OK, I have a 89' Formula 350. It's an automatic which was beefed up a little and has a 2400 stall. The rear is the 9 bolt with a fresh rebuild and 3.73 gears. It has Edelbrock headers, no cats, and a Flowmaster muffler. I put in a ZZ4 cam and Edelbrock double roller chain set. The injectors are stock 22 lb with the stock throttle body. The rest of the engine is bone stock. I also have an ATI D1-SC running 9 psi. and a two core intercooler. The car can consistently run 13.50's and has done a best of 13.25 @ 104.84 with a 1.95 60'. Is this good for what I have done, or should I expect more out of it? I kind of thought I would hit high 12's with it. What do you guys think?

 

weigh your car and have it chassis dyno tuned. I have seen thirdgens that tip the scales closer to 4000#'s, especially with speaker boxes (read my response to this post on weight reduction) https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=102171 also we have gotten up to 130 more RWHP out of a "as installed" supercharger kit just by dynotuning. the kits are produced with a dead rich FMU tune. and sometimes the AFPR has to be turned down alot, most people really over enrichen (read to high fuel press). dont use funky plugs (fancy), use those autolite race nonresistor copper plugs, our dyno (and many others) have confirmed they are the best. I like accel 300+ plug wires but any of the large conductors from MSD and especially Taylor can help alot. for an ignition system, look at the crane HI6-TR it is like the MSD6BTM a little more expensive though but it actually works (we have tested several MSD BTM's that will not retard at any boost level no matter how the dial is turned, we dont know why.) Using a retarding ignition system allows for high initial advances that make good power down low, but safely retard timing as boost comes in. I like to reduce how much the box retards when at the race track and using race gas.

 

Any guesses on what I should be running? I'd like to have an idea as to where I stand now vs. where I should be.