Just wanted to make a thread on my nitrous kit that i got. Seems to be a good deal going. Local shop here in PA makes these kits and they are common in the LT1 world and LS1 world now. I got the single nozzle LT1 kit and modded it to work, but only few things needed changed.

For a TPI car, a similar setup could be used. I'll point out some details on that.


I also ordered a bottle heater, blow down tube kit, some fittings, and purge kit for this system. I ran different switches too but they give you switches and relays and wiring for their kits. The single nozzle kit is only 400 bucks for everything you need to run it on your car. Purge and heater are extras. Rated up to 150whp. On my car so far they are richer than what i'd like, so you may experiement with jetting to get the fuel right.


I mounted the bottle in the trunk with the bottle opening facing passenger side like this



Designed to face 45 degrees towards the front if mounted in this position. Perfect position for gauge and blow down tube. I just drilled 4 holes in the trunk pan for the brackets and bolted it down. blowdown hole was made with drill bit and dremel tool to open it up to the 6an-like size of that tube.

Nitrous line i ran thru the interior along the passenger side. followed my battery lines right thru the firewall.

Next is the solenoid mounting position. For the Fuel solenoid. I am using holley stealth ram and this kit has pre cut lines with an fittings for placing the nozzle in front of the TB about 6 inches away from opening. The provided brackets werent of much use for my setup so i made my own brackets using 16gauge plain steel sheet i got at tractor supply. Simple and easy, one flat rectangle and a thinner rectangle used to bolt to the rail. Drilled a hole in the platform rectangle to screw the solenoids to. They have holes in the bottom with a screw to mount to brackets

Bolts to the HSR fuel rail bolt with a slightly longer allen head screw i got at Home Depot/Lowes.


Fuel taps into the HSR rail. I had a gauge there for fuel pressure, and wanted to keep it so i bought a T fitting and a swivel 4an male/4an female with a 1/8npt side port. gauge goes into the 1/8 port on the swivel, the T fitting goes into where the gauge used to go on the fuel rail, and the one side of the t fitting is capped. Kinda can see it in the pic

Nitrous solenoids were the same type deal. I chose to mount them near the radiator overflow box. Simple bracket made to bolt to the accessory bracket where the a/c compressor bolts to. See pic




with those in place i could pick a spot for the nozzle. The kit has a threaded 1/8 NPT nozzle for drilling/tapping into metal (drill/tap is not included) or you can use the nozzle retaining nut that is included which can mount in rubber intake hose. I used that for my metal intake tubing anyway since the tap didnt work out well...too thin of metal

Drilled and opened up the hole to fit the retaining nut. Its threaded on the outside to bolt between the walls of intake tubing, and threaded on the inside for the nozzle. Worked out great for me in this position with my custom fabbed exhaust tubing CAI. Used alittle RTV to make sure it sealed up.




For activation, the kit uses a WOT switch that applies 12 volts to the relay once it is depressed. It comes with a universal bracket but i went ahead and ordered their custom designed bracket for TPI/LT1 throttle bottles. 20 bucks for a nice looking bracket and switch. My holley 58mm didnt activate switch at WOT so i drilled a hole in the lever, and put in a long bolt/nut in it so it will depress the switch at WOT. See pic





For the wiring i mounted the relays for the solenoids where the air intake dumps out at... aka where the old battery location was, passenger side. You may beable to do that with it still there but basically anywhere will work as long as you dont mind running some wire

Switches, i mounted my two switches for purge and activation here



I am using a Mallory 685 Hyfire VI ignition box. It features built in window switch and timing retard. its very easy ot use and wire up and i highly recommend it so you dont have to run a nitrous chip. keep your n/a tune in and when the nitrous comes on, it will change it for you.

window switch is just a rpm activated ground, so run the nitrous/fuel relay ground to the window switch.

Timing retard is activated by 12 volts, so run a tap wire off the WOT switch on the TB to the timing retard wire. very simple to do.

Bottle heater stuff is all mounted in the trunk for me. Relay is mounted in the spare tire well and switch is mounted like this



Bottle heater is seen in the bottle pic above. basically a little wrap around velcro attached rubber mat with wiring to heat it up. Comes with a pressure switch so it turns off when desired bottle pressure is hit. Pretty nice setup





Here's the final product.

 

Nice and clean.

 

Welcome fellow addict. Its hard to turn the arming switch off. Also I found that my zex bottle heater has trouble keeping up in the spring and fall. It would help if you rapped your bottle with a blanket during the cool season.

 

At the track the other night, i had a coat laying over it. the exhaust also helps keep that area warm. i drive to the track adn the bottle is already hot enough to run

 

Nice install. Been looking at HSW kits for a while now. Haven't pulled the trigger yet.