BBSDesigns, this may be a bit off topic from this thread, but here goes. Is there any advantage to running the twin tubo setup? is there less lag or more boost created? I was just wondering because I plan on putting a turbo set up on my '86 Firebird with a 305 and was wondering which way to go. I plan on buying some books on Forced Induction, but with the heavy rain, I don't feel like venturing far.

 

By any chance to u have a dressed engine out of the car and have a shot or 2 of the plug wire routing on that oh so fun pass side?

Any complete kits or pics installed on 90-92 SD setups?

Got some shots of all the piping/routing on the pass side as well? curious about clearance with down pipe and manifold in place etc?

Just curious this whole thing keeps nawing at me and im almost ready to do it when my TTA engine is done

later
JEremy

 

Come on V-belt!

 

Hi bnoon,
I just found the old thread of the single turbo kit for v belt, you can read the information you need there.

 

In my car (pictured above) I have barely any lag. The lag it does have is a good thing cause it doesn't light the tires up rite away,but it still does. I have 8.25:1 comp. ratio, ported aluminum L98 heads(2.02,1.60 valves) tpis zz-9 cam, ported lower intake, tpis large tube runners, ported plenum, 32lb. injectors, aeromotive FMU, and a 52 mm. throttle body. The block is stock with a stock crank. I have GM powder rods. The 700 r4 trans has a tci rebuild kit with a tci 3200 lock up stall. With no intercooler and only 5 lbs. of boost, the car would spin through first and most of second gear.(i definatly need slicks) 50 mph to 100 mph seems like nothing. I have a big greddy intercooler ("28 by "12, "4thick) i am fabricating right now. Its mounted in the car but i need to make the piping. After that i will really start leaning on it.

 

Oh yeah, the turbo i have is a turbonetics 62-1. It has a q trim wheel, 1.00 a/r turbine housing, and it has a liquid cooled center section. The header i have is BBS's. I use a tial wastegate. I have a custom made mandrel bend 3 inch down pipe attached to a mandrel bent 3inch flowmaster catback with no cats. Its not all that loud either.

 

TurboedTPI

I was thinking on running the twin turbo setup on my car <B>without any mufflers at all</B>. you say that you are running without any cats, how loud is the noise? I am thinking on running each 3" downpipe thru each side of the car, but since this is a street driven car I am afraid I will get lot's of tickets.
I was on the track the other day(not drag, road race) and I fall in love with an Audi's RS6 V8 twin turbo exhausts notes(wish my road race CRX sounded like that). The high tone of the spinning turbine wheels and the engines tone just got into me. That's when I decided I would like the very same exhaust tones, or at least simmilar.
Please tell me if it's too loud.
Edgardo

 

My car is quiet until the wastegate opens because it vents to the atmosphere, not back into the exhaust. It sounds like it has open headers with the wastegate open but before its open is is not loud at all. Why you want a twin set up, it seems like it would be a tight fit under the hood.

 

I like this kit. BBSDesigns and TurboedTPI, what engine management systems are you guys using with your turbo setups? Are you using the stock GM ECMs or did you go to an aftermarket setup like DFI? Also, at 5 lbs of boost, can the kit be run with the stock ECM calibration on a completely stock motor until a new calibration can be made? Will any other modifications like bigger fuel injectors be needed? I noticed the red 88 Camaro that had the Turbo installed and it's got a completely stock motor.

 

I have the stock ecm, chip, map sensor, injectors, and fuel pump. I only have a boost sensing fuel pressure regulator. This is why I'm only running 5 lbs of boost. I have 32 lb injectors but havent put them in yet. But the cars drivability is great. I thought it wouldn't run right all stock, but it is like a factory turbo car. I'm not sure what will happen if i put the bigger injectors in with the stock chip. It'll will probubly be so rich it will barely run. I want to get a chip burner and a burner program to burn my own chips. Before i put the turbo on the car, it ran 13.5@105 on the stock chip. (look @ above post for engine mods) I didn't think that was too bad for a low compression naturally asperated motor.

 

When I had installed the single turbo kit(the one erictheviking now has) in the 87' GTA (now sold ) I run it with stock ECM and #24 Ford motorsports injectors and a 1:1 regulator. Extra fuel was delivered thru fuel foggers activated by rpm's switch and an indicating blue led inside the car near the gauges. Every time the foggers went ON the engine would go insane. I knew that this wasnt the safest way of running that much horsepower, but it worked OK.
What TurboedTPI saids is true the car behaves like is factory turbocharged, but the MAF has to be pressurized. In my first turbo setups I use to have the MAF in the turbos Inlet( non pressurized) and the car was giving me a hard time, everything was cured when I run the experiment of pressurizing the MAF.

