One of the things I've done this year is a new IC/radiator setup

Old Procharger 3-core setup



Picture of new radiator and new Intercooler also will fit the AC condensor and a trannycooler between them



New lower radiator support

 

Testing





You can se the radiator is moved forward to give me more clearence with 12-rib setup and fans.



Painted



Airscoop mounted





The hood locking device would go right down in the IC so I had to adjust the hole with a hammer and bend the hook backwards, also made a protection plate for the IC.






Car is started some small issues left before testdrive……….

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXGIGVI2HEU

 

I am kind of surprised to see a very expensive Procharger IC replaced with a $100 Ebay IC. The Procharger setup seemed better for flow but less temperature drop. Is that the 24x12x4 or 24x12x3 Ebay IC? How much more do you expect the Ebay IC to cool? Will the temp. vs. flow restriction (PSI drop) be better now?
Overall, just trying to figure out why you are changing the IC.

 

That was my initial thought as well, why would you use one of those chinese things with inferior cores?

 

is that an air conditioning condenser in there?

 

Its a try to get lower airtemps, will se if it gets better or not. I still have the procharger IC so it wont take long to swap if it doesnt get better.

Yes, AC condensor is still there, streetcar you know

 

It is definitely worth a try. It looks like the 24x12x4 in the pics. I am interested in the results once you get it back on the road.

 

thanks for the pics!

i'm looking at that same IC I think 31"x12" overall length(same size as radiator.

I don't have a tranny cooler or a/c so i was going to put it flush with the radiator but have the inlet/outlet at the top and sneak the pipes between the radiator and the radiator side supports. I have room to move the radiator forward if I need too.

I think i may squirt some washer fluid in it too depending on the results i get. I haven't told the wife how much we're getting back in taxes yet

 

ebay intercoolers have been proven to work very well,u just cant try to put 800hp worth of air threw one that can only flow enough for 450.
most ppl dont relize what size core they actually need and just go by what the ebay sellers rate them as,this usually leeds to to small of a core

 

Its not the flow problem. The procharger one will out cool the ebay one due to the tank design. If you don't like the mounting tip the procharger one up. Otherwise pm me a price on the procharger core......

 

you know, you say that but there are people that have run the smaller 3" ones on the TTF well into the >800hp range. I'm tempted to try one myself, a 4" core with more tubes would probably be more appropriate for a V8, but will also block more airflow through the radiator and it's not like these cars have too much cooling to start with.

 

So, how did it work?

While I'm at it I know someone asked and i'm sure that more than a few of us are wondering, is that one with a 3 or 4" core?

 

wondering myself even though this is an old post

 

Well its working, atleast

Had some issues last year and havent thought so much about the IC thing.

(transmission/convertor/rear end ... and so on...) Oh, snapped the woodruff key also

But I'll tell you what I'll do, I'll hook up a second MAP sensor before the IC and log it "against" the one in the intake to see how big the pressure drop is. Since I would like more boost I would also like to know.

But still have some thing to sort out before I mount the blower on.....so cant promise how long it will take before I get the readings.....

its a 4inch thick

 

gta looking good, i was reading over at code59 about your DFCO issues, did you figure any of that out yet?

what are your intake air temps?

if i remember correctly on mine using the procharger 3core intercooler and a snow methanol stage 2 injection the iat was close to having no boost at all

are you using any kind of water/meth injection? might be worthwhile

 

DFCO- have not spend much time with it yet... having some other issues to deal with first... But since I activated closed throttle VE it seem to got better so I'll tweak it some more later......

Dont want to run water or alky...yet.....

Just want to get all minor things sorted out and then put the procharger on and see the pressure drop.....

 

Well have done some testing.......

No WOT runs yet, just approx 70-80% TPS then I blew the intake pipes a few times have added some clamps, will weld some "bumps" later so the clamps dont slip...

But since I dont go WOT I dont want to make any conclusions yet, and I need a 3bar map before the IC, the 2bar max out quick due to the stall speed....I use 3bar in the intake.

a mustang used same IC on a 4.6L engine and had 610rwhp/720rwNm through a T-56 at 17psi....but could maybe had more with a diffrent IC

I'll be back anyone have a 3bar MAP to sell cheap?

 

I've ordered a 3bar map but sorry there will be no results this year. Engine trouble

But everything is set up and the logging works so next year I will have some data......

 

Check my build thread. I have rods that attach to all of my piping so they don't easily blow them off. Also, do you have a surge protecter(blow-off valve) on your system? That will help your pipe isssue if its on decell or when you're letting off of the gas. With your setup I bet you need more than the small one that comes with some of the systems.

As for the key, are you talking about the crank key? If so, what did you do to fix it? I broke one as well, and although the car is back together I'm debating on pinning my balancer...

 

use a big Tial BOV this year instead of the surge valve procharger uses on their street kits.

Well, I drilled a hole in crank and damper "from the front" and put a pinn in, just like they do on LS1 engines... but If I'd know I had to pull the engine again this winter I'd just machined the crank for a second key.........