quick ?, and i might make a fool outa myself for this.... but with the DS header merging with the pass turbo header like that what kinda pulse wave turbulence and exhaust restriction would that cause (if any) would occur?

 

Um, pink rods are just stock old style rods that have been magnafluxed.

For that matter, what a rod will hold up to has almost nothing to do with boost and a lot to do with rpm. Since RPM doesn't go up with boost it really shouldn't make a difference.

 

i have a few questions.

1. can this kit work on a 305tpi? i don't have the cash for the kit and a 350.

2. would i need to lower compression before i install the kit or can i do it after as long as i run on low boost?

thanx

 

So how many here have bought a kit of some sort or header? I bought a kit myself and was curious if their were others like.

 

any one have the system or have it installed yet? im interested in pictures.'

 

bnoon; this is the turbo kit for V belt

 

I recieved a partial kit from BBS yesterday,which I got from Ebay.It was the one running on his car.The turbo header is especially well made and looks bulletproof.Edgardo is a very genuine helpful guy with great communication.Considering where I live,it only took about 3-4 days for me to get it.Hasn't gone on the motor yet as I've still got quite a way to go getting parts.:hail: :hail: :hail:

 

Congrats.. take many photos and some video

 

I have the BBS turbo set up on my car and have been driving it for about a month now. I wish i had some pic of the finshed product, but i only have pics of the turbo on the car without the downpipe or intercooler piping. I'll try and barrow my freinds digital camera and post some pics.

 

here are some pics

 

heres another

 

heres the header w/turbo and wastegate

 

TurboedTPI, how quick dose your system spool up

looks good

 

It spools really fast. If you punch from a cruising speed it will be spooled by the time the trans downshifts. So there is barely any lag.

 

Damn, you gotta come down to Thirdgen Fest this memorial day. I'd love to turbo my TPI and want to see it in person before I start saving for the headers.

 

TurboTPI, how did you run your belt? Do you still have the Smog pump in place?


Thanks,

Ray

 

Nope, no smog pump. It wouldn't fit with the turbo right there. The belt setup on my car is pretty crazy, but it works fine. Cant really explain it. Theres no a/c or smog pump, so the passenger side of the pulley setup only uses the tensioner.

 

If you want to see it, you live about 5 min. from me. I live in Bensenville, right next to Elk Grove

 

Hi erictheviking and TurboedTPI,

TurboedTPI ask me about the dyno video and erictheviking owns the very same kit that kicked the 573 hp at the dyno, the questions is this; how the ___ I put the video on the internet? I tried to email it but I almost grew new beard waiting for the video to upload and it never did!

 

what turbine a/r is it?

thanks

 

It is a tang. 1.00a/r

 

Ok, i live up in PA and we now need to have emissions. For my county we have visual check. We need a cat, muffler, and any air injection parts "on the car". Is ther room to place this stuff to "make it work"? thx's

 

Non of the kits I offer provide space to keep the smog pump in its stock location. Relocation of the smog pump could be an option.

 

i too live in PA, what a bunch of... yeah! but anyways if you can make a turbo fit on a fbody with A/C im sure as hell going to try it and im definately going to get that kit from BBS if they dont abandon us thirdgenians! maybe they could make them on special order for such people since they have experience with it...

*eric*

 

I have a 305 as well...so would this work w/o going to a 350???

 

Anyone have pics of this installed on a aserpentine car(91) with the AC in place?

Looks like for sure the coolant bottle is getting a blanket like my TTA :-)


Someone done this with vortec heads yet? From what i can see of the pics and manifold design , it should clear easily....


Smog pump is already bye bye

later
Jeremy

 

Yeah where can yo get one of those coolant bottle blankets?

 

Hey I'm curious, where did you tap the oil lines for the oil supply and oil return lines? Did you have to drill holes in the oil pan?

 

BBS

do you still have that video of the dyno? IM still pretty interested in the kit for 91 serp equip and a/c. What type of computer tuning are you doing for this set up ? is it just a custom burnt prom or you going with a dfi setup ?

if you need to you can e-mail the vids or any updated piccets to me at

twolfe98@comcast.net



Thanks

-Tony

 

I have a minor question pertaining to the 450hp design. I have a modified 305. Its been rebuild with a brand new steel crankshaft,TRW forged pistons and GM Stage II forged Rods. While these arent exactly "Great Brands" Anyone happen to know if they'll suffice for the boost that the turbo will give? My compression is at an 9.5:1 and this seems a bit high so what are my alternatives? Would i have to get a different turbo than the one thats given in the kit? Lastly, where does the oil return line go? Will i have to tap my oil pan for supply?

thanks in advance.

