Way to go Mark. Persistance and patients paids off I guess. Glad to hear you didn't punch the motor anymore. :sillylol: :rockon:

 

Well it's official, she runs!! Got the spacers from the machine shop and after screwing around for several hours and adding a 3/8" thick steel brace there is no flex and she starts and runs like a champ, belt problems are all gone. Now I have to do something about my oil lines. The feed line to the blower keeps coming off so it's getting braided line and proper fittings. There is nothing more disheartening than watching your engine pump oil 30 feet into the neighbors yard. Looks like now I can start flushing out all the little demons that are sure to pop up with this kind of project.

 

Awesome , Congrats man.

Hey anything diff from the template you shiped me now?
E-mail me at Chris@cecoatings.com

Id like to find out the size/length of the spacers etc.

Im getting rid of the paxton bracket to the same guy who bought the head unit from me.

 

Well I finally got her out on the road! Just a quickie though, at least untill I get an inspection sticker on it

First trip out I hit about 5psi and blew one of my hoses off. Doesn't matter because it made all the headaches well worth while. Big grin from ear to ear. Fixed the hose and went back out. Couldn't really get into it all the way because it has been raining all day and the roads were wet, "traction limited" would be an understatement. I maxed out at about 6 psi, didn't go over 5000rpm though. Looks like the pulley I have is gonna be about right.

I have the prom very conservative right now too, bout 28 deg max at WOT and a fair amount of extra fuel at the top. Good thing too as the fmu isn't working. Still ran a hair rich with the extra fuel though. After going through the scan data there is no detonation and the manifold air temp never went above 110.

Now I have to address the problems. My fuel pressure didn't rise with boost, oil return fitting is leaking and the worst is the noise the blower is making. At idle it makes kind of a metallic groaning noise, goes away as soon as rpm goes above idle or I let out the clutch a little and put some kind of load on the engine, oil pressure is 40 at idle and it goes away when I remove the blower belt. Could well be the blower, possibly one of the pullies though, please *** let it be one of the pullies. Time to get a stethoscope and see if I can isolate exactly where the sound comes from.

 

Awesome work man... Just little things to work out now. (hopefully that headunit dont need a rebuild)

Time for some audio/video shots man.

or Just some new pic's

 

Looks like I've nixed all the problems so far. Ran some brainded steel line for the oil feed, resealed the oil drain fitting, tested the FMU, it is working properly, just couldn't see the pressure jump in the short time I've been able to get on it. Best of all it turns out the noise was the pvc pipe I'm using to attach the air filter, it was pushed in too far so the pipe was hitting the blower case and vibrating. Looks like the next order of business is setting up the alky/water injection setup, just need to figure out where I'm going to place everything. Now if it would just stop with the lousy weather, an inch of sleet freezing rain mix in the last 24 hours

Pictures coming soon, need a new camera, mine is dead

 

Congratulations Mark!! This has been a long time coming for you! Great work!

 

Not only great work to Mark, but to the board and the members that helped!

It gives me hope for humanity when "strangers" can pool together and help out someone who asked for assistance. I didn't read one negative response in the whole thread! It is easy to squash another's dream, it take heart to make it come true.

 

Mark,

Way to go man. I just read the entire thread for the first time. Some parts made me laugh, Jack Daniels. Some I can relate with, tossing ratchet & swearing like a trucker. Hope you can get all the gremlins worked out and avoid that a-hole Murphy and his frigin' law. Great support from everyone who replied too.

Hank O.

 

I just found this and read the whole thing

I have a procharger setup and was wondering what that part# was for the tensioner you got from a big rig.

sounds like what I've been looking for. I don't like the manual one mine came with

And I saw something about a brace to the back of the altnator for a D1 I don't have that. I did get a little steel thing and a bolt never saw a use for it now I feel dumb

anyone have a pic

thanks and good luck on the novi

 

He made the bracket completely custom so thats why he might have things you don't.

 

This is what I'm talking about in the middle of this post he says something about ATI adding a mount to the back of the alternator.

I have a D1 and the bracket flexs more that I would like. I have this little steel square peace that came in its own bag with a bolt that looks like the ones that hold the head unit on. I never knew what it was for.


I still don't know, I went out and looked and don't see any way it would hook up to the alternator

does any one have a D1 and does your have one of these bracket.

Thanks

 

Heres the post about the ati bracket for j91z28d1 https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...t=d1sc+bracket great pics of the bracket, thanks to maniacc.

The tensioner I am using is from an International 466 part number 2028958C93 also from Dayco DC89408, prices should range from about 85-100 or so. So far it works great, just had to shim the pulley out a touch. All it needs to mount is the center bolt hole, any existing bolt hole on the ATI bracket near the belt should work, and a small hole for the nipple to keep it from rotating. So far I haven't seem any evidence of belt slippage but I'll keep everyone informed as this may be a good option to those with manual tensioners.

I had her out all day yesterday even though I failed inspection. Cracked turnsignal lense, been that way since I bought the car and never had a problem till now. Least I have a form that says I tried in case I get pulled over.

Spent the day working out the bugs, not many of them, and none blower related =) Moved the battery to the hatch, had a battery termial pop off. Once I was happy with everything I went in search of ****. It was then I realized the chip I had programmed had the rev limiter turned WAY down just to be safe. Apparently not safe enough for a honda Only looking at 5-6 psi of boost right now. Seems a little low but we'll see today, gonna do alot of scanning and work on the chip. Cant do too much untill I get the water injection setup running, unfortunately the pvc pipe I'm using is too think to mount the spray nozzle. Time to look into doing the intake with stainless or aluminum tubing.

Thanks again to everyone for all the help and support. :hail:

 

Thanks!

I never even thought about doing a search

well I don't have that bracket so I don't feel so dumb.

