I've got -100% change in AFR vs. RPM and 0 % change in PE vs temp and its still goes way rich at 4500rpm

It goes so rich that the car doesn't want to pull anymore..

Is there anyway I can tone down my FMU by using a bleeder or orfice? Its currently a 10:1

 

On the dyno at outlaw we used a combo of four things to get cars tuned in just right on the dynojet with the wideband. The first was an injector that when used would have enough flow at high fuel pressure to supply (not a problem of yours), The correct ratio, a orafice restriction, and a bleed. Base fuel pressure can be important but needs to be set as a first thing or else it will change everything else too much. We would usually tune the base fuel pressure to show a good A/F without boost. Then as far as a bleed vortech sells one and ATI includes one for the top of the FMU. the orafices come in a variety of sizes and merely look like a little barbed union until you look inside and see the tiniest little hole drilled in a brass cup plug inserted into it. "HELP" brand parts has the red and the white ones (two different sizes). The white ones are actually included in the ATI TPI kit. Here is a picture of the bleed and the orafice on top of my FMU (its only hooked to a short line and is pulled from the referrence for photo purposes):

 

I got a restrictor today and no change. I'm ordering recalibration kit but I'll probally be with out it all week.

Can you go into detail on the bleed? I think the restrictor and bleed go hand and hand because P1 and P2 should be the same on either side of the restrictor.. its not a flowing system but if you crack the line on P2 it should bleed boost from the FMU.

What does the bleeder look like? Is it just a valve cracked open?

 

the bleeder is seen on top of my FMU in the picture above it is merely a little brass valve, and yes you barely crack them open.

 

Okay here goes...

How many turns does it take usually to lean a car out? I'm not looking for a definate answer but i'm afraid to try it until i get it on some fuel gauges.

Heres my setup, appears identical as yours.

Its about $6 dallors in parts.

 

hj

 

HOT DAM it WORKS!

Car runs great now, pulled to 6 before i realized what was going on.. now at least i'm within bounds of getting the computer tuned.

Thanks, and for all those who need it a boost bleeder isn't that hard to make. Just get you a vaccum restrictor and a needle valve.

 

glad it worked for ya rooster. Now yo have to be careful of not running enough especially on the big end because that is the more dangerous area where all the boost is being made but sometimes we cant tell they are running out of fuel. Some people have used a $28 air fuel ratio meter gauge hooked up to the stock O2 sensor which is just 'ok'. The stock O2 is not a exact instrument but its better than nothing. I personally am going to run a EGT like the big blower and turbo guys to fine tune my AF ratio. It also is not a exact science but for many years before the days of scientific grade WB O2 sensors this method was used even in indy car so I figure its got to be good enough for me.

 

Usually I get the car close with the narrow band sensor by the scan tool then double check it with the up the tail pipe wideband.


I appreciate the help.