Okay, Im looking to build my motor and still make it emmisions compliant (got like 6 more years), and was looking at the weiand 142 blower for my motor. I was thinking of building a second gen with a big block, but that is proving to cost more, and would be about as fast as the boosted 350 (I have a 402 to build as a big block). My setup is the t/a in the sig, and it already has 8.5:1 compression, and 487 casting heads. Could I just bolt the blower on with 6 lbs of boost and as long as it gets enough fuel be safe? What kind of performance can I expect. Should it put me solidly in the 12's? I have no idea what the car runs now, Im guessing mid 14's. What kind of difference would this blower make in terms of performance. Would it be like the upgrade from the LG4 to the 350 all over again? I want something I dont have to swap tons of crap around to get it to pass emmisions. As it is now Ive got my work cut out for me.

 

I think you're going in the right direction. If you have a low-compression motor you could bolt it on, then you're way ahead of the game. Bolwer motors go boom from 3 basic problems: 1. too much compression 2. too much spark advance 3. not enough fuel.

Keep the spark advance REALLY conservative- not more than 28* total timing (excluding vacuum advance) while you are sorting the combo out. Anything over 32* and you're asking for trouble. May I HIGHLY suggest a $5 "timing tape" from Summit that wraps around your stock balancer (8" and 6.75" models available). THis will help you KNOW what your total timing is instead of guessing at it. You can learn a LOT with this simple stick-on tape and a timing light.

Otherwise it sounds like you've got a good handle on #1 and #3. I think a high 12 is definitely possible. You might need to address traction becuase what little you have now will be a DISTANT memory when the blower goes on. It's similar to nitrous in that it makes GOBS of low-mid RPM torque. I dare you not to break out in a full-snort giggle the first time you lay the pedal to the carpet!

For emissions compliance I'd call Holley (they make the Weiand 142 and Holley 144 blower) and talk it over with them. They make kits that are emissions compliant, but at waht level, in what states??? If you're worried ONLY about what comes out the tailpipe then don't worry- the blower won't affect emissions at idle and light throttle hardly at all. It's really only the visual inspection that's the hard part to pass.

 

Cars got dished pistons and 76 cc heads, and a high volume mechanical fuel pump. As for timing, I have base line set at like 10 degrees and it doesnt think of knocking. So I could drop it down a little more and go from there.

Traction right now is interesting and if the ground or tires or cold, first gear is all wheelspin. Would give me an excuse to put some meaty tires on the back instead of my 235's.

I worry about underhood inspection as the system in my state is undergoing some changes quickly and it could be difficult to get it to pass that. But I would rather go with the 177, as we have a big block car in the house and another ig block to build, and that is better suited for putting on a big block with a different manifold incase i get sick of the small block. Id just use less boost with it to start then i would with the 142.

My dilemma now is between blowing the 350 or getting a 2nd gen project and putting my 402 in it. Itd cost the same, but the trans am is already basically finished.

Desktop dyno right now shows the blown 350 making the power difference that the 350 had over my bone stock LG4. If I could get that kind of gain again, wow would it be worth it. I think its hard for me to beleive that little silver thing can do so much.

Oh man, now I want a blower, Im just like 1200 short right now I plan a year or so ahead with my car I swear. Its quite bad.

 

Short of cash?? Just charge it, man! That's what I do, then pay it off over several months. Heh heh. Financing is magic.

Yes, a little silver thing can make that big a difference. It will feel like you strapped a second engine under the hood. The grin factor is off the chart. You'll be wondering if you're doing something illegal.

BTW- don't trust that a high volume mechanical pump will keep up by itself. Actually put a fuel pressure gague on the fule line just before it goes in the carb (and after any fuel filters) and DUCK TAPE THE GAGUE TO THE WINDSHIELD, TEMPROARILY. Fuel pressure at idle is meaningless. You need to know what it is at WOT at high RPMs- that's where it will drop off first if you're outrunning the fuel system.

It's not so much the pump's capacity as the long draw through a skinny tube from the tank. Under hard acceleration it can starve in the lower gears even though the pump's overall capacity is adequate. Ask me how I know.

 

I do have a fuel pressure gauge installed, but before the fuel filter, and mainly just because it looks cool under there. How would I add a guage after the filter with a quadrajet? The filter is like integral with the carb.

For adding fuel, something like an electric near tank perhaps? Oh man, now Im going into uncharted territory.

Yeah, right now my parents pay my credit card bill as all that goes on it is college expenses. Im betting charging 2000 worth of stuff would get me kicked out of the house and them not paying for that. My mom flipped out when I got the trans am as it was. Oh well, at least the repo man will never catch me.

 

Definitely ditch the filter in the nose of the QJet. it's just too small to feed it when HP starts to get serious. Use an inline filter- Fram makes a nice see-through one with a decent sized paper element in the middle (non-replacable). Definitely DON'T use one of thos glass filters with the little replacable screen element inside- they don't flow worth a damn. Once you've got an inline filter it's pretty easy to attach the fuel pressure gague right up next to the carb's inlet.

If you need more fuel then yes, a "helper" electric pump back by the tank does wonders. That's exactly what I do. Use the Carter 5 PSI street pump to give a little "push" up to the block mounted mechanical pump. It also won't overpower the mechanical pump and you don't need a fuel pressure regulator- the mechanical pump contiues to do that for you. The two together will move more fuel than either one alone and NOTHING holds steady fuel pressure better than an 'ol mechanical fuel pump. Much more reliable system than a single big electric pump with a separate regulator. This system on my Malibu holds 6 PSI under any and all conditions. And if either pump fails I can drive home on just the remaining pump.

You just mount it to the front edge of the trunk floor, just behind the rear axle- it's an easy place to mount the pump vertical (it comes with a mounting bracket- just drill and bolt on) and tap into the existing factory fuel line near where it exits the fuel tank. I recommend buying a fuel pump relay kit to power it (also easy to wire in), but it isn't strictly necessary since it only draws about 9 amps.

This combo has gotten me safely into the 11s. Install time: 2-3 hours with the fuel pump relay kit, going slow.