Yes the red <B>83'</> Camaro ( the engine is from a 88' GTA, a swap operation was performed about two years ago)and has forged pistons, but everything else is completely stock. We are good friends, and I invited him to join the org so he can share his expirience with us.

 

When I had installed the single turbo kit(the one erictheviking now has) in the 87' GTA (now sold ) I run it with stock ECM and #24 Ford motorsports injectors and a 1:1 regulator. Extra fuel was delivered thru fuel foggers activated by rpm's switch and an indicating blue led inside the car near the gauges. Every time the foggers went ON the engine would go insane. I knew that this wasnt the safest way of running that much horsepower, but it worked OK.
What TurboedTPI saids is true the car behaves like is factory turbocharged, but the MAF has to be pressurized. In my first turbo setups I use to have the MAF in the turbos Inlet( non pressurized) and the car was giving me a hard time, everything was cured when I run the experiment of pressurizing the MAF.

Fred91GTA, actually is a <B>83'</B> Camaro ( the engine is from a 88' GTA, a swap operation was performed about two years ago)and has forged pistons, but everything else is completely stock. We are good friends, and I invited him to join the org so he can share his expirience with us.

Here are some pics of the serpentine setup on the engine.

 

Hi TurboedTPI,
About the twin turbo setup, I use to have one installed in my 87' GTA sometime ago, it was different than the one I am now fabricating. This newer design is much much better. The twin turbo headers are a real piece work, but now that I sold the 87' GTA and the single turbo kit to erictheviking, I have my 89' GTA and no turbo, so I decided I will keep one twin turbo kit for me I was planning on building a Quad turbo system for my 89' GTA, but had a real hard time finding the turbos. Since I was planning on mass fabricate the quad turbo system, the turbos needed to be an easy to find part, so for now the project has stoped.

There is a picture of the setup being installed, everything fits on nicely, but I am planning on rebuild the engine completely before I install the twins.

About the injectors swap I just wanted to share my story of why I ended with a Holley Stealth Ram intake. I use to love my TPI unit with stock injectors until one day I received the #55 punders I ordered and decided to change the stcok injectors and sell them, well they didnt work propperly. TOO BIG. I tried with all kind of fuel pressures until I gave up the #55 and decided to go with smaller Vortech #38 injectors. For some reason this injectors where even more problematic, so sell them and got a set of new Accel's #26 injectors. Thinking that all my problems where gone I performed the operation of removing the runners and plenum for the 3rd time in 1 1/2 month, to find out that for some super strange reason the car wont even start with those injectors. So I removed the Accel's #26 injectors and do a little research in the internet and found out that almost everyone with TPI's that changed injectors upgrade to Ford Motorsports #24. Since all I wanted was to use my car again with no problems, I bought the damn injectors. I was mentally decided not remove the TPI runners and plenum ever again, so I bought the stealth and installed the injectors by just removing 4 bolts, and Edgardo lived happily ever after.

 

heh… yea… injector swaps suck on a TPI. I got used to doing it on an LT1 (2 quick connect fuel lines and 4 bolts and they're out), and then going back to TPI I looked at it, looked at it again… You’ve got to be kidding…

 

Hi 83 Crossfire TA,

You seem to be a very fair and knowledgeable person and I would like your opinion if you please. I have a set of new Eagle H beam forged 5.7 rods, new ZZ4 forged crankshaft, new Eagle billet four bolt main splayed caps(to convert non 4 bolt blocks to 4 bolt) and a set of new ARP main studs for 4 bolt mains. The rotating assembly is still un-balanced. The question is as follows; I dont know(or trust) a machine shop here to perform the 4 bolt conversion on a non 4 bolt block. I would like the engine that I am building to be a 4 bolt since I would like to run very high hp numbers. I have been told that stock chevy blocks are good up to 650hp, but you and I know that more than that can be achieved without the block exploding into pieces. Do you think that since I dont trust anyone in here to do the 4 bolt conversion I should go with billet 2 bolt main caps, ARP studs and honning, and forget about the 4 bolt conversion? Sell the parts that I have and get a short block(one piece rear seal, roller cam, 4 bolt mains, all forged and balanced) and maybe evenly priced of what I am going to spend in balancing what I have with new pistons and mahining? I just want an opinion, I have these parts and I just want to assemble a new engine soon for the new setup. Who sells trusty short blocks there in the states with the specs I want?
Thank you,
Edgardo


PS; about the injector removal on the TPI, same feeling here.

 

BBS, I have heard that a two bolt main block converted to 4 bolt main is actually stronger than a stock 4 bolt main block. The short block you described above is exactly that i want to do. (eagle h-beam rods, gm forged crank, and billet 4 bolt splayed conversion caps) Should be good for at least 650 h.p.

