i am really thinking about a nitrous kit and i see people say 100h/p will shave 1 sec or 1/2 a sec... well my question in when do you push the button? i have so much traction problems i couldnt see hitting the nitrous till the biging of third gear... and thats on a 3 spd car...... let me know how you guys are doing this with out smoken the tires.... im scared to put stickies on it for i have a stock rear end.. some day i'll get a 9inch tho... or do you think i'll bee safe with stock... it runs 14 flat with lots of tire spin 1 first then agin in second

 

I am pretty sure whenever you push the button to activate the nitrous you are just getting it ready.It really doesn't "turn on" till wot is reached.

That is way my buddies mustang is.

 

the button just arms it, most systems have a "window switch" that actually lets nitrous flow into the engine at set rpms. this way it only comes on when you go wot, and cuts off while you shift and comes back on when you reach the set window. nitrous in an engine that isnt running at full throttle equals byebye motor.

 

you are only getting a 14 out of a 388?

 

A 388 stroker is all about torque.Plus it says he is spinning the tires.


If you can't hook up you can't go fast!

 

right, but nitrous isn't going to help him in any way then. And he should be able to hook up better than that. Taking it easy off the line and such would still get him above that time.

 

just because im wondering, what kind of MPH are you getting?

either way, GET SOME DRAG RADIALS, i understand not wanting to break your rearend, but 10 bolts are a dime a dozen, and youre not going to hook THAT hard on drag radials.

i know if i wasnt trapping near 110 with almost a 400 inch motor, id be pissed.

adam

 

Ive seen a mid 12 second car run a low 13's after nitrous was added (but oh what an MPH)

 

how does a 1.6 or 60' sound?
have seen a drag radial propel a car into the 9's

think he is hooking pleanty hard enough

 

i had to go grab my time slips... outta my car.. ok my 60 foots were all close to 2.8 wich sucks and my times were all 14.00 - 14.23 all of wich are at 99-100 mph my car is an auto and evon if i take off easy when i shift it up to second "slap shift" the tires bust loose agin... and then chirp when it shifts to third... any recomindations as to some cheap street/slicks to get that will grab.. oh and what is WOT? when talking about nitrous.. sorry im a anmature when it comes to that how much time will a set of slicks gain me? just curious

 

dude if your running a 2.8 60' then you REALLY need some help there
mine are in the high 2.3 to low 2.4 range and I'm only a low 16 second car... and my car has traction issues also

what I would say is get some BFG drag radials and slap them on there when you go to the track


what rpm are you launching at?
also what suspension work has been done?
a lot of people are prolly going to tell you to get some subframe connectors and lower control arms prolly to help you out a little
drag radials would help a bunch


also WOT = wide open throttle

 

2.8 60ft???

I pulled 2.1's on street tires witha 305...

 

2.8 short times?

Haha. Learn how to drive before you buy juice.


Launch at part throttle, don't just stomp it.

You should be able to hit 1.9x -> 2.1x short times on street tires EASILY with stock suspension.

 

it was also 30 degrees out so that dont help traction and 2.8 was with out spining if i just tromped it the car didnt evon move just sits in one place i think it may have somthin to do with my torqion bar i made a new crosmember and braket to hold that mabe i should position the front of it lower? or higher to get more traction.

i seriously think most my problem is a need a posi in my car the open 3.42's are killen me pass. side tire always busts loose

 

sounds like you need to practice your launching bad my car runs 13.90s on the motor and 13.0s spraying 150hp. I cut consistent 2.05 60' I don't spray untill I hit about 4000rpm in second. im traping 99 mph on the motor and 110 spraying

This is with the ported tpi setup on.I just completed the holley steath ram install yesterday and I am very pleased with the results. I am going to the track tommarow to test it out.he he he

 

I believe the stealth ram may respond very well like a mini ram or LT1 to the flow of nitrous I want to know how it works out :-)

 

well theres your problem right there...you need a posi...

i dont know of any single tire thatll hold a 388in motor

get a posi then launch again...

 

I have seen other cars with this nitrous problem one even went slower on the nitrous, higher MPH just like you too. get a posi you need to find out if you have a 28 spline axle (you might not) here is a link to SLP's $99 posi unit for a 26 spline axle they sell about the same price on ebay every day, get the "eaton" style with springs, instead of the racheting/paddle style. here is a search link that shows a bunch on ebay

 

after reading my post above use this as a visual guide to finding the kind of posi you want. both of these shown in the picture are available in 28 and 26 spline. this guide is for stock units only.

 

2.8, dear ***, get some tires/ and a rear end, you gotta be kidding me, but youre mph is still low, if youre spinning that long.

and you cant just throw DR's on a 9 second car and go run 9s'
the guys who do run 9s on drag radials, have electronics to pull alot of timing so they can get out of the hole.


adam

 

there are not very many guys that run 9's on DR, and those that do have alot spent on suspension and alot involved to lighten thier car every where to about 2200-2500 lbs then put the weight back in the bumper as balast whether they admit it or not.

 

There’s just a ton of problems there.

I’m pretty sure that not even the worst driver in the world would be limited to a 2.8 60 in ANY f-body that is capable of moving under it’s own power. My ’83 TA with it’s wimpy 305 was able to knock down 1.9’s with plain old radial TA’s and an open rear.

Second, 99-100mph is what my near stock stock L98 formula runs on 16y/o radials (at 13.60). In a 3rd gen that means you’re making about 290hp and getting about 230-240 to the wheels. If that’s all it’s got then I’d find whoever built that “stroker 388” and kick him in the nuts a couple of dozen times.

Sounds like you’ve got other things to worry about before spraying that car.

 

ok guys i knew somthin was wrong with my car soo i started asking around and i had an old auto tech instructor tell me adjust my vaulves running a full turn after they stop ticking.. i use to have them just a half turn. there hydrolic. so anyways i took it out yesterday whith my old worn out tires. the track was much much better i could launch with out much tire spin 60 foot was 2.0-2.1 but my 1/4 mile was horible all high 14's and not consistant at all... at least last sunday i could run 14.1 all day. and suggestions?

 

redo the valves, i like to set them up on a motor with a little rpm use like this.

tighten nut until the pushrod doesnt rattle up and down, then another 1/4 turn.


works for me, keeps them from pumping up, they will be a little loud at idle though.



adam

 

ok well i adjusted them back to a half turn the other day before i got your post and it made a hudge inprovement. not running so ruff and felt alot more responcive i dont get to test it at the track till this friday tho... im thinking the 650cfm carb might be restricting my alittle too. when i get the money im going to bye a 750 double pumper and slap on there.... "figures crossed for mid 13's at least" with the 650cfm

 

Typically, if you adjust them till they stop clatterig and then turn them in you’ll overtighten them so some valves will be held open and you’ll run a little rough…

If you want to do it running (which is a good way of doing it, but I’m usually too lazy to do it that way), the best way is to get them all quiet and then back them off one at a time till they start making noise and turn them back in till just past where they stop.

You really want them to be as loose as possible and still having zero lash. What I usually do is just do it with the engine off, just spin the pushrod between my fingers as I tighten the adjusting nut and as soon as I’ve got contact I’ll go 1/8-1/4 turn tighter. If you leave them loose enough that they’re clattering, with factory lifters you’ll tend to eventually screw up the plunger retainer clip and lanch small parts into your engine.

Again, if it’s really a 388, there’s really no reason to be running as slow as you’re running. The MPH is almost entirely independent from the rest of your chassis setup, tires, posi…, and any decent stroker should be running about 110mph or better.