Is it me or does the N20 and fuel spray to the opposite side of the intake valve? Is there a down side to that?

What the max you could spray like that?

Oh and did you make that yourself or did you buy it somwhere? how much did it cost you?

 

This is kinda off topic but WTF is a HSR?

 

I do believe it stands for "Holley Stealth Ram", but I could be wrong.

 

yeah, it means holley stealth ram.

 

Do ya absolutely have to re do the bonnet for the HSR?

 

the TPI section of this forum has info for: "what cars do and which dont have to" redo the "bonnet" us yanks call it the hood here. you will find it there. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=114308

 

okay, here's some pics. Can you see it??

 

How about in this pic?

 

Give up?? Take a closer look

 

One last one for now

 

Easiest way to spot a nitrous kit is the fuel hookup.

Anything coming off the shrader, and not going IMMEDIATELY to a gauge (with no T-offs) is a dead give away.

 

1fastgta- what's the point of the gauge under the hood? It's not like you can see it when it matters the most...

 

It's a borrowed guage, I mounted it there just to check bottle pressure at the track. I will eventually get one for myself and mount it in the car. Do they make one like with an electrical sending unit? How about with a small digital (i.e. rectangular) display? Also, about the schrader valve..... see if you can find my fuel hook up

 

I know it's hard to see in that photo, but the MAP sensor covers up the 90 degree fitting, and I have black plastic conduit covering the entire fuel line, all the way up to the AN fitting. You absolutely cannot see it on the car!! This is how I ran the conduit/fuel line to the solenoid, it's directly behind the coolant overflow tank, and ran under the hood strut brace. Looks like the factory put it there!

 

I know it's hard to see in that photo, but the MAP sensor covers up the 90 degree fitting, and I have black plastic conduit covering the entire fuel line, all the way up to the AN fitting. You absolutely cannot see it on the car!! This is how I ran the conduit/fuel line to the solenoid, it's directly behind the coolant overflow tank, and ran under the hood strut brace. Looks like the factory put it there!

 

It's still plain as day if you know what to look for.


The trick is to not use gasoline as the secondary fuel.


Propane is amazing.

Clean install, but that setup can be spotted a mile away. First place I look is the fuel rail for any fittings/line. Unless you're an avid $$ racer... It's kind of pointless to hide.. But yours does look nice.

 

maybe but for most of us (including me) and especially people not familiar with TPI or EFI in general thats a very very hard to spot n20 install.

i think its amazing, but thats just my personal opinion.

very very nice 1fastgta! I want somthing similar for mine when i actually get it up and running. cheaper than a procharger and just as fun!

 

Here's a pic of the custom bracket I made to hold the Annular Fogger R nozzle:

 

1FastGTA,

Im definitely interested in doing it something along the lines of your setup.. u got part numbers of what pieces u used. Gonna be awhile yet for i head that route, but gonna figure it all out now
thanks
Jeremy

 

On a TPI, the easiest way to hide it is to cut the stock feed at the frame rail, it will be regulated to the same pressure as what the injectors see, and you can empty out the cruise control solenoid and mount the fuel solenoid. There’s enough wiring and tubing in that area that it’s easy to hide the lines and wiring in that area (inside the plastic snap together conduit in along the frame rail you can completely hide anything, or if you want to go into the frame rail you can easily run as much stuff in there as you want with an easy outlet infront of the radiator). You could also run that fuel line, wiring, N2O line, mount the solenoids… into the driver’s fender behind the horns, with the lines to the nozzle running under the radiator support. It would be completely hidden. I’ve done something like that in my 4th gen, not so much because I wanted to hide it, but more because I couldn’t get them mounted in a way that I thought looked good.

You can eliminate the throttle position switch by taping into the tps sensor signal at the ECM and building a little voltage level triggered circuit that turns on at someplace over 4VDC.

 

Here's a parts list I used, some with part#'s. Hope this helps. I also put together an installation guide, but I did not include it.

