Ok so just wanted to get this thread started. I just bought an F1 Procharger. I will be running a big FMIC with it. It is a 12 rib setup. I have a forged bottom end and will be installing splated main caps as well. Car is only for street with maybe a trip once a year to the track.

Questions:

1. What intake should I run. (carbed). I have a Vic Jr. and an Air gap?

2. What CR would you guys suggest? I was thinking 9.0:1 and running 16 to 17 PSI.

3. What Cam would work good? I will be calling COMP, CRANE, and LUNATI, anyone else I should call?

Starting off slow with the questions. I am sure the number will ramp up fast. Thanks for any help!

 

That will do it right there. 8.8-9.3 or so will handle pump gas and that boost with good tune and make your 700whp

Once i get my converter restalled to its optimal stall speed, i expect my numbers to be closer to 700whp on just 14psi. I already have 640 on 12.5 and thats just street tune on a converter thats WAY too loose for this setup. Granted I have 401 cubes to 383, but you should see 700 in the 15-17 psi range with good cam/heads.


I'd go single plane all the way. Ported and flow matched if you can spend extra money.

Cam, dont have to be huge but more rpms you turn the less boost you will need to run but also more stress is on the rods I'd keep that motor reving no higher than 6000 rpm, peak near 5800 ish rpm. Blower cams seem to have more exhaust duration than turbo/nitrous cams so I'd probably go with something like a 230/240 type cam

 

When I called procharger to talk about cams they told me 8-12* more exhaust duration and 112-115 LSA. Through reading on here, reducing exhaust overlap is critical to get as much air in the cylinders as possible.

I would definitely get a cam that is designed for yoru setup, call comp, crower or one of the cam companies and they can definitely set you up with something that will match what you want to do.

My buddy has a 355 running 14lbs, CR is around 8.8:1 to keep it on pump gas.

Def run the single plane to keep the cylinders filled evenly and it will make more power up top with the supercharger.

 

I am looking to make as much power as I can down low. Even if it sacrafices power up high. Even a modest amount. I really want this thig to make a ton of power down low. I am not looking for crazy PEEK #s. 700 would be great to hit, but something really fun off the line is what I really want.

Assuming I am close to 700 PEEK I am pretty sure I will have good power off the line too.

This car is all street, hard to remember sometimes because people build stuff like this to race a lot. I just want it to go to work in the summer and screw around on the weekends.

So I guess my #1 criteria is power as low as possible with my F1, on pump gas and intercooled.

 

That would be my last concern because that much power at low rpms is gonna be impossible to hook up with and if you do get a good tire back there to handle it, that power can break parts. Its gonna be a heck of a ride regardless how much power it makes in the low range. As boost comes on and you hit 600-700whp, its gonna be a handful...much too much for the street

 

I have a f1a too. On the dyno it made about 10 lbs of boost at about 3500 rpm. I see about 18 to 20 lbs of boost at most. I turned mine up to 7000 rpm on the dyno but I dont think I needed to do that. I only have 357 cub in. my compression is 9.6.1
Im running 75 % race gas and 25 % 93 octane.

 

Orr89RocZ: Thanks for your unput. I understand what you are saying. I just want a car with great throttle response and feel. Usually more power down low = great response because the car has the power on tap waiting to be used.

I guess what I really want to say is that I want to make as much power as I can, but not sacrafice low end grunt for top end numbers. Thats all.

My rear end can take the power, my DS can as well, my tranny can't right now, but this years project is just motor, next year will be tranny.

As for tires, I am running a 315 Nitto 555R. Should grap pretty good.

So I getting the F1 delivered tomorrow. I will probably be gitty with exitment when I get it, so I will post pics I am sure. Next week I will order the intercooler off ebay and then start seriously calling around for cams.


Not sure if you guys know this but how does a blower carb work compared to a normal carb? I understand how a normal carb works, but it all has to do with vacuum. When you introduce pressure, and on top of that only sometimes, how does it deal with that and how does it know how much fuel to add?

Thanks. I may add that as its own thread in the carb section or here in power adder if I don't get enough input. I will do a google search now as well.

 

For throttle response do not go with a big carb. Waiting for the dyno run on my QuickFuel 650 going on a 455 Buick. This motor ran a custom ported 950HP that flowed 1000 cfm so a big jump down in size. Long talk with QuickFuel said this is the carb for a street blow through car. Hard for me to believe but will see. Dyno run is sometime soon I hope. They also said if it does not work they will exchange for bigger.

