I Just thought I'd share this:
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=337635&page=4

 

Won't load for me

 

Here is another one:

http://www.myzero.com/gauges/afgauge.html

 

or u could jsut go to autozone/checker and get 1 for $15-20

 

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...air+fuel+gauge


cheapest one i see is $70.

some people just like to make stuff too... i think im going to make one...

why? cause its cheap, easy, and fun to build...

 

Oh yeah? I know the cheapest A/F guage of all!

GM put them in our cars, did you know that?

You know the diagnostic A and B Pins on the ALDL? well if you short those two while the motor is running the Check Engine light will flash real quick for a bit (OPEN LOOP)

when the motor hits CLOSED LOOP the Check Engine light will become and A/F Guage! it stays on for RICH and off for LEAN

I read that in a book, "Chevrolet Fuel Injection" by Ben Watson.
"How to Tune and Modify".

Its on Page 67 if you wana read it for yourself

 

Summit and Jegs all carry one thats about $35, but that is the cheapest I know of.

 

If your reading the stock NB sensor.. all your going to get is either rich or lean... but not by how much. Search for the output curve of a NB O2 and you'll see what I mean..

Only a WB O2 will show a exact AFR.

 

Or do what I did and get a sensor testor from sears, and voila you can plug it into your 02 sensor and read rich or lean, AND you've got a tool than can test most of the sensors on your engine. Saturn's right about the WB though.

 

this summit one is only $27.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=SUM%2DG2986

 

I've actually tuned cars with narrow band sensors then gone back to double check with the wide band.

It seems like you guys (single 02's) let in accurate readings from them but us LT1 and LS1 guys seem to read consistant.

All I know is I tune my car for 880mv and when I put it on the wide band it reads 12.8-13.0 :1 I tune the car now on the blwoer for 920mv and it comes out to be 11.8-12.0 on the wideband

I use a tech edge wideband BTW

I think im' gonig to get anthor one of these narrow band gauges just to watch for fuel pump failure, FMU failures etc... Its sort of a dummy light for boost.

 

I think Saturn is both right and wrong. He is right that WB sensors give a much more accurate reading over a larger range than a narrow band, but if you ask me it's kinda moot. NBs are accurate enough to tune by. They are accurate at/near stoich, which is where you wanna be 90+% of the time anyway. You wanna be richer at WOT, but so what if you're at 12.0 or 13.0 instead of the 12.5 the gauge reads, it's close enough. It also tells you when you're too lean or just dumping fuel, and thats all you need to know.

 

I beg to differ...

Big difference between knowing your @12.2 AFR and somewhere between 12.0 and 13.0.

The stock NB O2 is only designed to average a 14.7 AFR by being constantly toggled rich/lean. This is more due to the needs of the converter, than the actual needs of the engine.

Just a matter of preference..

 

You’re all right, or is that wrong?

A standard lambda sensor will not tell you what A/F you’re at anyplace besides a few 1/10s around 14.7:1. But if you test a car with a WBO2 and then compare it to the NBO2, you’ll find that there is a range that you can rely on for tuning, somewhat like an EGT. The number really doesn’t mean that much on it’s own, but if you figure out what it means for that car…

For example, like Rooster posted, it’s pretty well known that the LT1 cars run best in the high 800mV range, I’ve always shot for 890mV with good success.

 

I've always noticed my O2 sensor is very finicky about what goes through the exhaust. I had a valve cover baffle come off and my PCV sucked oil into the exhaust and i the car started running real "rich" all the sudden. turns out the oil caused the O2 to register rich. Are Widebands like that too?

BTW i ran it a while without oil and it returned to its former "Self", which was good enough for me to tell how close my tune was.