1. Standard 10lbs. bottle, with brackets 2. 20ft. of -4AN nitrous line (I recommend 16-18ft), (JEG’s) part# 741-15305
3. (2) 4ft. -3AN nitrous and fuel line (one of each) 4. (1) Power Shot Nitrous solenoid 5. (1) Power Shot Fuel solenoid
6. (1) 6ft. -4AN fuel line (JEG’s) part# 741-15260
7. (1) micro switch, throttle body, with mounting bracket, (Summit) part #NOS-15640
8. (1) Illuminated rocker switch, 12V (Radio Shack part# 275-712) 9. (1) 12v, 30A automotive relay (any car parts store)
10. 24ft of 14guage insulated wire (any car parts store)
11. 8ft of 12guage insulated wire (any car parts store)
12. (4) 1/8 NPT to -4AN fittings 13. (1) annular fogger R nozzle, (Summit) part #NOS-13700R 14. (1) 90 degree -4AN male to -4AN female swivel fitting, (Summit) part #NOS-17535
15. 12ft of black wire conduit 16. An assortment of nitrous and fuel jets

 

The WOT circuit is exactly what I'm currently using.

As far as your statement on cutting the fuel line at the frame level & tapping it.. Not unless you have another pressure regulator at that level.

It will be at a VERY high pressure because the last thing it saw was the fuel pump, and it's still BEFORE the AFPR on the rail.

 

No, it won't. Everything before the fpr will be at the pressure that the fpr is set to, all it does is let enough gas past it so that everything in front of it is at the set pressure.

 

Then why is the fuel rail AFTER the AFPR... I fail to see how something before a metering device will be regulated to what it's set at...

 

b/c the fpr determines how much fuel returns to the tank. It took me a long time to understand this, but eventuall I did. If you blow into a straw w/ your finger over one end the pressure inside the straw increases to that of how much your blowing. If you poke a small hole in the straw you will only be able to build up a certain amount of pressure. Poke a bigger hole in the straw and even less pressure can build in the line/rail.

 

Go take a look at your car, it isn't.

There are cars with the fuel rail after the fpr (mostly '99 and up, where the fpr is in the tank/done electronically), but not on anything that we're discussing.

 

Uh, the AFPR on my car is before the rail.

The fuel travels into the AFPR, through the rail, into injectors, then excess fuel is sent via return line to the tank.


I agree the return line will be a similiar pressure to AFPR pressure (small variance based on engine load..) But I don't see how the fuel line between the intank pump & AFPR will be the pressure set by the AFPR.

 

I will say this one more time, and you can read it and take it to heart or I’m not going to waste any more time and will allow you to live your life as an ignorant, pig headed SOB.

The fpr is AFTER THE FUEL RAILS. Follow the inlet (the larger 3/8” hose) you’ll see that it goes to the rails, then the fuel pressure test fitting/shrader valve, to the fpr and finally out the return (smaller 5/16” hose). On a TBI car the inlet is connected to the chamber around the injector, then the fpr relieves pressure into the return line.

 

No need to start flaming. That's totally uncalled for.

I was asking a question because I didn't understand it. No need to become a total dick over it. :nono:

 

You know, you got 2 (3 if you count the original) polite responses clearly stating how it works. For my effort I got effectively “this is how it works (incorrectly), and based on that you make no sense.”

No, you were not asking a question, you were stating incorrectly that I was wrong. And no, I was not flaming, I was stating fact.

I apologize that I’ve got an issue with wanting to teach people something where there is clearly something to be taught. Apparently, in your case it involves beating you over the head with it.

Don’t worry, I won’t waste my time the next time

 

12SEC,
Just open any Haynes or Chiltons for most GM vehicle and you will see that the fuel rail is pressurized first, determined by the backpressure created by the FPR. The excess is returned back to the tank. It's hard to accept things when you are strong about theories on "how stuff works", but allway keep and open mind. I've worked on my car for 4 years now, and I'm still learning new stuff. But unless you are absolutely sure on the way things work, don't shut someone down when they're trying to help. That's what this message board is for.

 

Yeah, I know.


And I finally understand what you guys meant on the back pressure relief.. And it makes sense.

 

 

Lets revive this shall we.

Anyone have any updates what else to do with this