 

forget using a carburator. If u could afford a F1 Procharger u could afford EFI.

 

Go blow thru! I ran an F-1 on my 91z28. 406 small block, Victor JR heads and intake, solid roller blower cam .618 lift, 9.0:1 cr, carb shop built 850cfm. 2/3 pass it went 10.36 at 139, with no intercooler. This was a street car, the car with the blower unhooked went 11.03 at 124mph. This was at 13lbs of boost. I even ran a built 7.5 and never broke it pulling the wheels and 1.43 60 ft's with a 3500rpm stall, th350 with no trans brake. I would recommend a wide band setup, make tuning easy. Good Luck!

 

sailbrd: I agree that a small carb is better than a big one. I will probably be running something similar to you. I am getting a carb from the carb shop in Cali that people always talk about. Apparently they tune the carb PERFECTLY so you just take it out and bolt it on. You just have to supply then with every last stat about your car. No problem. So small carb it is, although in the end I am leaving that decition in the hands of the carb shop.



daverr: I would agree with you if I have bought all this new. I didn't. I got an F1 (new headunit) with all brackets and such to mount to a TPI motor off racingjunk.com for 2,900+shipping. That is not that much. All I need is a cam, carb, carb hat and intercooler. All small beans really, (blower carb is going to be $$$) but you get what I mean. I am not loaded. Just paid off my credit card and threw this on there. So in closing... No I do not have enough money to go out and get another intake, computer, injectors and all that to run this.... few....

ihatemustangs: Thats great that you ran a similar setup. I will be shooting for a 10 second car thats all. Even if it has more in her. More than that is just not needed for the street in my eyes. I will running my T-56. That will be beefed up next year. I already have a Moser rear end with 4.11s. I think 10s shouldn't be a problem. Great to hear you enjoyed yours so much. Can't wait to have mine setup.

Oh and I already have an LM-1 that I use to tune it now. VERY helpful. Something bad *** about having a car with no computer. Old school. I don't want to have to talk about chips and buring unless I am talking about my PC.
Maybe my next build will have a modern motor, but THIS car is staying like this.

I will post pics of it tomorrow. I should be getting it today!

 

how are you coming on your project. I'll be starting one very similar soon and will start a thread on it.

 

dennisbernal91z- Sounds to me like you have a decent plan. I don't know how much boost you're planning to run, but whenever you do get it put all together don't rush tuning it. My experience with the cam side of things for a boosted car is that most cam companies recommended around 10-12 degrees more duration on the exhaust side than the intake.

I'm assuming it helps clear out the exhaust a bit to make room for another charge. The cam I'm running is 224/236 at .050 - but I'm also running a roots blower.

I'd watch out for tangled webs of mis-information while you're researching things about boosted engines...there's A LOT out there. Instead, read up on PROVEN setups.

Detonation can be A LOT WORSE when you're running boost and it'll tear things up alot quicker than N/A. I got pics of my Eagle SIR rod snapped in half when my engine backfired during startup!! That was close to 1K I didn't plan on spending to get it back together.

Good luck with it! Should be a nice ride when it's all done!

....BTW, I've peeped at Orr's car via U-Tube (on another fine Camaro board)...and that thing is a rocket!!

 

Thanks for checking in. The motor is acctually all DONE!!!

Still at the shop. I am picking it up this weekend if the snow is not too bad.
I still have a LOT of work to do till she is ready to fire up.

New prings, all new custom brake lines, new aftermarket MC, Finish wiring, customising my exhaust even more..... etc.

But then the T-56 goes back in, chromoly DS and we are ready to rock. Spring is going to be awsome. The brackets will be a pain to install. I also want to make sure all the plumbing looks awsome so that will take me some time to fab up.

I am actually not shooting for an actual boost level. I am trying to just make sure I don't make more than 700 HP. I don't want to put too much wear and tear on the block.

 

Damage from Detonation on a Forged 383 LT1 with a procharger and AFR heads in an Impala SS. Dynoed at allmost 600 RWHP and it is a beast. 1st and second gear are useless. This engine has been nothing but a source of heartbreak for the owner, It's been fairly reliable but requires constant attention. I think the engine builder F'ed up on this one.