 

Hi Guys,
The oil return port is in the oil pan, just 1" below the second bolt (from front to back) that attach the oil pan to the block. I dont tap, 'cause this will loosen metal chips that will fall inside the pan. I prefer punching a hole thru the pan with a pointed chisel large enough for a #10 bulkhead connector to fit thru. I ussually do this without removing completely the pan from the car. Just beware of not to hit the internals. I just loosen all the pan's bolts and the two engine mount bolts. With the engine lifted to the max (without damaging the distributor cap) and the oil pan loose, there is just enough space to put your hand inside and place the bulkeah connector form inside out tightening the nut in the outside of the pan. I use a lot of sealant to seal and to "glue" the nut. This method is risk free from parts falling inside the pan without notice. I for some reason the nut becomes loose you would be able to tighten it from the outside without removing anything. The bulkhead connector will have to be cut so that it woul look like the one in the picture.
The oil supply is from the port in the back of the engine block where the distributor is located. I will try to put some pics of that also.
The 62-1 turbo and the 60-1 hi fi turbos are very streetable and they both give very good performance.
The 87' GTA that I had with the single turbo setup had stock rods, stock crank, stock L98 block, forged TRW pistons with 8.5-1 CR, stock computer and MAF, 24 lbs injectors with 1:1 fuel regulator. All the trick was on the use of fuel solenoids and fuel foggers for injecting the extra fuel that the turbo demanded. They where activated by RPM's and I used a blue LED inside, near the gauges to indicate when they where activating. The RPM switch is a Summit's brand. For those interested in knowing how this works you can see the video clip
http://www.bbsdesigns.net/BBSDesign...ghtCruiseToDyno
I it is best to use a pressure switch rather than a RPM switch to activate the foggers, since the foggers will also activate when you down shift.

 

BBSDesigns, please check your E-mail. I sent you two E-mails about a modified setup. One a few weeks ago and one today. Please get back to me at your earliest convenience, as I'm definitely in for a full kit.

 

Picture of the oil return bulkhead in the oil pan.

 

Oil supply port without the factory oil pressure sender.

 

Oil supply for turbo with the factory oil pressure sender.

 

my only question with your oil return is, does that bulkhead sit above the oil level in the pan? i don't have a pan sitting here for reference.

 

Hi BigMike92Z,

Yes, is above the oil level. I havent had any problems in the installations I've done.

In the serpentine belt setup the oil is returned thru the valve cover on the passengers side. Installation is a breeze. I will most probably adopt this oil retutn method for the "V" belt setup as well, just have to check if the oil flows OK. I am also making a twin turbo setup for a client, that fit both serpentine belt and V belt F-body with A/C and oil return system. The oil return is going to be thru the valve covers. Just trying to keep it simple, no oil pan welding, punching, etc...

 

agree, i think for myself i would rather weld a fitting into the pan, but that's just personal preference. as long as the oil isn't backed up in any way by dumping it into the valve cover, than more power to you to do it that way.

 

If you have a few minutes you really should pull the dipstick on one to see where it actually is, you'd be surprised how low the oil level actually is in the pan.

Have you ever run one like that? I'd be surprised if it runs well like that since SBC heads are somewhat known for being slow to drain oil from the valvetrain back into the pan. I wouldn't be surprised if you ended up with a leaking valve cover or worse problems.

 

I used the mechanical fuel pump block off cover for my oil return. It worked perfect. The oil return goes straight down from the turbo. I just tapped a hole in the cover and put a barbed fitting in it. No problems with it yet.

 

I like that idea, seems a whole lot simpler.

 

Yea, that's what I'm doing. I think that Joby's friend is doing the same thing.

 

83 crosfire ta, what part of dc are you in? you should show up for a car show or two. what kit did you get?

 

Hi 83 Crossfire TA,
Yes, this a tested oil return setup. I have run a single turbo kit with this oil return system for about a year and half without any leakage thru the valve cover or a smoking turbo. The gasket used was a standard blue gasket bought at PepBoys, I think it was Fel-Pro brand. There where never any leaks or drain problems in that time up to the day I took off the kit from the car and sold it.

 

Hi vortech305,
Remember that the engine block has to have the drain hole in the cavity behind the fuel pump delete plate. Is the hole pointing downwards, if the block dosent have it, you will most probably have draining problems.

 

Hi TurboedTPI,
How are you boosting

Does you engine block has the drain hole behind the fuel pump delete plate?

 

I'm right on the Laurel/Burtonsville line. Where are you at? Which car shows? The only regular ones that I know of in the area are the Laurel one behind the Tastyfreeze, the Glen Bernie one (keeps moving… not sure where it's at now), and the Mt Airy one.

As far as my setup… it's not a kit, it's my own setup. Right now the car is ripped apart again…

That's good to know… surprising, but good to know. Seems like a good solution for twins, where packaging is enough work without figuring out how to run one more set of lines…

 

83 Crossfire TA,
Do you remember this picture? Take a look below the turbo you will notice a brass pipe pointing to the right, to the valve cover. It entered the valve cover from the side with a slight angle, but still worked perfectly.
I hope this give some ideas to people looking to return the oil from their turbos. And like you said; this is the way to go with Twins

 

oil draining back into the valve cover? Never heard of that one before. Sounds like something to try with an old set of covers.

 

Hi Tony,
The thing with the dyno video is that is to large in size. I will have to take maybe more than half an hour to an hour to upload it to the server, and without using the computer to speed it up. As soon is available I'll let you know.
Edgardo