Ok, i did some searching, and couldnt really find the answer i was looking for, so here it goes.

I have an 86 Trans Am, 305 TPI, AFPR, ###### Aerochamber, K&N filter, and some free mods. Anywho, i'm currently contemplating a 50 HP dry shot of nitrous. I was wondering if i could safely run this without too much further modding ( ie, ignition box, window switch, etc...). I was thinking about picking up the Holley TB with the nitrous passages built in, has anyone used this? Plus, would a wet kit be overkill for a 50 shot?

PS- the motor has a little more then 96k on it.

Thanks for the help!

 

You'll need fuel to compensate.. You can buy a FMU for nitrous, or just go wet..

-- Joe

 

if he puts it far enough down the air intake past the Maf he wont need to. The ECM should make up for any additional fuel he may need...

 

buy the mustang kit # 05115 it works great up to 75 hp on unmodified cars

that TB is for LT-1's not TPI's

btw: that kit is the same if not more than nicer wet kits.

 

NO! PE is open loop. It runs off a preset table. It does not correct via the 02. The only correction is for knock, so it may retard the timing enough to get by. it will NOT add more fuel.

Please check your info next time you post a suggestion like that.

-- Joe

 

Stop giving advice like that we just had a rash of people with destroyed MAF's posting here for making just such a bad mistake, the wire is thinner than a hair it cannot handle the 800-900 psi blast of the nozzle against it.

or

go ahead and do it, all you need is a box full of $375 MAF's

 

i thought that the way the dry kits are designed to work is to spray nitrous BEFORE the MAF, and it more or less suddenly thinks its in antarctica and adds more fuel for the extremely cold, dense air.... is it the AIT sensor that reads the cold blast and adds more fuel? all i know is when i was shopping for a kit for my LT1 thats what i was told about all dry kits

either way dry kits suck, and i'd only go wet, with a wet kit in my opinion (yeah opinion) your safe going with a 150 shot (assuming your fuel pump is up to it)

 

Most dry kits come with something to boost the fuel pressure.

-- Joe

 

some very late GM, some imports and some ford guys do it, but the way it is done in the 5115 kit (ford kit that also works on GM's) The nozzle sees full bottle pressure and is regulated by a single jet, but it adds the extra fuel by regulating down some of the nitrous pressure to like 10 or 20 psi and putting its pressure against the fuel pressure regulator locking the return line closed. this cranks up the pressure to injectors, this is basically how a blower FMU works also. thats how the extra fuel gets in.

 

sorry about that post....

it was said pretty ignorantly cause after i read the past posts on dry nitrous i saw that itll just blow through the maf and **** it up... i came back to edit the post but i see you all already corrected me....

sorry again...

 

with all due respect,dry n2o systems were the most unengineered system on the market,wet is the best,safest check out www.nitrousexpress.com as far as the setting if you use a 50 shot on an american v-8 it will not be effective you need the minimum of 75......DRY sex is ok,kinda makes you feel like something is missing though...WET sex makes it right,puts that irrendessant glow on your face

 

yes definitely wet is the way to go, and its affordable and safer.

 

The IDEAL setup would be to run the fuel off the ECM (bpw multiplier) when N20 is kicked in. BUt otherwise, a wet setup works as long as you don't get any fuel puddling in the plenum.

-- Joe