 

I wish a blown head gasket was all I found on mine...I think I posted these pics before, but so you know what detonation can do on a boosted engine:


When they backfire....THEY BACKFIRE!!

 

ummm.... WOW. That is crazy. I will do EVERYTHING in my power to make sure I dont' flirt with detonation. Since I am not racing, I am not flirting with max power output, but still, damn. At least I have AAA, lol.

Thats a start.

I wonder if running an intake temp gauge will help, maybe setup to a shiftlight or something. If the carb/pump are up to the task, then wouldn't the first sign of detonation be the intake temps rising? Or is it too late by then?

Also how come no one runs fans on thier intercoolers? Just an idea. Every time I ask, people just belt out, stupid idea, too much $$$. 1 flexalite is afordable as hell, plus the draw in amps is low, mounting is easy and they are thin. Wouldn't this help the intercooler not get heat soaked?

 

Fan on the intercooler. Anytime you can decrease intake air temp you will get more power and less chance for detonation so I don't think it is a bad idea at all. There are kits out there that use CO2 or Nitrous oxide to cool the intercoolers so I don't know how people can say its a bad idea.

I know when I had my twin turbo Stealth Dyno'd I only got one dyno run before power started falling off from the intercoolers getting heat soaked and I had larger aftermarket intercoolers.

 

"1st and second gear are useless"

That is the problem with that much power. How can one safely get the power to the ground? It is no problem at all for the rear end to break loose and spin around on you and cause a spin out or lose control.

 

That is why I will be the ONLY person allowed to drive my car, and I will have to feather the gas thru first and second I guess. Someday I will drop my rear gear from 4.11 to low 3s that will make the car use the power band better. But that is next season. This season will be just getting the motor online and ironing out the kinks the will DEFENITLY happen. haha.

So much to do, so little time. Next week the motor will go in so that is a big first step tword finishing this build,


again...

 

Hey, I just wanted to ad a link of my friends Impala doing a burnout. To me it sounds like he got into forth gear but the description says it was only third. BTW, it only dynoed 550 RWHP at this point but since has better heads and more boost. Plus its the D1SC instead of the bigger F1 procharger.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z49IefSWA-A

It is a beast

 

Nothing short of full slicks on the street in a tubbed setup with optimal suspension will work IMO The rear end comes around in a hurry with a 600+whp car. I just took mine for a test drive on the new turbos and only hit 6psi and it sidekicks that rear. Its an animal but I enjoy it.

 

Hell yeah. haha.

I can't wait for mine to be done. I get it is scary how fast you can get from say 30-90. That was really fun with 355HP, 6 and change is going to be stupid fun.

 

Dennis, be careful man. Right before I sold mine (new motor setup) I could spin the tires at 50mph hammering the gas. Good to see you've still got yours and are knee deep in a project.

 

Did you start a thread on the new turbos? Finally install the 70 mm setup with .96 A/Rs?

 

Still on .68's since the .96's will require me to either trim my downpipe length or make a spacer for my wastegate tubes. I wasnt ready to try that so I'm gonna rock the .68's for now. No thread started until i get results. Havent updated the thread here.

First test passes down the street on 8 pounds says its not really changing fuel demand so I dont think the 70's give me anything over the 60's but its hard to tell until I run it at the track or put it on the dyno. IF the weather clears up i'll put it on the dyno within next few days...really shooting for this weekend. It feels kinda weak on 8 psi but maybe I'm used to 15. I never ran it on 8 psi much At this level it all is a blur, cant tell what is what, 8 or 15 it just pulls

 

Center section is gone on your grill. Was that a real pain to do? My intercooler is in the same spot. I know it won't get all that much air thru the two openings.

 

Naw, it took two minutes to take it out and cut the center section and rip out the duct work.

 

What did you use? A sawsall or something like that? Just curious. I may have to copy you to get the air flow I need. I also may add a fan. But these are all small details. What about your paint, what did you do about that in there? Wasn't it all messed up? Do you have any real close up pics? Or did you get it painted after?

I like the look, totally changes the look of the car.

 

I may beable to get you pics but I think I cut everything off first then had it repainted but it wouldnt have messed anything up if done right. Cutting out the parts takes a cutoff wheel. It melts through plastic very well. Sawzall can do it too but i have more control with the wheel