Hey guys whats up? I'm planning on getting my nitrous stuff ordered by the end of the month but wanted to make sure i got all the right idea for parts before i go ahead and get it. Im getting the nos tbi system(75-125 shot), moroso 8mm wires, colder plugs (what kind?) a-piller duel pod, auto meter nos gauge and air/fuel mixture gauge. The only thing im still not sure about is what kind of plugs and how/what i need for the nos gauge to work, jegs doesnt seam to have about a 4-6 foot #4 hose for the gauge i know its not much longer than 4 foot from my floor to the piller. My car is an All stock 92 tbi 305 i plan to get full exhaust next follwed by a 3.73 posi then shift kit the car has 81k on it and doesnt burn anything. Anything i missed or need?I am gonna get bottle warmer ect as well but not right away, also they guy i work with is selling an extra 10lb tank also a large tank for refilling and a scale for 40 bucks just need to recertify them. Any help/suggestions would be a great help thanks.

 

Good luck getting any info on this board about tbi or nitrous. 95% is about tpi and turbos, anything else they dont like to respond to. You should be fine with a stock plug on a 75 to 100 shot, above that i would prolly go a heat range colder. If I were you I would hold off on the nitrous though and atleast do the bolt ons first. A good ignition wouldn't hurt either.

 

The nitrous pressure gauge will probably mount to the bottle itself(NOS brand ~$40). The autometer nitrous gauge w/ sending unit is $200+ I would just get the air/fuel gauge and a fuel pressure safety switch(if it'll work). I would also suggest starting out with a bottle heater (the N2O pressure changes with temp). For plugs just go to the auto parts store, they should be able to help (1 or 2 colder).

 

dont expect much from your A/F ratio meter during nitrous runs. the O2 usually shut down because they have a tendancy to get cooled during the cycling of the juice and that results in an inactive A/F gauge. I have talked to fast times race cars about it so dont feel bad because even the really expensive wide band O2's have this prob. an EGT is much more helpful in tuning NO2 than a A/F ration meter here are two links to help you TBI nitrous wisehttps://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...83#post1083283

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=95231

 

That’s the same kit I ran for a while. I had around 75K miles when I installed my kit, ran around 5 bottles through at 100hp. I ran the stock heat range plugs, 2 degrees of timing retard with an MSD digital 6 on 92+ octane fuel. The bottle heater is a good idea other wise it is difficult to keep the bottle at 900psi, especially in the winter. Plan on buying some extra jets, the jets NOS supplied ran super rich. I think I ended up with a jetting 3-4 sizes smaller on the fuel to get a decent A/F ratio but start with the recommended ones. A purge valve is also nice, but be careful not to waste all then nitrous with it .

 

In other words, DONT BE A RlCE BOY! Heheh...



:sillylol:

 

cool thanks guys i guess im just gonna buy my exhaust while im getting my nos so im gonna be in the credit crunch for a while but it should be worth it!

 

I like to go 2 heat ranges cooler on the plugs when running 100hp or more spray on 350’s, but the last 305 that I had had that exact plug (2 steps cooler then the recommended for a 350) recommended for it from the factory.

If you’re going to run up to 100hp then I’d just stick with the stock plugs and just gap them down (below about .036”, I’ve gone as low as .024” on spray to make sure that things light off right). 100 and more I’d run 1 step cooler. Smaller gaps will allow you to light off the very dense mixture easier without drawing as much power. They also make cooler plugs run a little warmer in daily driving, keeping them from fouling.

I wouldn’t worry that much about the exhaust, things will work with or without it, just better with.

I would make sure you’re running a good ignition box, I would run a timing retard of sorts (triggered by the N2O system, so you can run normal timing the rest of the time), and a window switch.

I would also do the shift kit (transgo shift improver, something that actually fixes some of the weaknesses in the stock valve body, rather then some of the others which just make things feel better without actually fixing anything) since N2O tends to give you a massive torque spike at whatever point you turn it on which doesn’t play nice whith stock tranny’s. One of the reasons that the original owner of the last car that I bought parked it and then sold it was that he put a N2O kit on it and the tranny started slipping bad within 2 or 3 runs (fortunately, I knew how to fix that )

I’m betting that the 3.73’s feel nice but are making you run slower, it’s really too much gear for that car, more so when you start spraying. OTOH, they will take some of the strain off the tranny, which is good.

 

naw, 3.73's is perfect for that car

 

ok the hell with nos for now next week im ordering my full exhaust then after that 3.73 posi then heads and cam.

 

lol, good idea. I would atleast do the bolt on's before nitrous.