I'll have to make it because I have a I have a D1 not a scd1 so I don't have room for that.

On yours I think I read you were using the crank pulley from ATI.

the ATI has a step up ratio of like 4.25 to 1 so they use a big crank pulley, 8in

You may need to get a real small pulley on the blower to get the boost you want.


But 6#s is still alot of fun.

good luck!

 

Well further testing reveals the FMU isnt working. Ironically it leans out right where I had the rev limit set. Now that I have the limiter set where it should be the problem is apparent. At 4500rpm or so she backfires out the exhaust really bad. Tested the FMU with the trusty ole Mity-vac and the pressure rises just fine so it's gotta be the line going to it. The connections look fine but I'll have to go over it with a fine toothe comb tomorrow.

Will have some pics tomorrow as well, finally got a new camera, as much as I hate to spend good car money

I'll try to get some good pics of the tensioner setup too for the guys looking into it.

 

Well here are the pics, well start off with the tensioner...

 

And here she is. Got some basic tidying up to do but this is at least functional, well almost anyhow.

The FMU is still giving me fits. Did a full blown test of the lines and FMU with the ole mity-vac and it functions properly, just not when I actually test it on the road. Gotta try rerouting the line to the FMU, teed off all over the place, everything else functions, just not the FMU. If all else fails it looks like I'll just swap over to the sy/ty code a bit sooner. Gotta check into injectors first, dont trust the 19lb'ers. Gotta figure out what injectors to run.

 

looks good to me

thanks for the pic of the tensioner, going to pick one up when i get the money

watch out thoes GM 19#s are junk if there anything like the 22s on the 350s mine lock up at like 50# for me.

from the stuff I've broke boost doesn't play. you can get away with some stuff with N2O but be carfull or you'll be buying pistons.

my FMU did some strange things to. I thought I could use a compressor to set the fuel pressure. so I hooked it up to the vac line and tee into my boost guage and set the FMU to get 85# of fuel pressure at 15# on the gauge. but when I took it out on the road it was never the same. always lower not sure why.

I wouldn't try, it didn't work but if you do start real slow compressors don't like being turned down that low.

I say wait till you get the new ECM and injectors

 

Well I decided to ditch the FMU and repin for the sy/ty code. Of course things immediately went in the toilet. I stripped the intake down to change out the injectors to 24's, decided now would be a good time to do the gaskets as she's leaking oil out the rear of the intake. After setting the intake back on, I broke an intake bolt. Thank *** there was enough sticking up to get with vice grips. I finally get it back together enough to prime the pump and check for leaks before i put it back together completely. One of the injectors blows the seal on the connector out. It's blowing gas out through the connector of the injector After pondering what to do I've decided to just hunt down another 24# injector and hope that the rest are all good. Got them when I bought the LT1 intake, they were supposedly all good.

Oh well if nothing else I'm becoming much more patient with these little problems.

 

My boss just installed a Novi 1000 on his 2000 mustang. He used 42lb injectors. You might want to look into injectors larger than 24lb if you're going to run some boost in her. Setup looks awesome though! Can't wait to see the times she's gonna put down on the track!

 

anything new?

 

I'm looking for bigger injectors now. The 24's would work for the setup as is, but I figure while it's all apart I may as well get injectors big enough to handle a 350 with a bit more boost. The 305 is really just a test mule, 130,000 miles and still runs like a champ, but I realise what I'm doing to the poor thing Already got an engine in the garage as backup that just needs a quick check. Just need injectors and she hits the streets again!

 

I have a set of the stock 22 lbs (L98) injectors for sale. $50.00 if you are interested. Also, I have a question. Are you running a single or twin intercooler setup or one at all?

Mike (1bad91Z)

 

I have 30# SVO too but I've never sold anything over the net before.

 

Thanks for thinking of me guys but I just picked up a set of 36lb injectors for a good price. Those should do me just fine for some time to come. Hopefully she'll be running again next weekend.

Right now I'm not running any intercooler at all, it's not really necessary just yet, air temps have barely gone up past where they were when the engine was stock, but that'll change eventually I have all the parts I need for my water/alcohol injection setup but I have to figure a way to mount the injector nozzle, the PVC pipe is too thick to mount the nozzle the way I had planned.

 

Glad to see you worked out the tensioner problems. It looks like its been a pain in the a**, but I'm sure you'll be happy with the end results. I'm a tad concerned about your injector sizing, but other than that everthing looks like it really came together. I'm using 24lb injectors on a 355 c.i. motor that sees on occasion 14-15 lbs of boost and they have proven to be more than adequate. Larger than that and idle pulse width will become a major concern. They will, however, be adequate if you intend to do away with the FMU and run a Ty/Sy setup. All in all great work and keep us informed.

 

Looks like all the problems have been worked out. I switched over to the sy/ty setup and she runs like a dream. Making about 10 lbs boost at 5500 rpm which is more than I wanted but I'm not complaining. With the sy/ty code I've almost completely eliminated any detonation, makes tuning a hell of a lot easier. Just finished setting up the alky/water injection about an hour ago, which should totally rid me of any detonation. Tomorrow I'll give that a test and see what happens. Dying to try out the new romulator. Tomorrow will be tuning day for sure.

 

So what kinda luck did ya have with the water/alki ? Dyno it yet?

 

She's running pretty damn good at the moment. The water/alky setup seems to do the trick pretty well, simple and functional. Unfortunately dyno time is not in the cards any time soon, just cost too damn much right now. This was a budget attempt anyhow and I'd say a rather successful attempt at that. I will say that power is pretty impressive over stock and the engine handles it with grace. I've even been forced to put her in daily driver status with the temporary demise of my blazer, considering I deliver pizza for the bulk of my income right now I'd say it's pretty damn impressive, makes for a damn fun day at work.