 

Hi TurboedTPI

Who is going to perform the machining for you? Are they a <b>GOOD</B> machine shop? Can you ask them how much is for a bare 350 block with billet 4 bolt splayed caps and align honning? I'll supply the caps and studs, I just need the block and the good machinning. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Could you believe that the last person I asked about doing the conversion told me that he grinded the block by hand to fit the caps Then I asked how many times he had performed the conversion and he told me that, that was the only one, no sh_t! The funny part is that he was recomemended to me

Is there any bowtie block with one piece rear main seal?

 

BBS, the place where my motor will be build is AES. Any one from the chicago land area would know of them. There are really good from what i here. I'll try and find out about a block. They said that if you buy some parts from them they will give a good discount on machining, so if you get a block from them it would be better. I'll let you know.

 

Hi everyone. My car it is the camaro on the picture. And I just wanna say that I'm preatty happy with the kit(except for the dent on my right side fender) But I'll have to deal with that since we are friends. I just want to introduce my self.

 

Hi, do you guys have anymore pictures of thise kit installed on an L98 engine? Like a straight on front shot, an underneath shot and a side shot like the pictures of the Turbo kit with the V-belt system? I'm really interested in picking one of these badboys up.

 

Hi JekyllandHyde,
I have to let you know that the single turbo serpentine belt kit is most probably going to be discontinued. I will just keep the jigs for making the turbo header only for the occational buyer, but no complete kits anymore.

The reason for this is because it is going to be replaced by a new street/strip twin turbo kit that allows complete use of accessories including A/C and smog pump in both the serpentine belt and the V belt type cars without any modifications. The only thing needed is relocating the heater valves and smog solenoids on top of the passengers valve cover. It fits 305ci engines up to 355ci and utilizes two TBO3 Garrett turbos with internal Inconel wastegate valves and actuators capable of 35 lbs/min flow each. The kit includes both turbos, turbo headers (not log type), down pipes, chrome valve covers with oil return port(no need for oil pan removal/drilling/welding), oil feed lines and all bolts and nuts.
As soon I have pictures I will be posting them on the site.

 

Now you have my attention...
This is my first post in a few years because I sold my old IROC, but I've had my current IROC since last October so I've been visiting the site a lot again lately.
Anyway, I've been keeping up with all of your turbo kit threads, this one sounds great. If it is as you say, I'm highly interested. Definately keep us up to date with information and pics. Thanks.
Steven

 

how much rwhp would you say the single serpentine kit should make @ 5psi. will it be ok to run cast pistons? i will probably be replacing my 305 with a goodwrench motor. will this motor last with the turbo on it. im not looking to make 500 hp or anything. also, will the added powerdestryo my 100k+ mile tranny? im not going to be racing it or anything. i would just like to add dome kind of power adder, and if i can get a turbo kit for less then a s/c kit,well...i think that is a pretty obvious decision. i already have a turbo 6, i wonder what a turbo 8 feels like...

thanks

-jeff

 

Hi iamjeff,

The rwhp gained will depend on what mods, etc... you have on your engine. If you are going to run at 5psi I can almost guarantee that it will live for a very long time with some good tunning. If your tranny is already weak, it will start getting weaker much more rapidly, if its in good shape it should hold on for quite some time. My old turbo 700 started to gave signs of death when I climbed the boost to 10. It was already old and abused and it already had some previous bad surgery before going turbo, so If its sick you know that it wont last long with turbo, even less at medium to high boost. Cast pistons should run OK at that boost level. If you get a good timing and the extra fuel enrichment it should work very good. I had run turbo with cast pistons at up to 15psi, but is good to have the timming set and extra fuel to avoid detonation which could destroy cast pistons at high boost very rapidly. That's why people change to forged pistons, because of the extra abuse they can take in case of detonation.

 

i luv the way your kits look and i was wondering exactally what kind of motor i should build to handle the boost. for example how about a zz4 short bolck. or would i be better off with a regular rotaing assembly and forged pistons. i know 4bolt mains would be needed at the least. i would like the motor to last a long time and make around 500hp. i would probally stick with a stock set of L98 heads and for now a stock tpi setup with a lager fuel pump and injectors b4 i can switch to a stealth ram setup i guess around 6-7psi of boost. i need to destroy my frineds 03' cobra w/ mods. any advice on what kind of short block i should build is appericated. my budget for the entire engine not including the turbo system is probally around $2500 what do u think?

 

actually after looking at their catalog how would the gm performance parts 350H.O. crate engine or goodwrench 350 long block(summit part numbers#nal-12486041 and #nal-10067353) the 350H.O. with the TPI vortech head intake manifold and some bigger injectors and a good ECU tune should be a nice setup for 6-7psi of turbo boost and 500+HP no??? by the way ur talk b4 about the MAF my car is a 92 speed density car. have u ever worked with the SD setup comared to MAF?